Dino 246GT Door Glass Removal/Installation | FerrariChat

Dino 246GT Door Glass Removal/Installation

Discussion in '206/246' started by 4CamGT, Oct 30, 2004.

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  1. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2004
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    #1 4CamGT, Oct 30, 2004
    I am trying to figure out how to remove the door glass. I have the inside panel off and the glass unbolted from its holder. What I can't figure out is how to get it out of the channel. Its not a GTS so you can't just pull it out the top. Anyone know how?

    Freeman
     
  2. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Dec 10, 2003
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    #2 dm_n_stuff, Oct 31, 2004
    Have you removed the felt window guides? I don't know the technical name for them, but, from my recollection, if you remove them, and the one on the door frame, you get a little more clearance and may be able to tip it out at an angle as you lift them out.

    It's been a while since I took the door panel off, so I may be full of crap on this, but that's what I recall.
     
  3. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

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    #3 4CamGT, Oct 31, 2004
    Dave,

    Thanks, I will give it a try.


    Freeman
     
  4. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    Phil Hughes
    #4 ferrarifixer, Nov 1, 2004
    I've restored a few GT's, and have written myself 3 pages of notes on how to build the doors up nicely to work properly and smoothly.

    I couldn't possibly post it for you, but basically you have to sacrifice the window channels to get them out, and glue in the new ones when re-assembling.

    Dino doors are THE HARDEST job to get right on a Ferrari I have ever done. I allow two whole weeks for door building alone in a typical resto......

    On the first one I did I let the glass slide down accidently and it shattered, be very careful.

    While you're in there. pay proper attention to the locks and catches and get them working properly from key and internally etc etc. The lock should "pop" up when asked and "pop" down again when locked. Simply turning just enough to do the job will get you caught out one day....
     
    Ducati348 likes this.
  5. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2004
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    #5 4CamGT, Nov 1, 2004
    Phil,

    Thank you. I would love to get a copy of your notes. I have found a very straight forward way to change the door glass. It takes about 20-30 minutes once the door panel is off. The three small screws above the vent window assembly on the window frame holds the vent window assembly. Undo these and two bolts on the forward window channel at the bottom and beltline. You then pull downwards and angle the assembly outwards.When you unbolt the glass from its holder you can then just slide the glass out. This also alows you to change the channel felt or service the vent window assembly since you can take it out if you want to. I will be in the process of restoring my doors and associated assemblies so would be interested in your experience.

    Freeman
     
  6. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2004
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    #6 4CamGT, Nov 3, 2004
    Phil,

    Do you have a restoration shop? Do you have experience on the early "L" Series Dinos? What Dinos have you restored? Any pictures? I would love to tap into your experience.

    Freeman
     
  7. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    #7 ferrarifixer, Nov 4, 2004
    Restored Dino's at www.theferraricentre.co.uk back in the late 80's. Then a couple privately, then one at www.dkengineering.co.uk.

    I have a general Ferrari service and repair shop in Melbourne. Majority currently is servicing/repairing all models, and racing 360/550.

    Current in shop projects ......Series 1 246 GT Lindsay Fox collection- Service. RoadRally 308 GTB-service/repairs, RoadRally 308GT4-head work/brakes etc , ex HK 308GTS QV service, 550Maranello- Engine rebuild(hit sump), 360N-GT sequential - Clutch etc

    Haven't done a full classic resto for a few years now.
     
  8. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

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    #8 4CamGT, Nov 4, 2004
    Phil,

    I am compiling a log of information on all Series 1 Dinos. It would be great to get the particulars on the one in your shop. I'll share the info I've compiled with you.

    Freeman
     
  9. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    #9 ferrarifixer, Nov 4, 2004
    Hi Freeman.

    Its # 02120. A yellow RH drive car with 38000 miles. Un restored.
     
  10. yasmin

    yasmin Formula Junior

    Mar 18, 2004
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    Melbourne, Woking. Turin
    #10 yasmin, Nov 4, 2004
    Phil, where in Melb are you based ???
     
  11. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

    Jun 23, 2004
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    #11 4CamGT, Nov 4, 2004
    Phil, I would love to see images of the car. Very rare to have an unrestored original. My Dino is *00474*, very original but also very used (originally from Milan, Italy). The engine/gearbox/suspension is all restored by a fellow Australian, Bill Pound. I bought the car from his girlfriend. I am in the process of collecting all the parts to eventually do the cosmetics (paint, chrome, interior, seals, etc.). These early cars are unusual in the fact that they have alot of 206 parts(gearbox, suspension, trim, etc.). I am slowly collecting the original parts I need.

    Freeman
     
  12. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
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    #12 ferrarifixer, Nov 5, 2004
    Yasmin, I'm in Richmond of course. It's the best location for all things Ferrari! But I'm not here to promote myself, if you'd like further details, pm me.

    Freeman, The Fox car is unrestored, but is not exactly original either. It had extensive bodywork some years ago and is nice, but not perfect.

    It's in perfect condition for regular use, but doesn't get it!
     
  13. rustymufflers

    rustymufflers Rookie

    Sep 12, 2020
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    Vancouver, Washington
    #13 rustymufflers, Nov 5, 2020
    Hi Freeman, I'm working on replacing the window felt and found this old post of yours. Thanks for pointing out the three screws above the vent window assembly--I would have never saw those! Regarding the two bolts for the forward window channel, the bottom one is easy but not so much for the one on the beltline. Any tricks to loosening without stripping the head? The issue I'm encountering is that the access hole is slightly high for a flathead to sit flat, and the bolt is on there good. I'm of course letting PB Blaster do its thing first, but so far no luck.
     
  14. 4CamGT

    4CamGT F1 Rookie

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    #14 4CamGT, Nov 5, 2020
    Wow! Talk about an old post! I would defer to someone that has recently attacked this.
     
  15. rustymufflers

    rustymufflers Rookie

    Sep 12, 2020
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    #15 rustymufflers, Nov 11, 2020
    Well, this is embarrassing. I managed to get that bolt off when I eventually realized it's not screwed into the door frame but secured by a nut behind it. The vent window assembly barely moves, though, and I'm afraid of yanking too hard. Anyone else out there who have done this recently and have any advice? I'm hoping to remove repair the vent window on the driver's side and replace the channel felt on both.
     
  16. racerboy9

    racerboy9 F1 Rookie
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    #16 racerboy9, Nov 11, 2020
    The triangular seal around the vent window is firmly squeezed into the window channel. After getting the screws out, I used a long flat screw driver between the rubber and the horizontal part [< of the window channel to gently pry it out.
     
  17. rustymufflers

    rustymufflers Rookie

    Sep 12, 2020
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    #17 rustymufflers, Nov 12, 2020
    Thanks for your reply. Also have to thank @4CamGT again for his 2004 post. I was starting to side with @ferrarifixer that the channels have to be sacrificed to get the window out despite my disbelief that a broken window would require that severe of a repair, but your note, along with rereading 4CamGT's detailed description over and over again, made me realize there must be enough room to squeeze the vent window assembly forward the 5 mm I needed. THANK YOU both! And for anyone else out there, I can confirm, at least on a 1972 GT, it is possible to get the door window out without sacrificing the window channels. Another clue I had that this was the proper approach was that the window felt in the back and top channels were glued in whereas the front one was not, meaning the front one must have gone in after the window was put in place and slid in from the top.

    Now for the scraper moldings on either side of the window... they're riveted in. Ugh.
     

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