CV Boot Replacement Show & Tell?

Randy I just finished replacing my inner CV boot last weekend using a combination of old posts from (as I recall) Full Garage and UConnHusky. I have the threads saved in MS Word on my desktop computer. Send me a PM with your email address and I will forward you the Word file this week when I'm back in the office. Take care.

-Greg

 

You might try the Goth shields, they look really cool and seem like they might actually work.
There was a huge debate about whether they were a good idea or not, but I went for it and no problems for 2000 miles or so.

 

Oh, and you might want to replace the stock ones with the challenge boots. My shop does this as standard practice. They're more "aero" and keep more distance from the heat. Cost just about the same as the regular ones, but my shop says they see them fail due to heat less since they are more streamlined and remain a bit farther from the exhaust path.
Here's a post with pics of the "aero" boots: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/136184840-post9.html (oh, and the "Dave" mentioned in this post is Dave Moore of Moorespeed, which is the shop that works on my car)

 

Check YouTube. There is a CV boot change video done on a 348. Almost identical to the 355 except for the bolt sizes given. I found it very helpful when I did mine.

 

Yep, this is the video I referenced to complete my inner CV boot R&R on the 355 a couple of weeks ago. Messy affair indeed but not as bad as the 328 which doesn't use the additional protective cap on the inner CV joint which helps keep the grease contained.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

+1

'79 Porsche 930 Boot on left, Aero boot on the right.

Aero boot can be ordered from Pegasus - P/N 1474-108
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=5549
They are much more expensive now (38.99 when purchased a year and a half ago, now 58.99) but will last longer and not break down so easily. Entirely up to you, but I would go for the Aero ones and save you the extra job in a few years.

Get the heat shields! Or fab up your own.

And yes, Paul's video was great help! It's just time consuming when wrenching with jackstands, but straight forward.
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Are the aero boots a straight swap for the OEM boots?

 

13mm 12 point

 

I didn't have the problem with the drop. I guess I read the warning ahead of time?

The advantages of the inner ones, using the aeroboot, they'll last a little longer, withstand the heat (big problem for you 355 guys). They also have a little slot for a breather.

Some are hex bolts, but I now have 12 point bolts (not Ferrari spec). About the bolts from my previous thread:

Porsche boots, yes they work fine. You can use a CV clamp, or even a zip tie to secure them.

Pictured: inner aero boots ready to be mounted up.
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Hi Randy, check your email. Sent you all my notes this morning. I bought the replacement boot kit from AW Italian. Very happy with the quality and the price was reasonable too. 1 kit = 1 inner & 1 outer CV boot, grease caps, and 2 tubes of grease.

 

Following this thread closely as I need to do my 355 inner boots soon. I like the idea of the Aeroboots in the high temp environment of the 355. Anyone had any trouble with them?

 

From the 360 WSM which is much better written than the 355....

The 360 and 355 share the same details so you may use this:

Also, here is a video regarding the axle nut I did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtrkIxzHYD8
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I did this job this past spring on my F355. Dirty and time consuming but not difficult

Some tips.

Bought boot kits from AW Italian

The axle nut was a ***** to get off without an impact wrench. Even bouncing on the end of a 2 ft cheater bar. An electric impact gun from HF made quick work of it. Make sure to bend out the tabs and have new ones on hand.

You will also need a large torque wrench to torque it back on.

You can loosen the bolts connecting the inner CV joint to the axle flange from the top through the engine bay. Some have suggested loosening and tightening with extensions from the wheel well. That was a pain in the ass. Tightening was much easier from underneath the car. I chose to replace the bolts also.

Have the molykote on hand.

Get a yellow paint stick to recreate the factory markings if you're anal like me.

There are spacer washers of varying thicknesses between the calipers and their mounting bracket. Remove one bolt at a time and note where they go. Make sure none of them stay stuck on the caliper or bracket.

take the opportunity to adjust the parking brake while you're in there at least on the side you're working on if not both.

I made reference marks marking the relative positions of the joints to the shaft and the shaft to the hub and trans flange so everything was put back in the same position as factory.

I used the goth shields. I have no idea if they help but they sure look good.

 

Randy, the axle nuts need to be replaced - I'm sure Ricambi has them. But, you don't need to replace the CV Bolts unless yours are corroded. Just clean them and the threads prior to a re-coat of MolyKote 1000 and torque to spec.

 

Posted info on the bolts above. Prices might be different now.

 

I got my hardware at the dealer. Was cheap enough.

 

It if shortens it by anything, it would be only by a thread, not enough to worry about.