Does the oil leak dye process really work? | FerrariChat
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Does the oil leak dye process really work?

Discussion in '308/328' started by chairpilot, Jul 19, 2008.

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  1. chairpilot

    chairpilot Formula 3

    Mar 3, 2007
    1,547
    LA, CA & Olympia, WA
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    PlateClipGuys
    #1 chairpilot, Jul 19, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2008
    I just purchased a dye kit to use in determining my engine & trans oil leak source.
    Has anyone done this process with any success? I plan to do the engine first, then the trans if I do not get a reading (I suspect the engine).
    If I do the engine oil first, find a leak, fix it, then change the oil before moving on to check/dye the trans oil, will any residual dye remain in the engine and give me a continued reading there if it continues to leak?
    Are there different color oil dyes available to separate the eng & trans sources?
    Are there any tips I should be aware of, beyond the kit's instructions that is?

    Thanks,

    Bob R.
     
  2. gil308

    gil308 Formula 3

    Jun 22, 2004
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    Charleston, SC
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    Gil
    #2 gil308, Jul 19, 2008
    My mechanic used the dye process to find a transmission leak in my Jeep...found it! He offered to do the same for the oil leak, but I know exactly where it's leaking from...the rear main seal I replaced in order to save a couple bucks :(

    I think the process works, make sure you have the right colored glasses and light and you should be ok.
     
  3. Ferrari328GT

    Ferrari328GT Karting

    Jan 6, 2008
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    Phoenix, Arizona
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    Steve
    #3 Ferrari328GT, Jul 19, 2008
    Yes, the dye job works GREAT. (Tracerline #TP1121). The dye used for engine oil and transmission oil is the same. If you fix all the engine leaks, then change the oil, it'll take the dye with it. Then you can do the trans. This is a terrific product. You'll find, however, that all gaskets turn green, even if they're not leaking. They seem to absorb some dye anyway. Look for the green dribbles, that's where you'll find leaks. -Steve
     
  4. chairpilot

    chairpilot Formula 3

    Mar 3, 2007
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    #4 chairpilot, Jul 19, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2008
    WOW!! This is good news Steve. Thanks. The dye kit I got was the exact same one from Tracerline too!!! Nice case to keep it all in!
     
  5. RVIDRCI

    RVIDRCI Formula 3

    Dec 1, 2005
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    Luigi
    #5 RVIDRCI, Jul 19, 2008
    Bob,

    Did your kit come with a UV penlite ? If so, your golden. I traced a really impossible to pin down oil leak that way.

    Tips from the been there done that file.

    A) Minimize ambiant light (a dark garage is best, just don't narc-out on the exhaust CO, short runs with the engine running and the door down)

    B) clean, clean , and then clean some more (CRC QD electrical contact cleaner final rinse down is the bomb, but it is flammable so don't be the BOMB !)

    C) If you don't find the source before it gets all over the engine, It's gonna be a glowing mess of confusion, the QD spray and little rags on a flexible parts retreiver get the nooks and crannys clean of the glow-juice, then start over.

    D) It really helped me to have the rear tires and inner wells out, and the car up high enough to really see up under stuff.

    Where do you "think" your leaks are coming from ? Where does the oil accumulate ?
     
  6. chairpilot

    chairpilot Formula 3

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    #6 chairpilot, Jul 19, 2008
    HI Lou!!

    Yes, I got the light and some special glasses with the kit. Wheels and wells are off. Some alum shields too. Rear end is raised on stands. Near as I can tell the leaking is below the lower cam cover edges.

    Generally, the Pass side (timing belt covers and all) and the upper part of the engine is dry and clean, except around the diff case. The driver's side rubber dist covers and below are coated. The entire bottom is a mess (big surprise, right!).
    I've got a few gal of simple green, spray brake cleaner, brushes, latex gloves, goggles, long sleeve sweats, etc....I'm ready to dive in!!!!

    Bob
     
  7. RVIDRCI

    RVIDRCI Formula 3

    Dec 1, 2005
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    Luigi
    #7 RVIDRCI, Jul 20, 2008
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2008
    Take my advice on that QD spray cleaner, it really is an indispensable tool, especially around the dizzys and top end, won't melt paint,silicone wires or plastic, but it blows any oil or grease away like magic, it's just expensive.

    My "guess" on your leaks : cam cover gaskets @ the cam seal o-ring interface, they need to be trimmed carefully so as not to cut the o ring when torqued down and expanded. Also, RTV needs to be applied correctly in that area, its a common leak and a mistake made by DIY and less experienced mechanics (or people who don't read Fchat tech threads !!;-)

    The other place may be distributor gaskets and or seals, those seals are super easy to damage if not assembled with care and finnesse (the lip of the seal can be folded in and the circular spring dislodged if the proper assembly proceedure is not followed carefully). When I removed my dizzy's the first time, I found the previous mechanic had reused the torn gaskets and just glued everything back up with threebond, a real mess.

    I would also look carefully at the breather tubes and hoses for cracks, looseness, or even a blockage in the seperator/return line system.

    Good luck, now go get GREASY !!
     

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