348 Complete Paint Restoration (full paint job)

Braden is the guy. Single stage only, for originality.

Here in Dallas/Plano, we have Stuart’s. Lots of concourse quality experience - especially Ferrari. (I own a very successful collision center and would not touch my own car, LOL) $30g’s is the going rate in my mind and that may be light, very light. He actually did some work for me awhile back, since his team knows the cars. I do late model 458/488, etc repairs - non structural, no old cars. I am a Tesla Certified Shop and we like the repeated nature.

Anyway, Full disassemble, strip, mechanical etc, “rotisserie” is probably more, but not terribly far off. There are places that do good work nationwide, have some experience on high end refinishing and may be in the upper teens to $20k, but they may damage or miss stuff. Single stage is best shot in Glasurite Single Stage (OE for period) or Spies Hecker Single stage. Maybe BASF… Do not shoot PPG, even though OE. Those first lines are hard to find these days as single stage as lot of guys only have base clear on their racks. Even waterborne. Jobbers will mix it, but less attention to detail.

Again, Braden is the guy, but backed up and probably not taking much / very selective is my understanding. I am sure there are others, but that is my opinion after 30 years in industry. Last complete I did was 1976 912 during Covid. We mainly do Insurance Collision, but took it on. Full bare metal, but engine in, otherwise all else apart and off. All of it but underneath. Final bill was $19k. Was Color change, but easy on a 911/912.

Cheers!


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Honestly, unless it's absolutely trashed,
I would keep it as-is. It's only original once!

 

I scanned article quickly. One thing that I am not sure if mentioned was if the paint of yesteryear is obtainable today. I don't think it addressed single stage paints if today that are approved due to DEP etc

I read it fast so if I missed it sorry

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To each their own with their car, but unless you are taking the entire thing to concourse quality inside and out to strip to bare metal and repaint would be in my opinion over kill on time and money. Even if the current aftermarket paint job is terrible if its the same color and single stage, a very good sand, respray and then wet sand and buff will make it perfection. If you are worried there is underlying damage and putting a paint meter on it and wanting it to read as original thickness then do the strip, but otherwise you could save yourself a ton of money and still have perfect paint. The single stage paint is really easy to work with for paint correction and getting it perfectly smooth with wet sanding. Just my .02

 

A previous owner of my car had a full respray done. They painted the roof, bonnet, and side skirt areas to match and used clear coat. It's awesome and easy to care for. (I also had it ceramic coated too)

 

And you paid quite a price for that car too. I'd be more pissed than you seem man.

 

I have always been an "as built" guy when it comes to my cars but it is your car so do what you like. With that said you will be able to tell what was on that panel when you go to strip it. I have striped a number of cars in the past and trust me you will lean exactly what was on the car when it was built. One of my Vette projects had three repaints, on my was that a pain.

 

When your car's complete paint restoration is completed, the first chip you get will drive you crazy.

I forgot which of these chips was the first...



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You went to Classic Coach in NJ? Right down the road from me. Great great choice.

 

Tell me about it. I resprayed the front of my 308 a few years back to fix some chips and the first drive out, about 10 miles to our Sunday C&C, I was showing everyone what a great job I did (LOL) and SOB, there was a chip in it already.

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