Dashboard lights

I also would say the dimmer if there is all other working. otherwise may be a blown fuse
when you have the miles counter in the center console then there are 2 knobs, one for the clock and the other is the dimmer.

 

Do you have a copy of he wiring diagrams in the WSM? Message me your email address. I see you are relatively new here, I also have an 86, post some pictures of your car would love to see it.
Cheers

 

The rheostat that controls the instrument lights is behind the tachometer. This sometimes gets oxidized and the lights go out. You have to disassemble and clean the surface with a pencil eraser.

 

Check the fuse ..If blown I would bet on struts of rear bonnet are shorted .. or dome light in engine is shorted

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

 

Are you saying that the dash and central tunnel instrument lights are not working, but the rear parking lights (and rear side running lights, if present) are working?

Also, what version TR? US, euro, GB, etc.?

 

That combination (no instrument lights and no side lights) is what would happen if fuse #13 was blown. If you are sure fuse #13 is OK:

Remove fuse #13, rotate the headlight stalk knob to "on", and measure the voltage from each female terminal in the fuse #13 socket to the negative battery post. One of them should be at +12V DC. If not, the suspicion would move upstream to the ...006 relay with the "K" on it (Outside lights control relay - of which there is only one so not easy to do a test swap). If you do have +12V at one of the female terminals in the fuse #13 socket for the conditions described, give a shout back and we can try some voltage measurements at the ...006 relay socket (unless you've got a spare ...006 relay lying around ).

 

Mistyped. Should've written: "If you do not have +12V at one of the female terminals in the fuse #13 socket...". If you do have +12V there, but don't have the dash and side lights with a good fuse #13 = would require multiple downstream problems so doesn't seem likely.

 

I would change to a .7.5 A
but may be someone add something to this fuse and because of this changed to 10 A?

good that we have steve here in the forum - our absolutly electric specialist

 

This issue is not uncommon. Rear deck lid grounds out and #13 fuse blows usually after a pot hole jolt.

 

That's good that you (and I) don't have to go hunting a Gremlin , but now you'll need to check if the RH rear bonnet gas spring body has a wear scar on it (and do something about it) as lear60man indicated (try a search on "wear scar" for prior threads with pictures). Another possibility that can blow fuse #13 is the license plate bulb wiring touching a hot exhaust pipe and melting thru the insulation so that's another place to check.

Using a larger fuse in position #13 will give some more margin to the fuse blowing if the short-to-ground event is quick (fuses are really a "current x time" thermal devices) so maybe Dave thought it a prudent thing to do. IME, if the trouble is the RH gas spring occasionally banging into the rear bonnet edge, the wear scar in the paint on both surfaces gets more and more "clean" so the contact get better and better; therefore, a 10A fuse might give some relief initially but not later. AFAIK, the Helm's modifications would have no effect on the amount of current in fuse #13, and having a 10A fuse there isn't a disaster, but it should work with a 7.5A fuse (if, for example, you solve the real problem by bending the lower RH gas spring mount outward by a few mm or adding some shrink tubing to cover the gas spring body).

 

Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login It seems you sorted your problem. But for any body that wants to clean the oxidation off the dimmer rheostat on the rear of the tachometer. or remove the gauge pod to change light bulbs etc. Here are a few tips: Put the steering column in the complete downward position, a 7 mm nut removes the trim panel. You need a 1/4" drive extension and universal joint. After you remove the trim panel you have access to the two 10mm nuts that secure the gauge pod. Disconnect the three wire connectors under dash: 2 white and one tan. After removing the 10 mm nuts swing the gauge pod up and out. The washer that is under the 7 mm nut, cut it in half, then the next time you don't need to remove the nut completely. It is a real bear to thread the nut back on. The black box is the dimmer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

I preferred to bend the lower RH gas spring mount outward a few mm (by removing the lower gas spring end and then giving the "ball" end mount a few gentle whacks with the sledge hammer to bend the flange welded to the chassis ) as this gives no evidence of modification, but others have reported that using the shrink tubing works too.

 

before you think over how to repair you may have a look what is the problem. not sure that it is from the license palte bulb

 

No specific advise about repairing/rerouting the license plate bulb wiring if it needs fixing -- usually just a tie-wrap or two to ensure it doesn't touch anything hot. With regard to the RH gas spring wear scar, you can just unplug the yellow wire from the bottom end male tab to take it completely out of the (electrical) picture for sure as a final test -- unplugging it would only disable the underbonnet engine lights that only come "on" when the lights are "on" and the engine bonnet is raised so all the external lights should still work like normal. If the #13 fuse still blows with it unplugged, then you know that you have to look elsewhere.