carb cars that start without the choke

The accelerator pumps add fuel, which does it for my car, 365 gt. Its jetted properly for normal running temps.

 

Most of the non choke practitioners hold a little throttle at a cold idle to keep it going. They also tend to be practitioners because the choke operation system is often troublesome and just easier to go without.

As far as hot start problems that is largely caused by the horse piss gas forced upon us by our government. These cars were never designed to run on it and a non pressurized system like carburetors are have troubles with it. We didn't really have much of a problem with real gas.

 

My Miura didn't have chokes, just a few pumps of the throttle and it fired right up. I don't remember having any issues with starting when it was warm. I am afraid I sold it a few years ago when repair hassles exceeded driving pleasure.

 

36DCZ's on Tdf's have no choke plate. Cold weather start requires more than a few
pumps. 110 octane no-lead helps.

 

Works like a charm if things are set right.

 

On a 250 engine with 42DCL Webers You don´t need the chokes/enrichment circuits. Just prime them shortly, press the key and slightly press the pedal. Than just keep it running at 1500-2000 for some seconds and thats it.

On the Dino it is the same. Maybe better, as I´m better at setting up on this.



Than I have an ERA Mini Turbo. This has a SU blow through carb and it is not easy to start.

When cold, You need to run the starter for some time, until You have oil pressure (like that feauture). Than the Fuel Pump will work long enough to fill the Carb Bowl (it has a secondary Fuel Pump circuit, but as soon as the engine is running, and still no fuel pressuere, it dies).

When it is running (with chocke) it really fast getting to rich. So after about 5-8 seconds You have to take the Choke out again. But than the Idle isn´t altered enough to keep running and the engine has to be kept alive "by foot".

 

After the "three pumps of the gas pedal, then crank" approach, I hold the gas pedal one third of the way open.

Then I watch the revs climb, as all of those chilly plugs join in, and begin firing.

That takes the idle up to 3L to 4K, which, in my Owners Manual, is ok!

The last shop to start my car, using the choke, broke the console lever loose from the cable, rendering it inoperable, and then knocked the rear view mirror off the windshield.

Hope your luck is better!

It's well documented that a Choke malfunction ON once the engine heats up, can melt the muffler right off the car...Dr. Barry got a free one, from Classic Coach when they made the mistake.

On the early 308s, the Amber dash light labeled "SPARE" in the OM, is actually linked thru the console plate lever, to ground when the Choke is mistakenly left ON. I guess on Barry's 'glass car they had not had that idea, yet.

 

When I had a GT4, all I did was pump it 3 times, crank it over, and it fires right up. Granted, I live in California, and the car had electronic ignition replacing the point and condenser. No chokes were needed.

 

That was all I had to do in my '77 GTB too, and I live in Canada. I did drive it on cooler days, but never winter obviously.

 

They will all start without them, heck most never worked properly from new. How ever, trying to start an SU equipped British car without the choke is quite amusing. They in fact needed it and it worked.

 

I NEVER used the choke on my 246. Just a pump on the gas pedal and then turn the key. When warm crank and slowly move the gas pedal down until it fires.

246's always start on less than 6 cylinders and cough a little. It's part of their charm.

 

If you've ever had a Weber carb off the engine and exercised the throttle you'd understand why they don't need a choke... The accelerator pump will shoot a stream of fuel about 8 to 10 feet, pretty much like a squirt gun that we had when we were kids.. In 20/20 hindsight, probably a nasty way to wash the oil off of the cylinder walls, but it's plenty of fuel to start most anything...