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Cosmoline best options

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Ludwig, Jul 2, 2017.

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  1. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
    307
    Redmond WA
    Full Name:
    Ludwig Allegra
    #1 Ludwig, Jul 2, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    What might be good options in dealing with Cosmoline on the chassis. I am trying to figure out what the best balance would be in addressing the basic restoration of the chassis. I have thoroughly cleaned, solvent cleaned, and then steam cleaned the under-body and the engine bay/suspension mounting, etc. Everything is in generally excellent condition. There is no rust or corrosion of any kind. Areas where the cosmoline is removed then is black painted over what appears to be red basic body color.
    Was the chassis initially dipped or painted its base color prior to black over spray followed by cosmoline?
    My thought is to re-coat the minimal areas where there is the red primary coat exposed and then to re-undercoat all of the chassis with a cosmoline-like product.
    Is there a product that would be best used so as to adhere and blend in with the residual cosmoline and re-coat regions where it has been removed.
    I don't see much sense in stripping more of it given that everything is structurally sound.
    I attached a few representative images.
    Any thoughts as to an appropriate re-coating product?

    Thanks
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  2. 302Tim

    302Tim Formula 3

    Jul 2, 2011
    1,182
    Northern California
    Full Name:
    Tim
    #2 302Tim, Jul 2, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The final Testarossa factory anti-corrosion coating wasn't Cosmoline but rather a product called Dinol. It was applied (as you have found) very heavily and without any regard to masking, so they really made a mess. I too have been slowly removing it over the years but in my environment I'm not overly concerned about re-applying protection. In Redmond I can see why you would want to. I've only used aerosol Cosmoline on a few raw metal parts on other restorations, I found it to be suitable although fairly thin. I liked that it was semi-translucent, unlike the Dinol that is a solid gray-gold metallic coating. I'm sure someone will chime in with their preferred coating(s), I just don't have much need or experience. BTW Dinol still markets several products that may well be useful for you, especially if you wanted to maintain the "factory" appearance (though I have no idea how closely the current product matches)--here is a link that you may want to check out.

    The photos are from the factory and appear to be during or soon after the coating was sprayed. I'll bet the exhaust smoked a bit on the next startup :)

    DINITROL 977

    Another good thread on rustproofing: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/251331-preservation.html
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  3. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
    307
    Redmond WA
    Full Name:
    Ludwig Allegra
    #3 Ludwig, Jul 2, 2017
    I've been looking at the Wurth stonguard product as a potential option. I have completely stripped all suspension components and the have come back from being gold refinished.
    I do not intend to re-coat these, just all the frame members. the factory coating on the Boxer was pretty sloppy to be generous.
    Ultimatly, i would like to be able to apply a product that will recoat areas where there has been complete removal of the Dinetrol but is applicable over areas with residual but otherwise compltely clean material.
     
  4. vincenzo

    vincenzo F1 Rookie

    Nov 2, 2003
    3,373
    #4 vincenzo, Jul 2, 2017
    LPS3

    It is a thin coating and needs to be reapplied occasionally.

    Comes off easily with WD40.

    For Nevada, it can't be beat. For Florida you'd want something more.

    rgds,
    Vincenzo
     
  5. Ludwig

    Ludwig Formula Junior

    Mar 27, 2006
    307
    Redmond WA
    Full Name:
    Ludwig Allegra
    #5 Ludwig, Jul 2, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017

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