Dino Saga 060101 All thats left is the flywheel, clutch and transfer gears. Only small problems remain. Boy, there are a lot of parts. Import Auto is my machine shop and they will rebuild most anything you have. Normally they just do the machine work; valves, pistons, rods, cranks, bearings, clutches. The minor disassembly/reassembly is done in a conventional repair shop. They seldom interface directly with an owner unless there is a race car involved. I have made something of a pest of myself with the photography. Try to make up by getting parts NOW. So far, so good. 2004s rebuild from Hell took 6 months. Import Auto did the machining, I wound up finding a lot of parts. The assembly guy wasted time and then ruined all of our work. The machine shop agreed to rebuild things right if I could get the engine out and back in. Bianchi Motors agreed to the in and out part. We were off. The 2005 rebuild is almost done and so far I have found all of the parts. Jack Bianchi has been a great help to the machinists with advice and tools. They have been working together for years and it shows. Just found 30 year old oil seals in transfer gear box that were not replaced in 2004. They had hardened; chipped when flexed. Just add to the collection. Good God! I bought new everything just in case. Good thing! We also found that flywheel clutch surface had been cleaned off with a disk sander and scratched. Oh well; one more day to clean up properly. Pictures are looking better and better. Jack should have engine next week. Joy. Happy New Year to all, John P.S. Gloss black block doesnt bother me at all. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
John - thank you for sharing. I notice in one of the pictures that the carburetor linkage return spring is stretched in its resting position, and that when the throttles are opened, the spring will be stretched to a much greater extent. I have come across this issue during the last few days when reassembling my engine. As mine was formerly a U.S. version, the spring was located on the pulley side of the linkage along with the thermostatically controlled idle and spark-advance smog controls system. Now that I have removed all of that nonsense, I have relocated the spring to the bell-housing side of the linkage, with one end attached to a tab on the cam-end cap, and the other on the linkage. As seen in your picture (second from bottom), my spring is also stretched quite a bit. Have others noticed this issue? I am concerned that at full throttle (repeatedly) that the spring will be stretched beyond its design length and eventually fail. Input is appreciated. Jim S.
John, the aluminum mount on the front center of your motor, is that a motor mount? If it is I have not seen this. My 246 1972 has motor mounts on all four corners. Then I thought I might be mistaken and it is some variation of an accessory mount. What gives? I am confused at this point. Is this something that is year specific or U.S. vs Euro spec.? Thanks for any help on this question and continued good luck on your freshining.
Gary - from my inspection it appears that all four shock (rubber) mounts and their brackets are removed. The aluminum bracket you are referring to, I believe, is the alternator bracket for the U.S. version. The large "waffled" alternator/air pump shield hangs on this bracket. Jim S.
Jim, thanks! Right, it would have to be a air pump bracket as I have a U.S. car but the air pump and bracket has long since been removed before I owned the car. Good tip! Gary
Throttle spring has been at that length for at least 20 of 33 years and has been fine. Only spring that fails from cycling is clutch pedal return spring. Finally stopped replacing it and stopped worrying. Clutch cable has no slop so that spring is not needed if everything is kept lubed. If you need it, the cable needs changing. I always make sure the big helper spring is properly set when adjusting clutch. Big bracket is pivot point for alternator/clutch/air pump base casting. I have removed everything but the alternator. Have kept the casting in place because I did not want to fabricate a special alternator bracket. Could have gotten a Euro bracket but that is far down the list. Maybe someday. I left cam cover thermostat and fast idle stop arm in place even though they are not used. Thermostat covers the hole. Too lazy to remove arm. Did remove stop screw. Choke cable bracket is not on because I have never used the choke. Disconnected all choke linkage and engine access is easier. I have a big box of parts I have taken off. Someday my heirs may sell the car and everything will be there. Thanks for the feedback. John
John, Glad to hear your motor is getting back together. I was down in Santa Barbara on Tuesday with my Dino. I helped another Dino owner in S.B. with their carb synch and mixture. It runs a lot better with the carbs sych'd. I then stopped in Goleta to help Mike remove the transmission from his Fiat Dino Spider. Overall a busy vacation week helping friends with their Italian exotics. (Daytona and 250 Ellena, also) My question: Specifically, what do you mean by "I always make sure the big helper spring is properly set when adjusting clutch." What is the adjustment? Regards, Richard #03510
Richard, There is a big double coil spring that goes between clutch actuating bellcrank and the cam cover. The pictures show my ground strap under the spring mounting bolt. Spring actually bends sideways. It's purpose is to make the clutch pedal force so delightfully light. I have had mechanics foul up the adjustment so do all adjustment myself. The book is very specific about alignment and the book is right on. Clutch cable length and spring mounting points are the adjustments and they are only moved when installing a new cable. The clutch itself is adjusted with the left/right handed screw between the throwout bearing arm and the actuating belcrank. John
John, I noticed the graphic in the workshop manual showing the 2mm deflection. Could you give me any more details about the adjustment? What is the process you use to make the adjustment or cable lengths? Any details appreciated, Thanks, Richard
Richard, Spring setup is made whenever clutch cable is disconnected Start with top of spring loose at top end (requires some muscle to get in and out) Cable clevis not connected to bellcrank Adjust left/right adjusting screw for proper alignment per book Put cable into mounting hole and get a feel for where the clevis ought to be on the cable screw end Put sheath in mounting hole, add sheath retaining nut, clevis locking nut and clevis. Leave sheath nut loose so you can wiggle entire cable. Run clevis locking nut all the way down Run clevis to where you think it ought to be Trial fit to bellcrank and adjust clevis as necessary; lock Tighten sheath retaining nut. Put spring in it's retainer(oomph) Adjust clutch free play and you are done If you need more or less cable, there is another clevis up front. Leaving the spring and the cable loose makes life much easier. Never has to be touched until cable is removed again. Good Luck, John