Crane XR700 or XR3000 - MSD | FerrariChat

Crane XR700 or XR3000 - MSD

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by chrismorse, Jul 10, 2004.

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  1. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse
    I am about to replace the points with Crane's infra red set up and have been unable to find much of a difference between the two systems, (other than the 3000 not requiring a balast resistor on the coil). The cost difference is small.

    I also have a pair of MSD-5 boxes. Does anyone have any experience using a crane system WITH MSD???

    I recently failed two smog checks with 2000+ PPM HC, one smog pump feeding two headers and no thermal reactor & new plugs. got 155-165 psi compression and 1-2% leakdown. So, the shop suggested the crane set up. (Personally, having 0 experience troubleshooting Webers, I am concerned about float levels or leaking cold start devices).

    I have cruised the archives on crane set ups and carb work and am leaning toward getting the ignition in "better than new" condition before tackling the carb issue. Fortunately, the shop that sold me the car is responsible for getting the smog done, (don't ask me how it can be done with olny one pump, no thermal reactor, evaporative junk, low speed RETARD or cold start fast idle mechanism). I suspect that a pass on the tailpipe emissions will get the "job" done.

    BTW data: 77 GTB with 23k miles, 13.5 mpg on the freeway at cruise, very poor low speed performance esp hot, pulls strongly to redling from 2500-3000 rpm. current set up - 140 mains,200 AC, F6 tubes with 60 idles flowmaster exhaust, K&N. and cd player.

    any comments or advice welcome.

    thanks,
    chris
     
  2. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,562
    The twilight zone
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    The Butcher
    To me, it sounds like a mixture problem. My QV with a supercharger gets over 18 mpg on the highway, so if your only getting 13, you are way rich. Also, perforeamce that gets worse as the engine warms up indicates a rich condition. High HC also idicates a rich condition. So that's 3, you're rich down low.

    I don't know anything about jetting a weber, but normally, anything in the botton 1/3 of the rev band is the idle jet...if no one with better knowledge chimes in, I'd start there and try 55.
     
  3. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,562
    The twilight zone
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    The Butcher
    Wait, take it back....float level to spec first, then if it is still rich, idle jets.
     
  4. 308GTS

    308GTS Formula 3

    Dec 27, 2001
    2,223
    TN
    Use 2 XR700s. They will require ballast resist. XR3000s have had cross talk issues in the past. XR700s work great.
     
  5. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Sep 30, 2003
    17,958
    Savannah
    great thread... going to lurk here on this one as well, i want to dump my dual points distributers!!!
     
  6. ferrarifixer

    ferrarifixer F1 Veteran
    BANNED

    Jul 22, 2003
    8,520
    Melbourne
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    Phil Hughes
    hang on....you've got a carb problem so you're changing the points???

    err, let's get the problem fixed first, you may not need to spend anything on parts at all.

    Replacing points will not make the engine run any better, it will simply reduce the ignition maintenance requirments from every 3000 miles to 6000. You will still need to have properly synchronised distributors too.

    A points car will run perfectly cleanly from idle to over 8000rpm, just needs checking and adjusting once in a while, that's all.

    2000ppm HC is a huge problem. If your engine is running correctly at idle it will be well under 700, and with careful tuning as low as 150, and half that for injected engines.
     
  7. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
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    chris morse
    Thanks Mike. Will do the float check.

    Hey 308GTS what is the cross talk stuff? is it enough of a problem to outweigh the "advertised" upgrade???

    Careaper, Maybe cruise the general forum & find a stock is best purist/restorer to cherish, (buy) your old ignition stuff.

    Just in case, does anyone have a good source for cap, rotor & good wires (without the hype-$$$$$$$$)?? I've heard about Chrysler truck wires, magnacore ect, ect.

    thanks,
    chris
     
  8. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,652
    The fabulous PNW
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    Han Solo
    #8 Spasso, Jul 10, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The reference to 'crosstalk' means the electrical impulses from each box interferes with the signals from the other causing poor to zero performance. The XR300 is considered a stand alone unit.

    My '78 GTS has two Crane XR700's mounted to the forward bulkhead using an optical pickup in each distributor. Never misses a beat all the way up to 8,000 RPM. Conversion cost less labor is around 500.00.

    I am using 8mm Taylor Spiropro high heat silicone wires on mine. Excellent wires. The plug boots (the red part) come in 45, 90, 120 and straight degree angles. If you don't mind the non-OEM look the universal set I used cost 65.00 plus shipping.

    I have seen a set of 7mm wires on a '75 GT4 that looked OEM except they were red with black boots. They were originally manufactured for a Hyundai but are a better quality wire than the original metal strand core type wires from the factory.

    I would check your points and timing to make sure they are in spec then work on the REAL problem, your fuel air mixture. Fix that and you will find you may not need to mess with the ignition for a while.
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  9. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
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    Sep 30, 2003
    17,958
    Savannah
    ditto what he said 2 of everything!!! i am leaning towards the x700 or go with the $$$$ digital set up.
     
