458 Catastraphic failure of steering rack

so , I was trying to install a bolt on one of the front fender liners and asked my bud to turn the steering wheel for me when the engine's off and key on II.

I heard a little breaking sound and then a few min later i saw a pool of red fluid on the floor.
Started car, and there's no power steering.
added at least 1 liter of ATF and power steering resumes, and I see the leaking is from the RH end of the steering rack.
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so , removing the steering rack is the next thing to do.
remove the luggage frunk first. a line of bolts at the bottom and a few screws inside,
since the 458 is such a storied car, that I don't even have to remove the windshield panels under the hood to remove the luggage frunk tub. See, crashes does have silver lining. The side panels under the hood has very few clips to hold them down, that's why.

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next is to remove the rod ends connected to the wheel hub carrier.
I put that nut back onto the rod end so that I don't lose it to demonstrate that I am such a weekend warrior.
17mm banner ( or wrench?) and a hex tool( forgot how many mm, maybe 4mm or 5mm) to hold the rod.


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next is to remove the front stablizer bar.
to do this, first is to remove the 17mm nut on the endlinks on each side, see pic.
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next , you can remove the 2x 13mm screw at the bottom of the chassis, on each side

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Now the stablizer bar can be freely removed from car, but you don't have to do this. Just wait until you got the steering rack loose and it can stay here and just be wiggled a bit to make space.

 

now, looking from the LH (driver side for USA, passenger side for UK), you'll see this. Remove the connector and the 2x banjo bolts. the bolts are 22mm and 17mm if my memory serves me.
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now, look from the front of the car towards the back of the car, you'll see in front of the shining steering rack's main body, there's a black recirculation valve. Remove it from its bracket since it'll be in the way when removing the steering rack. Don't need to disconnect any connector or any clamp. Just dislodge it from the bracket. My bracket is actually half missing as you can see from this pic.

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now, go inside of your driver's cabin, down low, you'll see this connection between your steering column and your steering rack.
turn your steering wheel until you can see the bolt's head facing upwards like in the next pic. I found this position to be the easiest for its removal.
13mm. Remove it.
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Using a blue marker , I did mark it just to make my self happy， although I don't think it could be of any use later when I install it. Anyway.
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remove the 2 bolts and nuts on each side that hold the steering rack to the chassis. I think the size is 17mm for bolts and 15mm for the nut on top, I can't be 100% sure though.
sorry I didn't take any pic for this one.

wiggle the stabilizer bar, wiggle the steering rack. wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle.
then you can remove the steering rack from the LH side (driver for USA, passenger for UK) of the car.
be careful not to damage that solenoid's black plastic on its way out.
Oh yea, this whole thread is for a RHD car such as those in the US or China.

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in total, removing the rack took me 4 hours ( 2 days. 3 hours in the first day, 1 hour the 2nd day) .
Hand tools. No helper. got something to eat after the removal.

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They sell these seals in china so I bought them. total of 4 seals. 2 for the sides and 2 for top and bottom.

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after careful examination, the 2 seals that don't have specs shown are like this. anyone in manufacturing can explain these numbers?
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edit:
found the pic for the bolts and nuts that securing the steering rack to the chassis. Pic showing only 1 bolt from the driver side(LH), the other one is blocked and the 2 nuts on top of the bolts are blocked too

here
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its at least 1 liter of ATF pool in a few minutes. I'd think that's a catastrophe for me since I can't drive it no more.

 

i think yea. although i don't have any evidence...

 

so, today I began to disect it. remove these 4 bolts first.

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revmove this big bolt at the back

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remove this nut
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now this thing can be removed
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now, remove the ball joints
looks like mine was worked on before.
unlike my nissan's steering rack I worked on, there's no provision for a regular wrench , so a big ass pipe wrench is needed
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now the steering rack looks like this:
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if you look closely from the RH side, push the rod all the way in and look into the casing, you'll see this. The 2 holes are provision for the circlip plyers to be inserted and rotate the thing.
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on the casing, you'll see this small opening.
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Rotate the circlip plier provisioned thing and you'll see a clip to be rotated out of the opening, like this
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and then this
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and then this
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now its time to remove the rod completely from the casing.

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then its time to replace the seals. What a day. took me 5 hours to figure this out