Dino Saga 060423___Oil Cooler Mount | FerrariChat

Dino Saga 060423___Oil Cooler Mount

Discussion in 'Corbani's Corner' started by John Corbani, Apr 23, 2006.

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  1. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    #1 John Corbani, Apr 23, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dino Saga 060423___Oil Cooler Mount

    When you remove the AC compressor, how do you mount the oil cooler? Read on.

    The first time the engine had to come out, there was no way that any more than necessary would go back in. Definitely 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag. I had the book so knew how the European original was put together. US version had smog and air. Both fouled up access and performance. Smog air pump was disconnected when I bought the car. Still passed California tests. I left out all smog plumbing and plugged air injector spacers.

    Had no use for air in Santa Barbara so saw no reason to re-install compressor and clutch. Actually don’t see much reason for air in such a small car. You want ventilation, just open a window. What’s a little more noise? Air and radio are fine for cruising down town. I don’t cruise down town. 80+ on the freeway is where the car really likes to be. Me too.

    Ordered a used cam cap from GT Car Parts and took some measurements of the mount and the compressor holes that held the oil cooler. Compressor was hung off front head with 2 humungous bolts and the cam cap studs. Bolts were plenty to hold the cooler so all that was needed was an angle bracket. Naturally the head bolts were at an angle to the head and the head was at an angle to the world. I got the holes close enough.

    I make all my new parts out of aluminum or stainless if at all possible. Neither need finishing and both last forever. Had a shop that could shear 1/8” stainless sheet and machine 3/16” plate. They also had a TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welder. With good drawings, the project was done in about an hour over a couple of days. Telling a shop exactly what you want sure does save time, money and grief. Had the shop lightly bead blast the assembly to remove the weld discoloration. Everything went back together perfectly. Had to get shorter bolts to go into the head. They go directly into the chain gallery and are bathed in oil. I used red high temp silicone on bolts to seal everything. The silicone locks the bolts in addition to sealing and is easy to remove if necessary. Three new bolts, washers and stopnuts held oil cooler to the angle bracket.

    Drawings show details of the parts as best as I can redraw them. Old drawings long gone. I didn’t take the bracket out to measure exactly. Measure your parts to be really sure. I have no reason to believe that there are two identical Dinos. Sometimes the differences are subtle, sometimes not. But every Dino I‘ve met is different from mine. Did not take the AC condenser out for 10 years. Finally had cooling problems and pulled it. Cooling was better and lots more room for the fans. Should have done it when compressor was pulled. Freon hoses pull out easily after taking right front wheel and stone guard off.

    There is no sign of flex or fatigue so far. 19 years and 130,000 miles is a good shakedown. Engine access is much better. Pics show the details.

    John
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  2. champtc

    champtc Formula Junior

    Apr 18, 2004
    732
    John- this is hugely helpful. I am reinstalling my US motor and I am pulling the AC off of it. I will take the drawings to my guy and see if he can fabricate it. I have some 1/4''
    aluminum sheet which I will try to use for stock. Thanks a ton!
     
  3. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott
    I've seen the stainless steel braided hoses before but not the blue braided one - is it Silicon?
     
  4. dignini

    dignini Formula 3

    Aug 21, 2005
    1,348
    NJ
    Full Name:
    Luigi Marazzi
    John, great stuff as always! Do you keep a spare engine around for these shots?
     
  5. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    I take lots of shots whenever things are apart. Use them when needed. Just crop and add captions. Only have one engine. Picture was taken in fall of 2005 during rebuild. Blue hose is hydraulic hose I bought from a local race car builder. Those fittings are screw-on with threads inside and outside of the hose. Braid is nylon fabric that is fully captured by the fittings. I unscrewed fittings from old hose, put them on new hose in about 15 minutes. Easy to handle and plenty strong. That hose is about 8 years old and no sign of any problems. The Stainless braided one is also a repair with same fittings. Stainless is a ***** to handle. Nylon is better, and easier to find.

    John
     
  6. synchro

    synchro F1 Veteran

    Feb 14, 2005
    9,294
    CHNDLR
    Full Name:
    Scott

    Thanks,
    I've got stainless lines on mine, but admire the new technology of Silicon, which is usually denoted by a blue color, hence my original question.



    PS -The term "heat exchanger" is more accurate than "oil cooler" because it provides the benefit of heating on warm up and cooling during steady state operation.

    As temperatures increase it allows both oil and water to more quickly reaches operating temp. As driving progresses it then provides cooling. On spirited drives, hot days, or long uphill grades, I notice the oil temps and water temps track each other with lag - rising on section of heat build up, falling on cool downs.
    Just another reason why the Dino makes the driver feel more connected with the car, you must manage these parameters; something modern cars and their "idiot lights" don't allow
     

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