Disconnect master battery switch for winter storage?

Leave switch on.. keep CTEK on..your fine.

 

Same. Leaving the battery switched on will also stop the siren battery from being discharged. My immobiliser guru says that's bad.

Just make sure you don't leave the doors open or interior lights turned on.

I check my CTEK weekly to make sure it's still ok.

 

This ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


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i turn the batteries off on the cars that have switches if im not going to be at the house. why risk a fire.

 

Owners manual suggests off and continues that the basic relearn is only 10 seconds so hardly an arduous process

 

I stored mine in a location away from home, and I did disconnect the battery and took it away. It was a new AGM H6 battery, but boy was it heavy. 50 LBS. I will buy and install a new Antigravity when time comes to move it in spring..

I need to mention that I have no power at that location, hence my decision... Had I had power, I would probably leave the ctek and battery on....

 

I plug in the CTEk and let it be.

 

Based on recent experience, When I disconnected the switch and no Ctek, it discharged itself in about a week, therefore Ii now leave it on the CTEK all the time during storage and master switch on. YMMV. I have no idea where the discharge was, probably aftermarket stereo.

 

I leave the battery switch on and the Ctek on winter mode all winter. The car is in unheated storage so will drop to -35* at some point during the winter yet the Spring start-up will be no problem.

 

I strongly agree. You can get an adapter made by the company and plug into you cigarette lighter.

 

Why the cigarette lighter? Just wondering
Thanks.

 

I would not do it. Don't trust that wiring to the cigarette lighter. I saw it and it's flimsy... each it's own.

 

Why not trust the wiring? Done it on all my cars with a cigarette lighter. Beats having to get past the passenger foot well and make a pug tale.

 

Not sure if this applies to all F430s but my Cig lighter plug is cut off from the battery when the ignition if off. If that is your case, its a non starter for a cig lighter charging port.

 

There may be some variations. The Scud wiring diagrams have diagrams for both a power socket and a cigarette lighter (The Scud owners manual doesn't show a cigarette lighter, however). The Scud diagrams show the cigarette lighter powered by the battery via fuse PDF9. The power socket appears to be ignition controlled and powered via fuse PSF24.

The 430 WSM also mentions both a power socket and a cigarette lighter.

 

IDK but my cig lighter socket may have been removed by a prior installation of a control panel for my front/rear cameras., and what is left is actually the power socket. I keep a plug in voltmeter in it for battery starting /cranking voltage monitoring etc, but it is cold with the ign off. Nevertheless, as you mention, it would have to be a live circuit with the ignition off in order to use it as a charging port.

 

Some cars are made to have the tender on the lighter socket (i.e. Porsche's branded Ctek uses the lighter socket), but the Ferrari isn't. I wouldn't trust doing it that way.

 

I didn't/don't have power in my storage unit(s) so on the cars that did/do have a factory battery off switch (my current 355 / past 360 and TR) I turned it off pretty much any time I wasn't sure the car would be driven soon - including but not limited to winter - never had an issue with any of them. If you have power then I think I would leave it on with the Tender (NOT trickle charger/charger) connected but some others on here may have different opinions.

Cheers

 

Cigarette lighter socket is not powered "on" when the ignition is off. That has been the case starting with the F360 forward. The F355 and back, the socket is always powered and you could charge through it.

 

There is no issue (other than the cig lighter socket is not powered with the ignition off, so this method won't work). Many brands of battery tenders come with a cigarette light adapter. Both the adapter and the cig lighter circuit are also fused for protection, and most battery tenders are running 1.5 to maybe 4 amps max, so not a huge electrical load.

 

One consideration to make with a Ctek, or any brand battery tender with a power button or "mode" switch: If there is a power loss or interruption, the tender will not begin charging again when the power is restored. I discovered this recently with my Griots Garage battery manager IV after we lost power for an afternoon. Four days later I noticed my battery tender was not displaying the green "full charge" light and was in standby mode with only the power light illuminated. I pressed the mode button to start the charging process and it resumed immediately. I also have a bluetooth battery monitor attached to my battery so I checked the status and it was down to about 85%. So 15% loss in just a few days. I now realize if you have frequent power interruptions, you might be better served with a battery tender that has simpler controls, like without a power "on" or "mode" button, that will simply start charging when power is restored after an interruption. Or, just be mindful and check charging status whenever you are in your garage.

My Granite Battery Saver does not have a power or mode switch, so it is "better" from the standpoint of a power interruption. Fortunately for me, I only have power interruptions about once a year. Twice is rare.

 

You either have something wired incorrectly or the battery was very discharged when you switched off.

If you have a properly charged battery and the OEM wiring system, the battery should last a very long time if the master switch is set to 'Off' (2 months+ with no issue).

If you're storing the car long term, shut the master switch off, remove the battery from the car, place battery on a tender.

 

That is all true and valid, but I have seen at least twice the battery socket overheating due to poor physical contact between the little plug at the back of the cigarette lighter under the socket, or the actual contact inside the lighter socket. My ctek has 4.3Amps, plenty to overheat that connection in case it runs at full steam.
I had to re-wire the lighter once, as the insulation of the wire brittle from being overheated... Do you want to risk charging your battery there? It's fine, do it. I won't.
All above was not on Ferrari's, but other cars. I used to own a workshop in another life, not for "exotic" cars

 

This comes back to not all cars being created equal. My Australian F355 cigarette lighter goes through the ignition key. It is not live.