Descaling of old (and porous) aluminium castings | FerrariChat

Descaling of old (and porous) aluminium castings

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by BJJ, Jan 19, 2016.

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  1. BJJ

    BJJ Formula 3
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    Although this refers to the Jarama engine that I have apart on my workbench, this might be of general interest.

    Looking into the water channels of my Jarama heads, it seems that there is a considerable amount of limestone in the water channels. Since the thermoconductivity of such "coating" is bad, this seriously affects heat transfer, obviously.

    I am thinking about how to remove the limestone. Obviously only a chemical approach is possible. On the other hand, most aluminium alloys react with acids, like citric acid or acetic acid. Google reveals that amidosulfuric acid is supposed to be suitable for descaling of aluminium. I do not really understand why the reactivity thereof with aluminium should be less or even absent, since amidosulfuric acid is a stronger acid than e.g. citric acid, which is not recommended for aluminium coffee machine components. I rather suppose that some commercial products contain inhibitors, protecting the aluminium surface against the acid attack. I am trying to find out more details in the moment.

    My main concern is that the poreous "quality" of the casting (we all know about this) may lead to leakages, because the mainly closed pores might be opened by acid action and lead to a microscopic channeling through the casting walls. Is this a silly fear?

    Staatsof (through other channels) pointed my attention to CLR descaling agent. I looked up what CLR is, it contains among other components, like surfactants, two organic acids (lactic acid, gluconic acid), which have less acidity than e.g. citric acid, and by far less than amidosulforic acid. It is supposed to have contained phosphoric acid (having a higher acidicy than citric acid) in former times, but now no longer contains that. Since the acids used are of just rather moderate acidity, it presumably is less aggressive to aluminium. It probably says not to use for aluminium because there is no inhibitor for aluminium comprised.

    What is your approach for internally descaling heads and/or the block? Thanks in advance for your thoughts, in particular with respect to my (perhaps silly) concerns that an acidic descaling process might turn the (poreous) casting into a sieve .....

    Cheers, Bernhard
     
  2. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    Bernhard, very interested to see/hear what others suggest. I've been looking for the "magic bullet" to chemically clean cast aluminum for a long time.

    Most of the various concoctions I've tried haven't worked that well, and the ones that do work, change the surface color/finish of the aluminum. (CLR, for example, will typically leave the surface a darker gray)

    Hence, I usually resort to some form of abrasive blasting, but that's not what your thread is about. You're looking for the "right" chemical to clean/descale these water jackets, and I hope someone has found that "magic bullet" and will share it here.
     
  3. LBBP

    LBBP Formula Junior

    #3 LBBP, Jan 20, 2016
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 21, 2016
    Probably your best option is to look into sonic cleaning. It's used by restoration shops on all types of materials and does not discolor or abrade the surface. I've attached a link that shows a demonstration on an aluminum head. There are literally dozens of companies making these machines, in all different sizes, so some investigation is warranted.

    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G5V7D0sfIuE[/ame]
     
  4. staatsof

    staatsof Nine Time F1 World Champ
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    #4 staatsof, Jan 20, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2016
    I wasn't actually the one who suggested CLR but what Bernhard is trying to do is a bit more than just brightening up an aluminum block. He wants the scale in the water jackets removed. My experience with the stuff is that it really doesn't attack mineral deposits well at all. Maybe it's where I live?

    I have brightened up an aluminum block before, quite effectively too. It was when I had the engine out of my Bora and the heads were off for a valve job and wrinkle painting.

    I used Duro Aluminum Jelly on the exterior of the block carefully, scrubbing with a stiff plastic brush and then I washed it off with a spray bottle of water repeatedly. That got rid of a lot of tarnish and staining. In my case I wasn't dealing with a terribly corroded or stained example. But it looked like new!


    Someone on Fchat must have an approach for water jacket descaling?

    Could this work for you Berhhard?

     
  5. Zcobra1

    Zcobra1 Formula 3
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    Soak in vinegar ? I use vinegar for a lot of cleaning now, but may take a few
    days to start working. No idea how it reacts to castings, but worked on
    some non porous alum. partsfor me.
     
  6. zygomatic

    zygomatic F1 Veteran
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  7. finnerty

    finnerty F1 World Champ

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    Ultra-sonic cleaning is probably the best approach without risking any surface damage or discoloration.

    But, the facilities that can provide the level needed for larger parts with internal surfaces are few and far between --- and they don't typically handle individual parts or very small volume jobs, so might be hard to find.

    Ball burnishing / vibratory de-burring & cleaning might also work, depending upon how small the internal passages are. But, then again you run into the same issues regarding volume as these places tend to focus on industrial applications ---- rather than private consumer needs.
     
  8. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    My Mercury outboards scale up from operating on limestone lakes..

    Mercury suggested a balance of operating hours in the salt water environment, where the water borne scouring action of the sand and oyster shells would offset the fresh water build up.

    So, possibly a slurry of a similar nature circulated thru the passages would knock it loose?? Not a chemical but a mechanical abrasive action...not they oyster shell obviously..
    :D :D :D
     
  9. BJJ

    BJJ Formula 3
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    Many thanks for all the interesting notes and thoughts, I will have a closer look at all this in the next days.

    Cheers, Bernhard

    P.S.: In particular I like the proposal by BigTex, alone since it is so simple :D.Take my wife for a ride to the seaside (she anyway always wants to go there), drain the cooling system and fill in the sea water, ideally with a little bit of beach sand :D.
     
