This is the best explanation I've seen so far of how to set the monitors An explanation of each step is provided below. Total drive cycle time is 12 minutes. NOTE: Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the oxygen sensor (O2S) heater monitor may not run. Step 1: Cold Start — The ECM determines the presence of a cold start by comparing the engine coolant temperature to the ambient air temperature during startup. The engine is considered cold when: • Engine coolant temperature is below 122°F. • Engine coolant and intake air temperatures are within 11°F of each other at startup. During this period, the O2S heater, misfire, AIR, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run. Step 2: Idle 2 1/2 Minutes — Turn the air conditioning (A/C) and headlights on to help the misfire monitor—the additional electrical loads help even out combustion pulses. During this period, the O2S heater, AIR, EVAP, misfire, and possibly fuel system (if operating in closed loop) monitors run. Step 3: Accelerate — Prior to accelerating, turn off the A/C and headlights (if you had them on during step 2). Open the throttle halfway until you reach 55 mph. During acceleration, the misfire, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run. Step 4: Steady State Cruise 3 Minutes — During this portion of the cycle, the O2S, AIR, EGR, EVAP, misfire, and fuel system monitors run. Step 5: Decelerate — Gradually coast down to 20 mph without applying the brakes. Also, on manual transmission vehicles, remain in high gear and do not press the clutch. During this period, the EGR, EVAP, and fuel system monitors run. Step 6: Accelerate—Apply ¾ throttle until reaching 60 MPH. During acceleration, the misfire, fuel system, and EVAP monitors run. Step 7: Steady State Cruise 5 Minutes — During this period, the CAT, O2S, AIR, EGR, EVAP, misfire, and fuel system monitors run. Step 8: Decelerate — Gradually coast down to 0 mph without applying the brakes. Also, on manual transmission vehicles, remain in high gear and do not press the clutch. During this portion of the Drive Cycle, the EGR, EVAP, and fuel system monitors run. NOTE: If the CAT is marginal and the battery was disconnected prior to the drive cycle, it may take up to five separate drive cycles in order to determine the state of the catalytic converter.
Just to be sure, above is for Motronic 5.2 only? Not the older 2.7 which has no drive cycle wizardry?
Yes, I believe so but please note, no drive cycle is necessary to set the Secondary Air Injection, that monitor can be set without moving a foot! One of the things that make me believe the above procedure is proper is that I found my SAI pump ran for exactly 2 minutes and 35 seconds every time I checked it with a stop watch and this coincided with the change from open loop to closed loop.
Hello Mitchel, after doing a full major on my '03 456M GTA, SAI still does not close. 4 new O2 sensors, new coolant and new intake air sensor. I can read the voltage on the 4 O2 sensors but do not understand what the voltage means or what it needs to be. In engine off state they are all 435mV. My gutfeel is, with all new parts and ECU's that actually work, that the O2 sensor test when O2 is injected, does not work. Do you know what those correct values should be and what to look for when O2 is actually injected in the exhaust to test? Thanks!
What is a full major on a 456? If you have driven several drive cycles and the SAI does not reset, then something is wrong with the hardware. On a 2003 system, you can use a good scanner to activate the Secondary air system to check things. Forget the O2 sensor signals for now. So, plug in the scanner, activate the secondar air pump, and check. 1) if the pump is running, 2) if air is coming out of the pump 3) if air is being pumped into the exhaust headers. One of the three questions above will be a "no" then it is a matter of trouble shooting to see why that is not happening.
