Clean the casting with brake clean, Put it in the sun and warm the casting to like 80 degrees. Paint a medium run free EVEN layer with the well shaken can of wrinkle, amd put it in your oven for 2 minutes at 200 degrees. You will be able to see the wrinkles set. Let it cool for a couple hours and it will be as good as powder coat the day after.
OK everyone, let's all move to MA so we can have Verell help us with our cars!! I'm jealous of the people that live near him.
Both VHT and Eastwoods work well. VHT requires heat to get the wrinkle finish. Eastwoods does not require heat to wrinkle and therefore might be easier to use in terms of getting an even wrinkle, but Eastwoods takes several days to fully cure. Follow directions to the letter with either product and it will work fine.
Has anybody found a spray can, or sprayable form of the Ferrari Silver Wrinkle? FWIT, when I paint stuff with slow drying paint, have found that it is best to rotate the part until the paint sets-up. To do the valve covers I would probably simply mount them on a 2X4 long ways and put a nail in the end of the 2X4 so that the nail would work as a quasi bearing allowing you to slowly rotate the 2X4. If the parts are slowly rotated the effect of gravity will not cause sags. For wrinkle paint (which dries slow and needs to be thick) it would be best to get some heat on them too. Mark
The only time I've needed to use a bit of heat w/VHT was when I was curing it in a 35F garage. Nothing on the can said anything about needing heat, nor did the VHT Tech specialist when I contacted him about the peeling problem with my first cam cover wrinkle paint. Drying w/o heat takes a lot longer for the wrinkles to develop of course.
I had my stuff powder coated with a red wrinkle finish. Should last a long time. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow Lou that looks great! Kagen and I will have to stop by one of these days and see it first hand. You are really moving on your car now that you got that vocational distraction cleared-off your plate!! Take Care, Mark
Come on over anytime. But the car won't be here! I finally rented a shop in Costa Mesa where I have more room to work on cars. Give me a call and I'll explain...
I agree that the oven is the way to go because you get even heat and better results. We used to use a friends pizza oven after hours...don't tell anyone. I use an old infraread lamp (those old red ones) and you keep it moving slowly over the paint about 6-8" above. You can see it start to wrinkle in about 5-10 mins. and you can concentrate in any areas that seems slow to change. The real secret is applying the paint. Three heavier than usual coats and alter directions when applying. The first the long direction the second across the first coat then the final coat the long way again. APPLY AS EVENLY AS POSSIBLE!! I like to use a Lazy Susan to help rotate it so I don't have to move to an awkward position. Try to keep whatever your painting horizontal to avoid runs. 10 mins between coats...don't wait much longer. Wait another 10 mins. when done then apply the heat and keep it moving slowly. Make sure you put equal amouts of paints on the corners and edges as they will turn out shinny and not wrinkle if you don't. When you use the light (a hair dryer works but not as good) the wrinkle process takes about a 1/2 hour and after that you don't get much change. I use Plasti-Kote Wrinkle Finish or VHT and the lamp is a Westinghouse Infrared 250W Heat Ray. You can get a great finish but it's not easy. Remember even coats. Good luck I'm sure you'll do fine.
I used eastwood black and got a perfect finish. It took 3 weeks to cure fully but is hard as a rock. I agree the thicker the first and second coat the thicker the wrinkles. I know it took a long time to dry but it was worth it. rob Image Unavailable, Please Login
I second the Eastwood recommendation. I've used it on several applications over the years.... serious quality. http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=106&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&keyword=wrinkle
Do you know where I can finr Europeans distributors of the vht paint products for my 355 crinkle valve cover ? Very nice job on those photos ! Nico
To follow up on a previous post, did anyone ever locate of come up with a process for creating a silver / aluminium look to a wrinkle finish like the intake manifold and runners on a Testarossa?
I've used this stuff many times with usually good results. I use heat lamps (actually a couple of cheap halogen work lights). Start with a clean surface and apply pretty heavy coats (it takes practice to get it right) set up the lights and move them around if necessary to get the wrinkling as even as possible. If it doesn't wrinkle evenly or at all, you probably put it on too thin. It should be all done wrinkling within an hour or so. If the lights are hot and the humidity isn't too high you can handle the part tomorrow. If you screw up, bead-blast it clean and start again. Don't even dream of using your wife's oven, (when you smell this stuff you'll know why). I've used several brands, didn't see much difference.
Riloplast is supposed to be the real stuff. went to order some from gasup.it (the manufacturers') and the minimum they sell is 3kg €2100! VHT black wrinkle for the black cam cover, and will try the VHT grey wrinkle oversprayed with the VHT silver (non-wrinkle), is my idea to try.
You can get the Riloplast red(crinkle), black, green, etc., from eBay. I got 2 spray cans sitting in my 'Junk Room' right now. NOT Cheap but it is the actual paint Ferrari uses. So painting your valve covers may not be OEM, but the paint sure IS.
The eBay stuff from Italy is not Riloplast, but from a competitor. www.gasup.it is the official supplier for Riloplast, which I've tried.
I used the VHT Wrinkle-Plus high-temp on my intake; it does require baking at 200F for 20 minutes. Could have almost fit it in the oven but opted to stay married and made an oven out of sheet metal, aimed a couple of 1500w electric heaters into it. Never quite got to 200F though. That was 2 years ago, finish has held up OK