  10. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    The new Mercurys have epoxy coated water passages, but my older ones did not, and THAT was the answer!!

    Thankfully Texas has plenty of both!!
    Bikini girls too!

    I was thinking of a bench process, where the head on a flat surface might have a scouring slurry pressured thru it.
    Then flushed with final cleaning...
     
  11. Far Out

    Far Out F1 Veteran

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    Bernhard, amidosulfuric acid seems to be the #1 choice in coffee expert circles, especially for aluminium machines. If you have a look at kaffee-netz.de, you'll find countless threads with people discussing how it does no attack aluminium in the slightest way, which people who afterwards drink the water (in form of coffee) are rather sensible about.
    That being said, I don't know if there are other traps you can fall into when it comes to using it on engine parts :)
     
  12. kylec

    kylec F1 Rookie
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    I would try vinegar first.
    CLR would work but I would be careful around expensive stuff or something you can't test it on first.
    There are commercial descalers used in water treatment plants for the same reason.

    Walnut or soda blasting would knock it off too.
     
  13. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    I'll be sending a block out for sonic tanking in the next week that has significant scale deposits along with iron oxide from the liners. The shop I use has a large heated sonic tank. Fortunately ferrari blocks are small.
     
  14. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    This is OT about cleaning coffee pots. Some knuckle-head with an Engineering degree at the place I worked.(not my dept. thankfully) He took care of making coffee for his office group,and was taking a profit from it. He was so clueless, was using the janitor brush for scouring the pot. Another guy noticed what he was doing and flipped out on him. Was reported the coffee was some of the best! LOL.
     
  15. BJJ

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    #15 BJJ, Jan 21, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2016
    That will be interesting to hear about. In particular what kind of additives are used in the aequeous medium. I would tend to believe that they do not merely use water with a surfactant.

    I recently cleaned the cases of the Weber carbs of the Espada with my christmas present, a professional ultrasonic bath, where they fit into. The grime is of quite different nature, i.e. resineous organic stuff. Some suggest that using water and dish detergent (as a surfactant) is fully sufficient. But this did not really work. After carefully raising the pH by addition of a moderate amount of sodium carbonate (for saponifying the organic grime) it worked great. "Much helps much" is dangerous and should be avoided in this case also, since aluminium is attacked in alkaline environment as well ...

    So, I would guess that those guys descaling the parts from limestone by ultrasonic treatment use somthing in the solution for lowering the pH. Because ultrasonic alone, i.e. without chemical assistance, will probably not be able to (mechanically) loosen the limestone from the aluminium surface. Hopefully they do not declare their solution as a business secret and tell you what acid is used and in what concentration (and what inhibitor ,if any, see my next post).

    Cheers, Bernhard
     
  16. BJJ

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    #16 BJJ, Jan 21, 2016
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    Yes, I noticed that too, but a statement as to that amidosulforic acid does not attack aluminium at all is for sure wrong. All acids attack aluminium to an extent depending of the acidity (wherein that of amidosulforic acid is stronger than that of e.g. citric acid, which is not recommended for coffee machines). How strong an aluminium alloy is attacked depends on the specific alloy. Some few are quite resistant again acids.

    What those fellows probably do not consider is that some commercial products comprise so-called inhibitors, depending on the metal to be protected against the acid. For copper benzotriazol is well known. But I have not yet managed to find out what is used for aluminium. I will be calling a fellow in a company that makes (acidic) descaling solutions specifically for coffee machines with aluminium components and try to find out what they use as an inhibitor. If you have added a powerful inhibitor, then you can use a comparatively strong acid, like amidosulforic acid, in a relatively high concentration for resolving large amounts of limestone.

    Cheers, Bernhard
     
  17. BJJ

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    #17 BJJ, Jan 21, 2016
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    So, I just had a phone conversation with a fellow in the research and development department of the Swiss company Durgol.

    Her confirmed that Durgol Express (based on amidosulforic acid) comprises an inhibitor specific for aluminium and that, accordingly, there is effective protection against acid degradation. He specifically confirmed that there is no reasonable risk of etching microchannels by way of connecting closed bulk pores.

    Aside this he emphasized that specific attention must be paid with respect to flushing after the treatment. Micropores have a high capillarity, thus a simple flush will not remove the acid from pores open to the surface. Removal will be a mainly diffusive process, i.e. take time. So between repeated flushing steps, the treated parts need to rest in the flushing water for some time.

    He finally confirmed that Durgol Express is in fact (ab-) used in descaling of aluminium engines since some time and that this is without known risks due to the inhibitor and if the flushing issue is carefully considered. He recommends to dilute the solution 1:1 with water and to extend the exposition time. Finally, he emphasized that no elevated temperatures shall be applied, i.e. the treatment must be in the cold (room temperature). Thus, it should be avoided to use it, if a cooling system is operative, i.e. with the engine running.

    Unfortunately he did not say what inhibitor is used .... :D.

    Thanks to Jean-Luc Düring for spending his time with my issue.

    Cheers, Bernhard

    P.S.: So, I will get this stuff and fill it into the cooling jacket of the heads being placed and leveled upside down, leave it some time and flush at least three times with resting phases inbetween over night.
     
  18. Cribbj

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    Scott, before/after pics would be great.......
     
  19. ///Mike

    ///Mike F1 Veteran

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    Great info, Bernhard. Sounds encouraging. Please let us know how it works for you.
     
  20. BJJ

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    Right, just looked it up, sorry for any confusion. It was another guy doing wild (and great) things with Lamborghini engines :D

    Cheers, Bernhard
     

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