A full major is a major service: timingbelt, pump, etc. At the same time replaces all hoses and sensors. Sorry for not being clear on this. As for the pump, I hear it when I cold start, it runs for 2min35sec and then turns off. I blows air out of the pump. I am unclear how to check if air is being pumped in the exhaust headers. My thinking was that if air is being pumped into them, I should see voltage changes on the O2 sensors. I am actually unclear if that is a change up or down. I do see the 2 rear sensors going up over 800mV and then suddenly drop to 300mV. I just assume air is being pumped in the exhaust, I am just not sure. Thoughts? Menko
I'm answering your question of what O2 voltage to see when the air pump is on. I am not suggesting that your SAI is working correctly if this is reading that way. During normal operation, when excess air is pumped into the exhaust stream, there will be more Oxygen in the exhaust than before. The O2 sensor will read a "lean" condition (or too much oxygen) and the front O2 sensor should read closer to 100mV. Whether the front O2 sensors read lean or rich during normal operation, the rear O2 sensors should stay relatively constant. Added to this whole mix is the fact that the smog system on some of these Ferrari/Maserati cars of this era had a real hard time with resetting the SAI monitor. Some of these had a recall to "relax" the parameters so that they can be set. The 360 models did not have this difficulty in the 2003-4 range. They all reset properly after a single drive cycle IF everything is working well. I am not sure if the 2003-4 456 models have this problem. Look at this system on your car: Activate the SAI pump, then check to see if there is air coming out of pipes 8 and 9. If yes, then remove the check valves number 5 to see if you can blow air in the correct direction. There have been more than once those valves are bad on Ferraris. Paul Chua (@paulchua ) also a 456 owner had a bad SAI pump as well. These are now 20 years old and all their components break. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Mitch, thanks much for clarifying drawing, I just have the one from the workshop manual, without the detailed numbers that you have. I did disconnect the hoses on both sides and started the pump. Both of them have an equal significant airflow (see picture). So the pump works. I checked the check valves. They were difficult to remove so I ended up putting a hose on them, opening the exhaust sampling openings and blow air through them. All 4 worked. Sofar the system until here works. Do you have any further guidance for me? Much appreciated in advance! Menko Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You have done all you can to ensure that the SAI system actually works. All you can do now is to follow a proper drive cycle for a 456 to get the system to reset to ready. Don't cut off the battery. Start when engine is stone cold, colder than 70F. Fire the car, let it idle for 5 minutes untouched. Drive the car in 3rd gear at 2500 - 3000 rpm for 4-5 miles, as steady as you can, do not rev it higher, or sudden stop. This is a hard thing to do without a good 4 miles of empty road. Accelerate the car to 4000 RPM, and let it drop back down in gear to idle, drop it into neutral, pull over and let the car idle for five minutes. Then turn the car off for 15 seconds. Start the car again, drive it normally like a grandma on a freeway at about 55-65 mph in a high gear. Drive for 10 minutes. Get off the freeway, pull over, let the car idle, check the monitors with a good OBD2 scanner to see if the monitors are set.
Thanks Mitch, no better time to do that than tomorrow morning early at 6AM. Should be nobody on the road. I have an Actron Autoscanner Plus that, as far as I can see, sees most of the important parameters on the 456. All monitors other than SAI and EVAP are set, so it is just those 2. I will follow your cycle and let you know. Thanks for the help sofar. Let me ask you a different question. What is your view on previous posts in this thread where it is said that the SAI monitor does not need a drive cycle but clears stationary after two cold starts, a day apart, conditional to the difference in temperature between the coolant and intake air is <11F? Sorry for asking, but I am still a bit confused with all different ways (Ferrari dealer gave me a complete different drivecycle) to set the SAI monitor.
The drive cycles are specific to each make of cars, and then sometimes specific to models in the same makes. The one I gave you is for the Ferrari V8 of that era. it does absolutely set everything with just one cycle on the V8s if all systems are operational. The Maseratis V8 that are based on the same Ferrari block actually does it differently and it does take several days of cold starts (I think 3 or 5) to get the SAI to set. The Ferrari V12 of the same era are much more picky with the SAI and I have no ideas if those cycles are exactly the same as the 360 of the same year. I saw that the 456 has narrow band O2 sensors front and back, which means ... it is possible to plug them in backwards and that will never work for smog monitors. More than one of us have made that mistake. The statement you made about observing "rear O2 sensors" voltage dropping 400mV is a bit of a clue. Lastly, the narrow band precat O2 sensors should absolutely change their values when the car is running, and the SAI pump is activated. If you don't see that, something is wrong. I also don't know why your Evap monitor is not set, yet. There is a clue in there somewhere. You should look at and post your long term and short term fuel trim values. Drive the car around, activate the SAI airpump while monitoring the Precat O2 sensors voltages. They should drop to lean values.
Quick update on what I did over the last 3 days: - checked upstream narrow band O2 sensors. They do drop to lean values (<200mV) when SAI pump is activated. When SApump stopped they increase to rich value (>800mV) - did 3 coldstarts early morning, with ambient T <<70F and airintake and coolant within 11F. Idle for ~ 4minutes (SA pump works and stops after 2.5min) - did 3 drivecycles as discribed earlier by Dave. - Tried above 8cylinder drivecycle on 2 afternoons as well. SAI monitor still not set. Car drives like a dream though. This is killing me. Anybody any other suggestion for me to try?
This is from SF Motorsports, a poster on this site. www.sfmotorsports.com/blogdetails?id=5477 you should contact them. I think they are in Marin county. Or you want to find a software guy to mess with that monitor. PM sent
