cranks but won't start

I had a look at mine (5.2) and it seems to be plastic on both sides of the plug. The 5.2 diagrams don't show shielding, however.

Anyway, I'll draw the 2.7 like this (similar to the 348, but with shielding)

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The original diagrams don't show the shield touching the plug, so I've replicated that, too.

Pin 1 of the interconnect plug goes to the other ECU.

 

It's a wierd one with the shield. I had a Motec M48 on an old Holden V8 supercar engine (sequential injection)
and it was important that the shield be terminated at any plug. I'm no help with Ferrari wiring that's for sure. Seems to be so so many variations even between the same models.

 

No as you know mine was doing that as well and it was due to the crank sensors and cam phase sensors knowing something was wrong.
The above statement is a guess but what happened is not a guess but a fact. This happened exactly like mine.
Abviously do not know if his problem is the same though

 

Sounds like witchcraft to me. I see in the WSM (in the 5.2 engine section) that during the engine starting phase, fuel enrichment and spark advance is computed using (amongst other things) coolant temperature. I assumed, however, that zero signal would be interpreted as a really low temperature.

Very. Thanks!

 

The ol coolant temp sensor eh! They do give ecu information some grief that's for sure. Glad it's fixed. One thing I will add is when I did my first eng out service every plug on my engine harness got a little dose off electric clean then electric grease (utilux grease) helps a lot!

 

This is definitely not the case with mine as it will run with that sensor unplugged that is about half way up bank 1 in the well of the V
After my first major I had a problem with it but it started and ran fine.
Just no reading on the gauge.
Maybe his other 1 was gone.
Easy to test and if I remember will check it in the spring.

 

Glad you got it sorted and saved lots of cash that great

 

+1

... or +2 (there are two ECU water temperature sensors on the 2.7 car). The gauge sender has no input into fuel/ignition control.

 

Illogical. I have a 2.7 car as well and when I got it one temp sensor was bad, basically open circuit, high resistance. The only thing it did was make the car fail emissions. Additionally, as noted, there are 2 sensors on a 2.7 car, one for each bank's ECU (also one for the gauge actually makes 3) so a bad sensor would only effect one bank and these cars will start and run on one bank. Furthermore, if cleaning the contacts made it work, that would imply excessive resistance due to the dirt. Since the sensors have very high resistance when cold, if dirty contacts >>> high resistance, it should not effect a cold start.

Keep your fingers crossed. Good that the car is running but the problem may reappear.

But yes, if the car is not running when you check the codes you will get a 1121 code, RPM sensor.

 

I,agree John based on my experience but as long as his cars running I am happy for him