Can low battery cause erroneous error messages?

Yuuuupp!

I had multiple ASR errors and other weird warning lights and it was caused by an old battery years ago.

This is the first thing I'll do, swap batteries.

 

I had this happen last winter, battery was 7 years old. Called Matt at FOA and he told me they recommend the Interstate MT7-34R AGM battery. Bought one for about $275 and it fixed all the weird things happening to the car. Make sure you turn the cut off switch in the front before you remove the battery. Also, after you put the new battery in the drive cycle will have to be completed before you can pass emissions. I had driven mine for 5 months (over 1000 miles) and the drive cycle still had not been completed. Tried it myself and could not do it, took it to FOA and they were able to get the drive cycle completed, it can be tricky to complete correctly.

 

Mine was Interstate too and they replaced it through warranty coverage. They verified that there was a dead cell or something molecular unit in then battery.

They replaced it and since then I started utilizing trickle charger. Never happened again.

 

Battery "tenders" are not the same as battery "chargers." Tenders are not really made to recharge but to maintain a decent charge. A charger will provide more current to bring the battery back to where it belongs more quickly.

Charging any battery at the slowest acceptable rate (lowest current) is always the best for battery longevity. It's a matter how how quickly you MUST have it fully charged.

 

A battery tender can eventually charge a dead battery. Some circuits work on threshold voltage so if the voltage isn't there, false logic (digital) can result.

Plus it seems Germany's Bosch ECUs lose IQ points when it is inserted an Italian steed.

Here's a trend I have noticed about my 360... it is more likely to trigger a CEL when it has less than a half a tank of fuel. I have checked for stored codes and nothing comes up. If I go through the reset procedure and fill it up, the CEL doesn't come back. I have even tried to replicate what I was doing and nothing.

I'm on my third "half-tank" fill-up since the last CEL incident and all is clear. Weird.

 

Low battery in these cars can cause all sorts of issues.

 

You guys keep reusing these batteries that should be replaced. Can afford a Ferrari but don't replace a $120 battery. Then you get these funky electrical warnings and presume that the cars are junk. 1) Tenders won't charge a battery 2) if a battery has drained to the paint of death.. GET A NEW ONE. The electrochemical reaction is depeted. It'll never be 100% again. Then.. you overheat your alternator diodes trying to charge a crap battery. 1-2 years later the alternator or cable needs replacing.

My car has NEVER had a CEL or ANY electrical funkiness.. because I replace my battery with a new one every 3-4 years! Hint: It also saves your alternator!

 

Sure Curt... let me guess, you probably replace your timing belts every 3-5 years, when they are perfectly good!! ; ) LOL...

 

Oh no. I make an exception for the battery.

Per usual used Ferrari ownership protocol, my belt service interval is NEVER or engine seizes. Whichever comes first. Back in the day I owned my Honda Civic for 25 years and never changed a timing belt.

RedNeck, not to put you on the spot.. I just read it soon often on this board. Something is causing a draw. Check for stereo equipment (Amps, etc.) and tracking devices, the usual culprits. When I first bought mine I went through and found not one but two devices hand twisted into the wiring loom, covered with electrical tape. Cold weather can also make things wonky.. I suspect by diminishing the battery output.

 

A weak battery can/will bring about "false positive" codes. Get them cleared and ensure the battery maintains its charge and the codes shouldn't return unless there is a fault.
To clarify, a trickle charger can charge a weak battery but can't maintain a battery that is past it's prime. A new battery is needed.

 

Still worth testing. Radio equipment installers do the dumbest things. Car should have no more than 25 or so mA draw.


vrsurgeon's advice on batteries is a very good one. I also advocate plugging the car into a quality tender every time you park it. Lots intend to drive the car tomorrow and tomorrow comes in a week or two. Many modern cars have small 100+ amp alternators including all Ferraris built since the TR and those little alternators have the same thing in common, they are electronically fragile and simply cannot survive constantly being used in a car with a compromised battery. Damage to them is so common we test every single cars charging system and a high percentage put out below spec because of that. We keep an alternator repair shop busy because of those tinker toy alternators. No test but a load test on an alternator is worth doing. If it will not go past 125 amps easily it is circling the drain.

 

I agree with vrsurgeon also. Just not worth it. I replace my battery every 3 years regardless

 

Also worth cleaning up your mailbox Lorenz. Can't respond to your PM.

 

100% can and will
A low battery in my 911 wont even charge (air cooled weak alternator) even causes backfire

You'll throw codes.

I use a battery tender trickle charger in the 911.

full charge it use a multimeter see if it holds 12.6 volts about clear codes and see if they return

 

All clean....sorry

 

Not the ones I own. If the battery voltage is too low to start with the battery tender will not even try to charge the battery. I think that's what you're saying regarding the threshold voltage.