Cleaning the valve covers?

I use simple green motors ports version, which is aluminum safe, with toothbrushes and rag
s.

 

And then a coating of ACF 50. It's an aircraft anti-corrosion treatment. Things get a little oily but it keep the crud from really getting going. Don't get it on the belts, they will squeak for a long time.

 

Why get rid of the Italian rust proofing?

You paid $3-8.00 a gallon for the stuff.

 

Getting mine ready for show season...There are just some things you can and can't do without a lot of disassembly, so I just gave it my best shot. As far as liquid...spray bottle with a splash of dishwashing liquid...then very careful and subtle Armor All applied with a brush
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For what it's worth, my engine bay was FILTHY when I got the car, the result of apparent leaks from every sealing surface/orifice, a possible exhaust fire at some point, and so much dirt and crud that my mechanic said it looked like the previous owner went off-roading. I started scrubbing with Simple Green, then Marine Clean, and occasionally Brake Cleaner, and - with some good success - Gunk degreaser. In the end, I found the following:

* Gunk Level III (strongest) turned crud liquid enough to wash or wipe away, but not dissolve it.

*Simple Green didn't work in a diluted state, but reacted with my brushes and discolored my fuel filter housing cap during scrubbing. Also took the black coloring off my fiberglass intake duct (who knew they were clear?).

*Marine Clean was good on the high-quality aluminum block area, but crap on the sand-cast differential housing and clutch bell housing. Only brake clean worked there, but I think it "etched" the metal and made it a bit darker.

Ultimately, tomorrow night, I'm breaking out my new steam cleaning gun. I have bagged up/toweled over the wires and sensitive bits, but I have high hopes. I first got the idea when I sent my old flywheel in for resurfacing, and the shop blasted it clean with steam for inspection. I was so impressed with the results without using chemicals, I decided to give it a try.

I'll post pics tomorrow or Friday, but I must say that after dealing with the fumes and chemical reactions of different cleaners, I'm holding out hope for good ol steam (plus an air gun drying after).

Will report back.

 

DW40 works for everything and it is save for everything even the paint

 

Steam cleaning gun? Tell me more!

 

Found out accidentally that's actually true. Penetrating oils like PB blaster and WD40 will rinse just about anything off, with the side effect that they leave every surface oily no matter how well you wipe down, and they stink.

 

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=l7k5fFm-wIk

Gullible consumer that I am, was sold on it by all their videos of ferrari engine cleaning. That said, I did extensive research on consumer-grade steam cleaners, and this was the only one where large numbers of users could agree that it had a powerful jet, ability to heat up quickly, last a while on a single water fill, AND have a long service life, for about $100 more than competing products that failed on those fronts. I'll report back, but I've got five gallons of distilled water out in the garage waiting for the test run.

 

I uploaded a cell phone vid to Youtube just to give you guys an idea. A little less than 3min. Be patient; there's a payoff.

PRIVATE F-CHAT LINK:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEG0ozIe0fo&feature=youtu.be

 

+1.
I have one and also great for seats, carpet. I was able to remove nail polish which had spilled on a one month old 750 with no damage.

 

It would take me a day to towel over the plug wires and such, but I'm happy to take a stab at the cam covers if you want to see how that works. I truly believe I've at least measurably shortened my life from all the chemicals I've sprayed to clean things, and it's just not worth it, especially when most apparently can etch or change the surface of the original part I'm trying to restore. I noticed tonight that the part is cool and dry to the touch after a few seconds with the steam.

 

I was looking at doing this and it was pointed out to me that the engine is coated with Cosmoline and the steam may remove the protective coating? Anyone have any knowledge on this matter?

 

Cosmoline? I think you are confusing your Ferrari with a WWII Jeep! In a crate. For $50.
Alden

 

What IS that yellow stuff that some 3x8s seem to have?

I have a BMW 318i that had an engine crusted in that crap when I bought it. It had petrified over the years. Its still around.

 

Just going by what I am told. That is why I post here. There is a wealth of knowledge out there and I am trying to soak up as much as possible. I believe they were coated at factory but steaming would have no effect at this point. Glad to hear what others have to say.

 

My BMW 850i M70 engine was coated with that yellow stuff, and after perusing the owner's website (Bimmerforums) the consensus was to use a product called "Citristrip" stripping jell. (Citri-Strip QCG73801T Paint and Varnish Stripping Gel, 1-Quart - Paint Strippers - Amazon.com).

It works, but you have to be careful - apply it with a brush, surround the area with towels, wipe it off with a damp towel, then dry it. Don't let any drips get on hoses, wires, plastic parts, etc.

 

I don't know, but I suspect is it a product that used car dealers use to make stuff under the hood look shiny and new. Seems like a clear coat as it ages and yellows and flakes.

My 308 didn't have any sign of this stuff so I'm thinking it is not factory applied, whatever it is.

 

So why the Vapamore MR-100? Still think that it has adequate duty cycle, pressure, etc?

 

Griot's Engine cleaner is very good, on Ebay for about $11 shipped,
Alden