Some yellow paints require a white base coat or primer, ... may be the case here? Outstanding work Alberto!
Pete and Tom, cannot get white primer here, as not worthy enough, or at leat not knowledgeable enough, so thanks to the guys at fchat, we painted white as yellow over gray primer looks really muddy and dirty. It is really difficult to see the faults on white, you are right, but as we are going to sand the car down, the shiny spots will show through. so when the whole Dino is flat, off we go to the paint booth. My wife will be happy... Only problem, is it will be at the MB dealership cabin. That's OK, no? The DE contingent will be proud...;-) We started installing the inner tub with space age insulation over the central chassis tube. amazing stuff, cannot feel a 1500w heat gun with a hand on the other side. Bets where being made...disbelief everywhere. Thank you Jim! My question now, is how to fiberglass the tub to the sills, as no clue. Remember? Dino in boxes. I am posting the question in another thread as I need a reply soon. My resin is getting hot. I am glad you are liking this. For me it is insane, as now I am starting to see a car being born. Regards, Alberto
Surely you can import some primer? You must seal the metal properly or it will rust in no time, but sure you know this. Pete
Pete we can get all the most varied toxic products not available anywhere else, but no white primer. Gray, all we want. That's what 's sitting under the white paint. When we will go to the paint booth, one more light mist of white, then Giallo Fly! Thank you for the advice. Regards, Alberto
Alberto, Your work is stunning and I'm sure the rest of the restoration will be to the same exceedingly high standards. Not only have you reversed the clock and brought an elderly Dino back to its youth, you have provided other Dino lovers/restorers many helpful insights into how these automotive art works can be revived, even when it seems hopeless at the starting line. Thanks for taking the time to document and share your work! Mark
More of the tub sealing, with slight improvements... Mock up of brake lines with copper as much easier to bend. After, the real stuff. Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Tropics, right Andy? I am getting some wild ideas of photos of the Dino once it's painted, only in the body...tropical settings, again. Thank you! Regards, Alberto
Sealed a few openings that were really badly made. Is the center opening next to the shifter box supposed to be open as per photo? Does the accelerator pedal cover belong to this car, or is it another extra from the "Dino in boxes"? Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The tub is sealed, painted, and the Dynamat installed. I am impressed at the change of sound in the roof when tapping on it. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The consoles need to be addressed as the handbrake section is completely wrong and possibly from another car. The shifter console had been made and left unfinished, in aluminum by someone that did not know fiberglass existed. It is really well made though. Mercifully, the front console was, and is original. Modifications are needed across the board as everything has to be remade. I have a rear "E" series section that was molded up, and the prototype started to be modified as the handbrake in an L, is different in size and in its placement also. Just a bit of snip snip, glue glue. The center is in a mold of the "original aluminum, then will need a cig. lighter nacelle installed into it, and the corresponding openings cut out for the controls and ash tray. The front console, will be made new as the fixing tongues were falling off and in bad condition. Fortunately, they all are fixable situations... The accelerator pedal cover is the original, I am amazed it was even there. Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great build Alberto! One thing, I think your (mock up) brake lines don't do the car justice....with the proper tools ($50 in total on eBay) you can really make them 'shine'. After all true beauty often lies in the smallest of details.... Here's an article that explains the basics: http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0501cl_brake_line_basics/index.html Hope this helps, good luck!
Thank you Harald, a mock up is just that, we are only trying to find the routing with cheap copper refrigerator wire as all the brake lines were missing. We have the real stuff from Fedhill, to make the various flares to new cunifer pipes, with all the new fittings and assorted accessories. Thank you for your concern and I assure you will not be disappointed with the end result... Regards, Alberto
Alvaro Ferraro, very kindly sent me a topographical map of his center console. I have now 7 photos of every possible dimension, with the coordinates for the hole placements, so we are set to making molds. He mentioned that his is damaged, evidently Ferrari plastic vacu-formed process was not the best. Fiberglass will work much better. Thank you Alvaro! Regards, Alberto Image Unavailable, Please Login
A pleasure to dismantle my center console to take the dimentions and pictures. Was a surprise to see my picture in the FChat, but maybe can help other L owner. Regards, Alvaro
Dynamat. Great stuff. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I spy another Dino, and a bonnet skin in high storage ... ? . I notice people (here and on Alfabb.com) are putting the dynamat on the inside of door skins, thus I have to assume it is happy getting wet? Will it hold water and cause the door skin to rust? Pete
For the floor installation, doesn't the carpet go right over the Dynamat? If so, what do you plan to do to disguise it? The other areas (doors, roof) are covered.
Pete, the stuff is horribly sticky, and as long as you flatten it well with a roller, there is no way water will get in behind it. I had a spot of the tar like substance that it has behind the foil, stuck to my hand, and only paint thinner would get it off. Inside the doors of the Dino there is room to start under the top fold, so water has no accessibility. The only way, would be turtle, and that is not in the books... The hood skin, is another we made. The Dino "E", will be next Ron, I really did not think about what to put on top of the Dynamat, possibly someone that has used it before can offer experiences. The carpets will cover it well, possibly some jute layers would work (got plenty of that over here!), albeit some black paint should be used to cover the foil in strategical locations. Regards, Alberto Regar
I ask because that bright shiny silver Dynamat will easily show if any speck of it is not covered by carpeting...which as I understand it just lays on the floor (and therefore can shift exposing slivers of what's under the carpeting).
I was under the impression that the Dynamat went UNDER the fiberglass floor skin, sandwiched between it and the belly pan. If your belly pan isn't on, you could flip the rotisserie upside down and fill the voids easily.
Alberto's 6/21 photos show the floor pan in place, no Dynamat. Photos with Dynamat came later, covering up all but the seat rails. Thus my question to him about covering the Dynamat.
Never thought about it, but then, what did Dino have between carpets and tub? I am guessing the typical thick horse blanket that rotted all Italian car floors, with the black coating on it or just thick sisal/jute? I am guessing you have to build some give under the carpeting, otherwise it will be a hard feel and 1/2" or less in thickness? I really don't know. I suppose you could install the Dynamat under the tub. I just copied OMG Jon's Dino. We're all lemmings. Don't you have an Ipad 2 yet? No? Quick, before they sell out! Sorry Glenn... No rotisserie for painting Jon, as we do not possess Jerr-Dans here, or USA trained tow truck operators, just the old stuff you guys threw away thus the wheelies, as my race car trailer will do real well to the paint booth. Of course we could have done that after the car goes back on the rotisserie, and then...........oh heck, it's already done. Time for a drink. As far as the silver stuff, we already took measures. Will show you tomorrow. Stay tuned. Regards, Alberto
