This may only apply to the early 348s with the rear-mounted batteries. Two questions: Does anyone have a source for just these quick-disconnect connectors? Does anyone know how to remove the connector ends without damaging them? There seems to be locking tabs but I'm not sure how they work. Pushing in both tabs concurrently doesn't unlock anything to allow removal of the cable. . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Meh! Just get rid of the damn thing all together. Mine busted like that yeeeears ago. I replaced it with a solid cable. Never looked back.
Yes, that's what I'm doing as a temp fix with a daisy chain since the original goes from battery to frame to motor. Still, I really like and prefer the QD functionality.
Wade, does your car have a battery cutoff switch? I'm curious as to how the power delivery system varies from mine.
No cut off switch, neither did my previous (90 ts). I was under the impression that only the front mounted batteries had the cut off switch. But I know what you're talking about, both my Mondials had the cut off switch next to the battery.
My '91 has one but it could have been added later-- the car has a number of factory updates installed. I'll try to get a pic for you.
Have a 91 TB, no cut off switch. I also need the QD function as I have some electrical Vampire draw on my battery, most likely after market alarm system. Battery will be dead after about a week if I don't disconnect. Should just get rid of the old alarm system.
My 91 TB (UK spec) does not have battery cut-off switch either. As I understand it, the QD-s are there to save time during the engine out service, not really for battery disconnection when parked. Otherwise, they are weak points that can cause trouble. I have removed them and installed direct cables. For battery disconnection, I have installed Intellitec 100 Amp remotely controlled latching relay/solenoid on the two red wires that go to the positive battery terminal - cutting power supply to everything but leaving the (thick) lines to the starter motor and the alternator which you don't need to isolate to prevent battery drain (unless your alternator is faulty). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those stock connectors cracked on mine as well. Rather than replacing the connectors take a look at this solution. You can replace the cable but put a much better solid connection in line. https://www.arc-zone.com/dinse-cable-connector-ldc-70-black?gclid=CJuTm67YsdECFcSEswodNx0HPw
Yes, thanks. I was looking at those and these rectangular ones as well (very similar to Mondial QDs). . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