  10. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,652
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    Han Solo
    Go to the blue tool bar at the top of this page and click on the word 'sponsors'. Give them a buzz and do some shopping. HG parts or possibly T. Rutlands might have competitive prices for cap and rotors. Better yet, Ferrari UK. They are one of the best and cut good deals once in a while.

    Make sure you need them first! You are talking close to 500.00 just for two caps.
     
  11. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
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    Sep 30, 2003
    17,958
    Savannah
    hey Spasso, love the wires , and the squeaky clean engine!!! i am going to get rid of the fuel vapor stuff and check the remaining vacuum lines, as i think i have a vaccum leak somewhere. i really like how clean and tidy your engine is...... i have a long way to go :(
     
  12. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
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    I have a method to my madness when it comes to cleaning the engine and drive train and keeping it that way with minimal hassle.

    The wires just barely fit in the distributor caps without mods. The original wires were metal strand core wires from 1978 that looked like they came off of a tractor! POS!

    I replaced all of my vacuum lines and sheathed them in aluminum braid to resist the heat.

    P.S. The wires on your engine look just like the Hyundai wires I saw on the GT4.

    Save all of your emissions stuff! It is hard to get and costs a fortune.
     
  13. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,027
    USA
    A couple thoughts:

    1) First, gotta go with Ferrarifixer that changing the ignition it going to do nothing to get your car to pass an emissions test. You need to fix your running problem...and most likely add a cat in order to pass that test.

    2) Do call Crane about the possibility of using the XR3000s. I have heard rumors that the "crosstalk" thing is no longer a problem (units are better isolated). But check with them first, to confirm, before proceeding.
     
  14. thecarreaper

    thecarreaper F1 World Champ
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    Sep 30, 2003
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    Savannah


    if they are Hyundai wires im am going to stock up on them....:) ill check for part numbers!!
     
  15. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
    3,066
    Kansas
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    Sean F
    I'm just going to add that I have the same car as you with the original ignition and I got 17mpg on the highway on a 1200 mile trip and 15 driving around town, and I'm not exactly light on the throttle. Your carbs may be in need of a tune.
     
  16. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
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    The part number will be for a 4 cylinder engine, just get two sets.
     
  17. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
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    That is really good mileage Sean. I haven't been checking too closely but I think the best I have gotten is 15 MPG on the freeway. The fuel/air on the dyno said 14.5:1 so I'm not too rich according to local experts. Curious. Maybe time to resync the carbs.
     
  18. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
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    chris morse
    Yes, this sure does sound like a carb problem, (way rich). One of my reasons for going to the crane is to eliminate the points, (they are an antiquated, high maintenance item).
    On my trip to santa barbara, i would very occasionally experience a stacatto, (1-3 or 4 beat) engine miss. It didn't seem to be associated with any specific rpm or throttle opening. The car scoped fine, (they said). it wouldn't come into adjustment, 2000 PPM hc. fouled plugs were replaced, same problem, carb balance was good and the car ran well above 2000 rpm.
    On the return trip, mileage was around 13 and during the last 50 miles, i noticed a much greater frequency of the stacatto miss syndrome. No apparent loose wires or connections.

    So, before the car rides back to santa barbara on a flat bed to have the smog done, i want to have the ignition squared away before they work on the carbs. (There was some problem with the dealers original smog, so i left the car with him for a day and he couldn't get it done, so he agreed to have the car brought down and back on a flat bed).

    I'd like to up grade the car's maintenance items as time progresses. I'm not looking to throw money at the problem, but rather have seen two situations develop so far:
    1) When work is started on the car, I frequently find that something else is needed to finish the repair, (like when doing the front a arm bushings, i found a small tear in the lower ball joint boot, so the car had to sit while i ordered the BJ).
    2) The "AS LONG AS" syndrome - While doing the a arm bushings, i found that with the a arms and spring/shock out of the way, it looked like the brake lines would be really easy to replace, and the steering rack gairters looked a bit weepy, so while i'm in there why not do them as well - you know the drill - the car sits while more parts are ordered.
    SO, i'm learning to do two things, plan for the worst case scenario and look at what else might be more easily done while doing the repair and to have as nearly as poossible, all of the bits and gubins at hand.

    So, does anyone know if the crane 700 will work with an msd box?

    Is the hypo or improved coil worth doing? (I'm inclined to put two in when the dist is done just because the originals are almost 30 years old). Ditto wires. The extenders were done at 3 months ago.

    Some time in the future, i would like to investigate installing a vacuum advance on the dist with the two new crane "points". (The po installed both high speed ppoints in one dist and installed two msd boxes).
    This is the first "modern" car i have seen WITHOUT a vac advance.

    Spasso - the engine looks outstanding, definitely shows care. Aeroquipping the fuel lines looks like an excellent idea.

