No worries, I'll try to figure it out. Seems like the other folks in the thread didn't run into much trouble and were able to follow your DIY instructions without problems. So I must be missing something.
Success! I was able to finally figure out the connector. Basically for the pre-cat O2 sensors, the electrical connector is secured to the car via a sleeve. You must move the connector assembly in the upward direction to release it from the sleeve. For me, the right side O2 sensor wire was a bit tight, so the tension made it harder to release the connector than the left. Once free from the small metal rail, you can move the connector out in the open for a better view of how the O2 sensor is mated to the car connection. The attached photo shows the car-side connector. To release the O2 sensor, pull the gray clip outwards. Thanks for the help everyone, the rest of the replacement process was more or less what the PDF shows. A few notes: - You may want a breaker bar that matches the O2 sensor removal tool drive size. My breaker bar is 1/2" drive and the tool was 3/8" drive, so I had to get an adapter and the extra distance made it hard to maneuver. Alternatively maybe get a universal joint type connection to get more freedom. - If you are short and have short arms like me, be prepared to lay across the rear fenders of the car to reach these components. Yes, you can do everything from the top of the engine bay, but it's a pain. I braced myself by holding onto the aluminium engine frame, so basically it was one-armed push-up for the entire process.
Excellent! Glad to hear you got it figured out. Thanks for sharing additional info. [emoji106][emoji106] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Dan... I'm trying to follow your DIY instructions.. unfortunately the links to the Removal Tool is DEAD - I can figure out the rest of the links but that one looks like a key... PM? [email protected] This is a winter project so its not like I've got it torn down... Thx Walt
Hi Walt, Looks like the link no longer works. Sorry about that. Here you go: It's a 22mm Oxygen Sensor Removal Tool, 1/2" Drive. It has a slot for the oxygen sensor wires. Here's one currently for sale at Amazon: 22mm 1/2" Drive Heated Oxygen Sensor Socket | ARES 70323 | Wire Gate Accesses Sensor from the Side, Preventing Damage to Wires. Direct link below. https://smile.amazon.com/Heated-Oxygen-Sensor-Accesses-Preventing/dp/B073WHFBVZ/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1515120979&sr=1-10&keywords=oxygen+sensor+socket+22mm Hope that helps. Dan
When installing my extenders, it was a pain for a simple job. Getting the connector unplugged and the wire routing. Then it was easy. From memory there were wire clamps hidden by the air boxes too.
Just a few points worth raising... Some people many not even know they have reduced or degraded engine performance but it can be caused by old o2 sensors. Why? Well o2 sensors as they age get slower respond. They may still be within programmed tolerances before a CEL is illuminated too. If your primary o2 sensors are aged and never replaced it will be reducing performance of your engine as they are used to trim fuel and precisely adapt to Lambda requests (programmed air fuel ratio targets. At the age the 360 is now I would expect coil packs, plugs and o2 sensors to all be done or the performance will be degraded. Secondary o2 sensors post cat aren't so important on 360 as they are only used to measure catalytic performance and decide if the cats are working efficiently. In fact those limits can be reprogrammed by my Ferrari SAK tool or you can disable the secondary o2 sensors completely and fit bungs, again using SAK tool.
Thank you for the info. I love coming to this forum and getting info from you guys with such a high level of knowledge and experience. Just so you guys know how appreciated you are!!!! Kevin
The oxygen sensor tool is available directly from ARES (#70329) for $10.80 including postage https://www.arestool.com/70039-oxygen-sensor-offset-puller
Old thread here but wanted to ask a question about this if anyone is still around. I have a '01 euro car with a P0432 code and since I don't get a slow down light and the cats visually look fine, I am thinking it is worth a shot to replace the post cat lambda/o2 sensors. It seems likely to me that the sensor would fail before the catalytic converter itself. Question would be - should I replace the pre-cat sensors as well while I am in there working on it or just do both rears and do the fronts later? I have the shop manual for the 360 and combined with this guide, it looks pretty straightforward so I am going to DIY this and then clear codes and see if it fixes the problem.
When was the last time they were charged. If its been awhile I definitely would do all. Its cheap insurance
They look original to me. No record of them ever having been changed. Given that the tires were 10 years old when I bought it, I would be surprised if the previous owner would have changed o2 sensors if you get what I mean.
I just changes my fronts about 2 weeks ago. only suggestion is to spray PB Blaster and let soak overnight. Also get the Oxygen sensor tool, makes the work so much easier. probably 30 minutes for both.
Mine easily unsrewed, both the front and back. Interesting to read people needed breaker bars, etc. Mine weere easy. Replaced fronts at 44,000 miles. Rears still going at 46,000 but I did add extenders a few thousand ago.