How expensive are early 70's MB's to maintain? Assuming a car that has been well cared for.
I have been pleasantly supprised at the fair prices for most parts and service jobs on the older cars.
Depending on the model no more expensive than a comparable American car; M100 series can be a nightmare. Stay away from 1964 and later 600 limo and 1968 thru 1972 300SE and SEL air suspension and 6.3. They are wonderful cars for the advanced collector but are a money pit for a starter. 6 Cylinder M130 280SE 280SL are great.
No navigation, climate control or body computers, 5 X fewer wiring harnesses and the ones that are there are much less complex overall, no databus, no ECU's, fewer power switches and motors and cylinders, etc........I'd say half as costly overall, except for the usual major rebuild items (transmission, suspension or engine) that are always expensive regardless. The only risk, and it is minor IMHO, is if you need MB to make you a special part that you cannot repair yourself or find a substitute for anywhere, and MB will fabricate anything, for a price, which you'd rather not hear I'd imagine. Mark is bang on about the cars with their unique suspensions, like the 6.3, 6.9 and Pullmans......they're great if you can drive them daily so they don't fail, but otherwise.........
IMHO and I sold these new and used for an MB dealer from 1995-2002.......the 1997 and later R129's are the best choice $$ wise........SL320 first.......SL600 second........SL500 last. Ignore the earlier cars. They all have a bunch of issues related to their age that are starting to show now, as well as due to their overly complex electronics (wiring harness issues, etc) and hydraulics. Obviously you want to buy the newest lowest mileage latest model you can (2000-2001) to minimize this, along with a good warranty "if possible" and it's not too expensive (a $5K premium for 3 years max). The engines are basically sound, but all the transmissions (both the early 4 speed hydraulic and later 5 speed electronic) and self levelling suspension of the SL600 (rare but it happens and it's $5K+) will both give you trouble and aren't cheap to fix.
Ive got this car for sale: 1971 280SL Sunroof hardtop One of three known to exist. A/C hidden, Cognac Leather, Both tops, 5 piece fitted Louis Vuitton Luggage set, Ski Rack, Luggage roof rack. Car is for sale $105K OBO Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yes.........the best car you could buy "if it was me" would be a low mileage concours 1986-89 560SL........avoid the 1980-1985 380's......the 70's 450's are fine if they are low mileage and sound (and few are). All of them are cheap right now relative to the earlier cars. Buy it right and hold one for 5-10 years and you won't lose anything IMHO. Red/Beige is the best combo followed by Black/Beige......DO NOT BUY SADDLE (it's like Cuoio, or the Cognac in Mark's car) as that only works with the even older cars like his 280, etc.
Keep in mind that the 107 body cars are the highest production of all the SL line so far; 1972 thru 1989 producing 400,000+ units so they are not rare but 113 bodied 280SL production was only 23000 units total.
On the 113 based 230-250-280 SLs you need to be very carful of the BOSCH mecahnical fuel injection. Its basically a 6 plunger mechanical engine attached to side of main engine. Its built like a swiss watch, it can be tuned for everything from altitude to humidity. HOWEVER, water will seize it and cost your min. $2500-4000 to rebuild. Key is to use Stabil at every refil, as todays etahanol attracts more water, and fuel breaks down in 30 days. Otherwise, they can be bullet proof, and the Mercedes CLassic Centre in Irivine, CA has every single nut and bolt index and catalogued...some for pennies.
The Bosch mechnical injection system is not an issue at all just when the car sits for more than a year or two they have a tendency to get gummed up. I soak the whole unit in a vat of hot trans fluid overnight and its works perfect in the morning. Not $4000. Rebuild at Pacific fuel injection is about $800.
Pacific is $800 for shipping it over, with core exchange. To have the Injection pump removed, re-installed, and have injectors replaced (common) is going to cost alot more than $800. Not to mention to have it set up, tuned, and have cold start valve set with new pump, and have geometry of all linkages set correctly. Again not $800; if it were tons of 113 SL would be doing it yearly; not playing with theirs, tryin to free up the rack, and playing with the adjustment knob to save a trip to rebuild. Most of these SLs do sit, and avg less than 1000 miles a year; in addition the gas guage has a deceiving reserve indicator rather tha "E", and resereve light than many dont get to lite up, so it has extra 2 gallons when it reads R or Empty. That keeps getting topped up, rather than letting fuel run down to bottom. So foul fuel, rusty tanks, and particulates jamming screens and other components are common. The injection pump, and its assorted connections: cold start valve, warm running device, linkages are the most cited issue on the largest SL 113 forum.