    With regard to removing all of the evaporative stuff - don't the tanks need to "breathe", that is, take in a bit of air to replace the fuel that is drawn out, so a vacuum isn't created?? Additionally, as the car is driven, or if the car sits in a hot place, doesn't the fuel expand?? It doesn't seem that it would develope enough presure to do damage, but a bit of pressure relief might be good. I had a couple of original evaporative lines puke a bunch of fuel out after a fill up. scared the s**t out of me and i over reacted and removed the stuff. So, i need to address some kind of venting/breathing.

    Mired in ignorance,
    chris
     
  19. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,027
    USA
    "So, does anyone know if the crane 700 will work with an msd box?"

    I have "heard" of this being done, but have no direct experience....I have been on the Ferrarilist for several years, and heard someone mentioning that they did this on their 308...apparently worked well for them.

    I am not certain of the advantages of doing this....but have heard almost universally that using either the MSD or Cranes alone seems to work just fine.
     
  20. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
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    chris morse
    Dave,
    This is a lot of surmise about the two systems:
    The msd allows a much smaller, (triggering), current to pass through the points, thus reducing the point related wear, but still having stock rubing block wear, which requires checking dwell and adjusting the timing for drift), and, i think, generate a multipul signal of higher, (than stock) voltage to the coil, which then multiplies the voltage into a multipul, BIG sparks/firing event.
    I suspect that the crane system not only replaces the points as a triggering device, (without the wear), but also multiplies the primary voltage to the coil, thus yielding a higher final voltage potential at the plug.

    Can I use the crane to eliminate rubbing block wear & point erosion AND use the MSD to achieve even higher final potential and multipul spark fireing per cycle??? (I want it all).

    I will contact MSD tomorrow with this question.

    What can we do to make the 308 as strong and reliable as current technology allows?????

    with a fair amount of humility,
    chris
     
  21. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,027
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    Seems the simpler solution would be to use the Crane XR3000, which would give you the higher output you desire...what did Crane say? Can you use two of them without problems? Or perhaps there is a way to seperate them or isolate them to prevent problems?
     
  22. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
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    chris morse
    Dave,

    Had a very informative discussion with Frank at Crane's tec line about the ignition system. He made the following points:

    1) Two XR3000 systems cannot be used because of "cross talk", this is still a problem because of the interference between units with a "saturation" feature. This is not a problem with the 700 series.

    2) He recommended using the optical trigger assembly # 715-0020 as a points replacement only without the black box and the 700-2231 installation kit, which has the shutter and misc parts. This optical points replacement is designed to send a square wave signal to the MSD box directly.

    3) The MSD box has a multipul spark per firing stroke as opposed to the standard ONE. additionally, the MSD box has a higher current, (both volts and amps) than the xr700 black box, so this is a more powerfull system combination

    4) Most american made replacement coils, of the oil fill type, are not completely filled and so when installed in a horizontal position may experience overheating/burnout. his recommendation for a replacement was the LX91 epoxy coil, (not a stock looking unit) which is not position sensitive and offers higher output.

    5) The optical trigger needs 1.5 to 2.0 volts NOT 12volts, so a resistor is required. The instructions which can be downloaded contain echlin and other specific part numbers for this.

    With the taylor spiro wires and separators, two coils and the above mentioned triggers and mounting kits we are probably looking at $350 in parts from Summitt. I will post part numbers and prices when i get this sorted out.

    regards,
    chris
     
  23. 308GTS

    308GTS Formula 3

    Dec 27, 2001
    2,223
    TN
    How many times do I need to say don't use XR3000s. Why would you need to??? I guess you want to blow extra $$$ just for the heck of it.
     
  24. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
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    My tanks breathe through the liquid/vapor separator attached to the frame aft of the R/H tank, above the right rear inner fender. All of the tank venting routes through this and (usually) to the charcol cannister. On my car I run the hose that comes from the separator to a 'bung' on the bottom of the airbox base instead of to the 3-way valve and charcol cannister. The bung is located dead center to all of the carbs. When the engine is running a vacuum is created that draws raw fume through the system as required. During shut down I expect some venting to occur from the air intake on the side of the car via the airbox but very seldom have I walked by the car and smelled any raw fumes eminating from it when parked, even in my basement. The rate of expansion isn't fast enough to create a huge amount of vapor that I have been able to discearn.
     
  25. Spasso

    Spasso F1 World Champ

    Feb 16, 2003
    14,652
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    Don't mistake a solid state ignition control box with ignition output. The coil/coils are the key to output and the boxes do the controlling, i.e. MSD multi-spark etc....

    I was told the distinguishing feature on the XR3000 was the variable dwell/RPM response.

    I run the XR3000 and LX91 epoxy coil on my 240Z

    I run two XR700's with stock coils (mounted horizontally) on my 308. If they die I see no reason I can't go with LX91 coils.

    Simplicity is efficiency. Eliminating the points with the optical/shutter conversion is a good start.

    Coils can be tested too. I would try that before dumping them although I have heard of them breaking down when exposed to high heat conditions for years on end.
     

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