Dino DIY - Bleeding the brakes and filling with new fluid

Brake fluid needs to be changed periodically because it gets old, drops out of spec, and readily accepts water vapor (hydroscopic?) which can promote rusting of the lines from the inside out.

There are several methods to bleed brakes, here is one that I've found to be simple, efficient and able to be done alone. I found an ingenious Speedbleeder device from a fellow Fchatter's recommendation and I've loved the convenience. Speed Bleeder brake bleed screws are ingenious and make one-man brake bleeding a simple and fast task. You remove the old bleed screws and replace with these:

http://www.speedbleeder.com/size.htm
The correct sizes that I've found are:
front = SB8125L
rear = SB7100

 

First, you'll want to bleed the brake calipers that are furthest away from the booster then progressing towards those nearest the booster to facilitate getting the maximum amount of old fluid out without mixing the new/old too much. Since the booster is in the front right of the Dino, you'll want to bleed the left rear caliper first, then the right rear, the left front and finally the right front.

Safely jack the left rear up, double support it and remove the wheel. Fit an 8mm wrench on the bleed screw and make sure it has a 180 degree angle of rotatiion. Next, attach a flexible drain line to the nipple (speedbleeder sells a great silicon tube) and route the drain line upwards to give any bubbles a route out of the brake system and then downward into a catch container. I lightly stuff the silicon tube between the shock springs and that fits it well.

Rotate the 8mm wrench 1/4 to 1/2 a turn ccw to allow the speedbleeder to open. Get in the car and depress the brake peddle 4 to 5 times to push fluid out through the tube and into the catch container (aka 2L Pepsi bottle)
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

After about 4-5 peddle strokes, I find the brake fluid reservoir is low enough to be filled. You do not want to let this go dry as you force fluid out of the system because it will introduce bubbles into the system and that can cause mushy brakes, uneven braking or worse. After about 4-5 pedal strokes, you'll need to add fluid to the brake booster reservoir.
But which fluid should you use?

Since the Dino brake system is made by ATE I prefer to use ATE brake fluid and have found that ATE "Super Blue" and ATE "TYP 200" are identical except for the color of the fluid. TYP 200 is yellow and Super Blue is, well..., blue. By alternating colors I found it to be an easy indicator to tell me when all the old fluid has been pushed out of the system and been replaced by the new fluid.

For example, last year I used ATE "Super Blue" so this year I'll use ATE "TYP 200" and all I need to do is add that yellow TYP 200 to the reservoir every 4-5 peddle strokes, watch the old fluid coming out and when the fluid changes from blue to yellow then I'm done.

NOTE: Your reservoir probably looks different than mine as pictured because the PO upgraded my brake booster and master cylinder.
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

When the fluid in the drain tube changes color, you've succeeded in changing the fluid!

Rotate the bleed screw cw to close it, pull the drain tube, remove the wrench and clean the whole area with your favorite brake cleaner. Replace the bleed screw nipple cover and reinstall the tire then safely lower the Dino
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Move to the right rear, and repeat.
Proceed to the front left and repeat, then the front right and repeat.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Yes, only one bleeder per caliper.

Now if I could only spell the title of this thread correctly....

 

YES, works easily when solo! That is the beauty of the speedbleeders.

In the past I have had two issues with standard bleed screws in a one-man operation that the speed bleeder solves:
1) after the downward pedal stroke I rush to the caliper to shut off the screw and am too slow so that air gets in the system
2) I have unscrewed the bleed screw so far that air gets in through the threads. (the hint of adding grease on the threads doesn't work)

 

I purchased several fluid items recently and did some shopping around but found the cheapest was on Amazon.com, even when factoring in shipping

The ATE brake fluid was bought on Amazon through
Hoerr Racing Products at $12.95 per liter and s&h for 6 L was $10. It turned out to be cheaper than my local retail stores sell it for (tax incl), which amazed me.


PS - Amazon must have a strangle hold on these guys.
For example, I bought SWEPCO gear oil fluid on Amazon from CDOC and the price (including s&H) was far cheaper than on CDOC's website or CDOC's eBay listings.

 

Great idea, you're an old hand at this!

With the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday, I can see myself (human clutz) in the kitchen holding two turkey basters with a puzzled look on my face trying to recall which one I used but didn't tell her and saying to myself
"if I make the wrong choice, this gravy is going to taste weird..."

 

Nope, car was upgraded to the 308 brake booster. The correct stock one will have two separate reservoirs.

 

First, find containers that are sturdy for holding the bleed out and won't fall over easily
- Wine bottles are handy ...

Image Unavailable, Please Login