Thanks for the info. I will check this and your other valuable suggestions when I get back.
https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/DIY-Auto-Service-Pemanent-Magnet-and-Hall-Effect-Sensor-Diagnosis-and-Testing Scroll down about 1/2 page to Hall effect sensor. Life's just not that complicated.
Not sure. On the Motronics 5.2 car, the sensor is indeed powered by 12 volts (supplied by the relay panel). On the 2.7 cars, the voltage comes from the ECUs and the internals are somewhat of a mystery. The cam sensors have the same part number on both cars, so ... best guess.... the ECUs supply the 2.7 sensors with 12 volts also.
I hate to be an instigator of a bigger problem but that’s exactly what my car did when the belt jumped a few teeth. You can check everything I did in my documented thread on ‘cam phase sensor’ and if everything is working I would suggest this is what happened. You just had your engine apart so it’s more likely I think than mine was since mine had run flawlessly for Over 1000 miles before this happened then it did not run.
Epic story with a tragic ending. A 355 owner's (almost) worst nightmare. Is there a way of checking for a slipped belt without pulling the engine or fuel tank?
Not unless you mark the belts which I will do this time. Then you could see if one was different than the other. No other way I know of. It’s ****ty but after you helped me check everything there was nothing left that could be wrong. I have a bad feeling this poor guys in the same boat. Hopefully I am wrong. How I noticed if you recall was I took the plenum off and when cranking I noticed smoke coming back into the air box area. This told me through common sense that it was not sucking air in correctly but likely out of timing. Take care Ian
Before I departed for my country house I did check if there was power to the cam sensor with light and it shone brightly. I did not check the voltage but will do so when I return.
Since on M2.7 the power supply to the cam sensor comes from the ECU, it is better not to test it with a bulb as it may overload the electronic circuitry inside the ECU that provides this supply. The circuit could be designed to provide some 100 mA as the cam sensor probably takes less than that and a bulb could draw considerably more than 100 mA, depending on its wattage. I used a mini bulb that you can get in radio shacks which draws ~40 mA to test some of the ECU pin switching functions like those activating the injectors and the fuel pump relays.
Good point Miro I would not have thought about that. Obviously goes for other circuits of that nature as well.
Good point but the camshaft phase sensor is the same for the 5.2 and 2.7. Also you can check if the belt has skipped a few teeth by finding TDC, removing the cam covers and checking that the factory alignment marks line up.
Yes you can but you could probably drop the engine faster. At least I felt that way and why I pulled it
I am back at it and am waiting for delivery of two crank sensors and a cam sensor though I am not convinced that this is the problem. Can anyone tell me the location of engine connector (rear) 41019??
It is apparent that the crankshaft position sensor (CSP) for the LH (5-8) is faulty as there is no internal resistance and no AC voltage when the engine is cranked. The sensor for the RH bank shows a resistance of about 800 ohms and I get an ac voltage when the engine is cranked. Question: If one of the CPS is faulty does the ECU prevent the engine from starting even though the second CPS is functional? In addition, the diagnostic system indicates code #1121 which is for the CPS. It displays the same fault code for both banks. If only one sensor is faulty, will the fault code appear on both banks. Hopefully my new sensors will arrive next week.
Looking at the wiring diagrams, there doesn't appear to be any communication between the banks, so the good side won't know if the other is faulty. Since you have only one cam sensor, and this is shared by both ECUs, perhaps this is one of your issues. The ECUs can't set the timing on either bank. Still seems odd that you have multiple broken parts tho'.
I have given this some more thought and it seems to me that a mechanic I used to work with disconnected one of the CPS in order to insure the engine wouldn't start. I may be wrong. I only have one (1) cam sensor, so there must be some crossover between cylinder banks. There also must be some logic in the ICU that prevents the pump from starting and spark being initiated. BTW there s no spark on either bank now. I checked continuity from the fuse/relay block and everything appears to intact. I also removed the fule pump relay and connected power to the appropriate contact and the fuel pump started. I guess I will have to be patient until next week when the new Bosch CPS's are delivered. In the meantime I will continue on the final legs of my Jaguar e type restoration.
Understood. When I said "Since you have only one cam sensor and this is shared by ECUs", I meant that the cam sensor has wiring has wiring to both ECUs (and this is actually shown in the wiring diagrams). However, the crank sensors do not have shared wiring and there is no ECU to ECU communication, so either you have two crank sensor problems or the fault code de-coding in the WSM is not quite accurate. Anyway, there is a two pin plug somewhere which carries the signal from the cam sensor to the left ECU. Maybe you could check to see if this is connected? As previously mentioned, the pump relay is controlled by the ECU in response to the crank sensor signal. The crank sensors and cam sensor/s are responsible for timing. Without timing, the ECUs don't know when initiate a spark.
