355 - Couple of Q's on muffler/cats R&R and Y-pipe rattle | FerrariChat

355 Couple of Q's on muffler/cats R&R and Y-pipe rattle

Discussion in '348/355' started by Targatime, Jan 30, 2021.

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  1. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
    Los Angeles
    My '98 has a Fabspeed muffler and stock (ceramic core) cats, and I'm swapping in aftermarket cats and stock muffler. (BTW, if anyone wants the Fabspeed muffler, please PM me, it's perfect and has 240 miles on it, installed by the PO, and genuinely sounds good -- I just prefer the stock sound).

    Anyway --

    1. Should I be removing the rear wheels for better access to the forward bolts on the cats, where they join the headers? I'm a pretty experienced wrench but man these are a godawful PITA. I have them all out now but can't imagine how I'm gonna get them back in given the limited access. Seems like I'll be tightening them 1/8th turn at a time. Any tips on this greatly appreciated.

    2. I really want to do a test run of the system before I button everything back up and align the muffler to make sure all the joints are properly sealed. Any tips on this? Eyeballing it right now, it looks like the angle the cats sit at will decide where the muffler sits and whether the tips are centered in the bumper. Feels like a catch-22, if I tighten everything up to check for leaks, after I install the bumper I'll have to loosen it all up to align the tips. Do people just install the bumper, align the tips, and hope for no leaks? And if you have leaks, remove the bumper and start all over?

    3. I thought I had a bypass valve rattle but upon getting everything apart I'm very pleased to discover my car has a Capristo valve and that the right side Y-pipe tinwork is loose and must be the rattle culprit. It looks loosest at the front, so I was going to un-fold the tinwork seam and using channel locks pinch it tighter on the pipe, then fold the seam back over. Anyone have a better idea?

    Thanks for any guidance here.
     
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    If you don't have a lift, then removing the wheels will give you better access. Also removing the Inner CV heat shields and working from the top will give you access to the in-board nut and bolt
     
    fboutlaw likes this.
  3. MAD828

    MAD828 F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 8, 2011
    2,540
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Elliott Caras
    The y pipe developed a rattle on mine, I removed it and had the heat shield tack welded, which solved it.
     
  4. Targatime

    Targatime Formula 3

    Feb 22, 2014
    1,219
    Los Angeles
    Thanks -- have the CV boot shields removed. Will give removing rear wheels a shot. It's the outboard cat to header bolts that I'm finding just brutally inaccessible.
     

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