engine break-in (not Ferrari, but old Lampredi Twin-Cam)

I can't answer any of your questions, but don't suppose you want to tell us how hard the engine swap is (had 3 X/19's in my teens and have been hankering for another one, but this time without rust and with more power)

Thanks

 

Keep it below 3,000 RPM for the first 500 miles - if you can bear it. Don’t run it at the same RPM for a long period of time, such as on the highway. DON’T LUG IT!! High RPM is better than lugging. After 500 miles and a torque wrench on the head bolts gradually increase the RPM. After 1,500 miles do anything you want.
I hope it has a lot more power than the showroom floor X/19. I remember leaving a San Francisco dinner party in ‘78 and getting a lift in an X/19. With a cold engine it couldn’t get up the hill! I berated the driver as being a real plonker so he got out and gave me the captain’s chair. I couldn’t get it up the hill either! It stalled no matter how many inches of clutch we burnt! We were laughing so hard the men in the white coats were starting to draw near. In desperation, and with a nonexistent reputation on the line I did a three point and reversed up the hill to the owner’s great amusement. Since then he has referred to me as not only a backward child but a backward adult. Where was your engine when I needed it??

 

Just a thought ... you might wish to "GOOGLE" your question about breaking in an engine.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Is one site that you might find some useful information at.

You might check some of the Ferrari manuals for break-in procedures (246gt for one) you may find some interesting information there that will help you make up your mind as to the best way to break-in your engine.

Best wishes

 

Oops, my mistake ...

Best wishes

 

Ash,

I'd relax and just take it easy for the first 500 (if that) and then nail her.

My race engines (yep not complicated Ferrari engines but fully race prepared Alfa club racing engines. 12:1 compression ratios, etc.) were run in for only minutes on the dyno (ie. until oil in the exhaust gas reduced) and then they were WOT for load runs. This did not hurt them one bit.

When we pulled them apart of did any maintenance (like checking clearances, etc.) everything was always perfect.

I even once tried to run one in by driving to the track (a 6 hour drive) and I only got 1/2 an hour in to the drive before I accidentally ( ) hit the rev limiter ... no damage and engine was a beaut!

Running in engines is an old school practice that really goes back to the hand scraped white metal bearings ... which had to bed in to get the final clearances right, etc.

Nowadays all that you are really worried about is ensuring the rings bed correctly ... and going too slow can cause problems.

The important thing is that first oil change ... as you might drain out some swaft from the machining that was missed.


If you lived in New Zealand I would give you one of my sisters phone numbers as I always thought she would be the perfect person to run in any road car engines ... why?, cause she never ever labours an engine and also never nails them hard ... always happily some where in the sweat spot. One of the most engine sympathic drivers I have ever had the pleasure of sitting beside (in a car) ... I guess growing up with a mechanic father has ensured this; while I am more inclined to hammer the engine

Pete
ps: How many brand new modern Ferraris do you really think get properly run in? ... I say less than 5% ... I'd say within 5 minutes of leaving the dealership they have been red lined .

 

Please make sure you atleast do a mixture check, before running her too much ... I've melted pistons in the past because of waiting for the dyno run ... $$$$$

Pete