Clutch adjustment Time for clutch adjustment as the pedal is getting rather heavy and out of spec. Disconnected all linkages and make sure the cable runs freely Measuring the spec of 2mm is near impossible to get accurately so decided to make up a measuring tool , rather crude i know, but it works Pic 1 The rubber grommet fits snugly over the retaining nut and the pointer is set to the centre of the upper pivot point on the cam cover location. This draws a centre reference line with the crank bolt on the casing and the top spring mounting point. The small offset bracket can now be used to determine a 2 - 10mm max range by adjusting the clutch arm rod to suit whilst making sure the thrust bearing inside the clutch housing is clear of the diaphragm springs. I set the clearance of 4mm and this gives about 2mm at the bearing. Had a lot of trouble setting up the cable as it had stretched over the years so adjustment under the servo housing was necessary to take out the slack. Nice light clutch and in spec now!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Excellent tool Tony, thanks for sharing. I will take the liberty to copy it for own use. I will soon have to re-install my engine that's out for service. Adjusting that clutch is more trial and error than a engineered project so your tool will come handy. Is that a L-series engine? By the way I also made a special tool today for changing valve collets with head insitu. Rough tool but cheap and works like a charm. Best, Peter Image Unavailable, Please Login
I love these solutions Peter, it shows great engineering application - as you say so long as it works then it doesnt matter what it looks like. My car is a E series. The clutch tool is easy to fabricate, i can let you have a rough sketch as it was a bit of trial and error to get it to work, Mk 1 had to be modified because the crank arm hit the small bracket when adjusting it to spec. Once installed it takes about 10 mins to adjust instead of the repeated adjustments to get it right. The biggest headache was to remove the excess slack in the cable as no amount of adjustment made any difference. Make sure the cable is set correctly and all the slack is removed first. The pedal is so much lighter now, i cannot believe i put up with it so heavy for so long, helper spring is now actually doing its job!! Best tony
Great solutions and executions, guys. I too have a lot of rather crude looking "custom"-made tools and equipment I've fabricated over the years (and continuously make more) for various cars/jobs, obviously a bunch for Daytonas, but also for many other makes/models I've worked on in past 4 decades. Some I had to create/engineer to accomplish services on components that "factory" service manuals 50-60 years ago, when they were new, deemed unserviceable and therefor to be replaced with new only, but since that option hasn't been available for several decades... How did it go ? "Necessity is a mother of an ..." Many (or most ?) of my larger "shop equipment" are something I custom fabricated decades ago, either because I couldn't afford or find anything suitable at the time and all continue to work as good as the day I made 'em. Heck, I've even invented and made several non-existent specialty equipment/tools which might have some commercial prospects, but I just haven't had time and money to explore their manufacturing and marketing yet.
Maybe draw a few rough measurements on the close-up picture of the tool. That will give me a very good starting point. Best, Peter
Shouldn't the clutch adjustment be based on measurements at the contact point? The WSM gives tolerances based on that Image Unavailable, Please Login
Adjusting the clutch helper spring is the first step as that determines how heavy the clutch pedal is. Get it in the wrong place and the helper spring isnt doing much until it over centres itself. The 2mm (just as important) at the face of the bearing to diaphragm springs is adjusted by the rod. Getting the cam pivot in the right position is critical to the feel of the clutch and makes for a much better gear change. All i do is adjust the rod untill the bearing touches the diaphragm springs and back out untill you get 2mm. Tony
