Hey F Chatters, what does this code mean? Does it mean that the air pump is not working or is not grounded? It happened after some hard driving and a stop after a restart? Code was not present at engine shutdown. Engine compartment was hot prior to restart. Fuse 31 is not blown. Laserman
The message should be: Secondary Air Pump Circuit: Open (sig) not present. i.e. "signal". Difficult to say. The Secondary Air Pump Circuit fault description messages seem like nonsense to me. Image Unavailable, Please Login I have no idea if the translation from German/Italian to English is accurate. Why would you add "Not present". A fault which is "not present" is good Note that P1481 is duplicated for some reason. The ECU can only detect if the relay coil circuit is OK or if the O2 readings change when the valve is opened/closed. You have to figure out which messages are related to the coil circuit and which are related to the O2 sensors. Since message P1452 mentions the word "circuit", it may be related to the coil circuit. I'd say that any individual "bank"-related messages would be O2 sensor-related. There are no earths (grounds) in the coil circuit (except inside the ECU). The earth for the secondary air motor and solenoid valve however is a large common earth above the right hand radiator, but it's less likely that that is faulty as that would affect other things (RHS rear lights and possibly oil temperature readings). With an intermittent problem and strange message descriptions, all you can really do is check the basics and do some shotgunning. Replace relay "L", check the vacuum hoses, confirm that the motor is running when the engine is cold, check that the motor filters are not blocked (can you feel the motor sucking air in?), check to see what the air motor is doing when you get the message (is the engine hot), etc. Good luck!
P1452 Code - Secondary Air Injection System Circuit Open What are the Possible Causes of the P1452 Code? Faulty Air Injection Pump Relay Air Injection Pump Relay harness is open or shorted Air Injection Pump Relay circuit poor electrical connection
Google helps sometimes (although P1452 is not a generic code, so Ferrari may have their own definition)
My car has been running great but I did a random scan this AM and I am now in the 1452 club. Are there any symptoms related? Live data shows higher coolant temps at cruise from usual 181/183 to 192/196. Will 1452 result in these higher readings? Also, fuel trims are slightly negative for bank 1 and slightly positive on bank 2. Any relationship to 1452? Or to higher temps?
I just had this code pop up last weekend. Cleared it, and it returned a few starts later. If this is indeed tied to the air injection pump, my pump is running as I can hear it when I start the car. Any resolutions?
I have not checked for codes since last year because the car is running great. I even WD 40 the bearings in the pump motor every fall. I tried a replacement pump out of a Lexus but the draw on the circuit kept blowing the fuse so I just make sure the old pump is kept lubricated. To be honest I am somewhat afraid to check since the pump is NLA. It could be the relay involved that Qavion notes, however I found that is not easy to find also.
That's one good sign at least. That leaves: Solenoid valve Vacuum plumbing... Does your exhaust bypass valve work at high rpm? Secondary Air valve and air plumbing (including metal check valves). I suppose the relay can still be faulty as it has two sets of contacts. One for the pump, one for the solenoid valve. Try cleaning the relay pins and sockets.
Thanks guys. Let me poke around back there tomorrow afternoon. Solenoids would seem to be the next step.....
I wonder if it's possible to hear a change in the pump rpms by momentarily clamping the vacuum tube between the solenoid valve and the air valve (during warm up). I assume there will be an extra load on the motor with the valve closed (with the pump still running)
OK. Look. It's not that funny really. I am kind of embarrassed. My car, for whatever reason, has the old style canister air injection pump. During my engine out this winter I painted the peeling canister filter. It looks great! I did however, forget to remove the tape over the air inlet.....Oy. The tape is gone now. Lets hope that was it? In an effort to sidetrack from my stupidity some before and after engine pictures! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We having fun yet? Really wish they hadn't pulled the tag off that electric motor. Image Unavailable, Please Login
It had 2mm hex key stud securing it to the shaft. If we knew the motor P/N we can just swap a new one in.
If you could get it to a motor repair shop I think they could fix brushes and bearings or spec a new one for you. Most likely the motor would be cheaper to replace than repair.
OK. I am at wits end. I got the 1452 code twice this weekend. It happens after start #3 after clearing it and about 15 minutes into the drive. I think the air pump is working fine. I can here it whine on start up. I can here the by pass valve open and close as I drive the car even after the CEL is on. so it's getting vaccum The solenoid valve tested fine a couple weeks ago. The vacuum lines to the fuel pressure regulators are all new and look fine. What sensor is the system using to measure whatever it is that it is measuring to trigger this code?
(EDIT) The code 1452 is electrical in nature.... "open circuit". Maybe there is a high resistance in the secondary air relay coil circuit. Have you cleaned the relay pins? Also check the yellow/blue wire contacts on the 14 pin connector near the ECU (5.2?) The ECU has no electrical contacts with the solenoid valve itself. It only knows if there is a current flowing through the relay coil.
I think your perspective makes sense. Physically, everything is working correctly. I checked the relay earlier and all was good. Let me take a peak at the ECU connector.
One of my concerns is that the fault code descriptions are derived from the 360. The 360 RH ECU has independent control over the secondary air solenoid and the air pump relay. I don't know for sure if the code description for P1452 is correct for the 355. Note that the 14 pin plug I mentioned earlier is an inline connector between the relay panel and the Motronic ECU. The pin on the ECU itself is pin 57. Image Unavailable, Please Login I suppose you could do a resistance check between the relay socket and the ECU (with shake checks on the wiring). The relay panel itself has a connector, but that is hard to get to. Image Unavailable, Please Login (Ignore the circled wires)
This is what I would do. 1. Check fuse and relay 2. Check the motor itself. Apply 12V to see if it spins, and if air is blasting out the output hose 3. Check the vacuum at the secondary air injection valve to see it is tight. 4. Apply 12V across the air solenoid and see if it opens to the vacuum source 5. See if the solenoid is getting 12V at a cold start up. 6. Check the two one way valves attached to the headers. Somewhere in there is the problem.
Look at line 12, between item 13 and the item 8 on the right hand side for vacuum leaks. Finally, the ECU monitors the O2 sensor on that bank to tell if the secondary air injection system is working or not. Image Unavailable, Please Login