The pin/solenoid with the red stick clicks a little quieter and less vigorously than the others. My common sense says with a properly working pump producing pressure (which it is) I should get fluid out of the rear port either just by the pump running or pushing the pedal and or both. I'm going to. 1. pull out and clean that master switch. 2. see if I can pull off the ABS block with the MC still in the car (looks tight) then see what kind of pedal travel I have and how the fluid comes out of the MC prior to it going through the ABS block. I'll try to find and swap out the ABS block. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ok, well it doesn't come out with either. So lets assume I can get the ABS block out with the MC still in the car. I confirm that fluid is flowing (internally) through both the front and rear circuits of the MC, meaning the blockage of the rear port exists in the ABS block. Technically I could gut the ABS block by removing the valves/solenoids, replace the now hollow ABS block and the system would operate as a convention NON ABS system right? The ABS block simply modulates the in/out pressure of the fluid to stop any given wheel from locking up. Thanks At least at the end of this I'll know the ABS system inside and out
No. Some valves (inlets) are normally open and could be bypassed. The ones that are normally closed (returns) must remain closed.
To detach the valve block, you need to remove only the 3 nuts (see the attached Jaguar Bulletin); the 3 Torx head bolts hold the valve block cover to the block body. If you find that there is a bad valve inside and if it is beyond repair, here are the possibilities to get another valve block: 1. Buy a complete used Jaguar XJ40 or XJS MC 2. Buy (if you can find) a used Ford Lincoln Mark VII 86-89 MC 3. Buy a new Jaguar valve block JLM11336 (https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/uk/search/results?pageNo=1&query=JLM11336&excludeTurnedDown=false or https://parts.jaguarvirginiabeach.com/oem-parts/jaguar-kit-valve-block-jlm11336). The block is usually "by special order" so check if really still available. As you intend to become an expert for this ABS system, I have also attached a few other documents for it.
I've been watching this thtead and I'm still astonished at the road that everyone has gone down to try to solve this problem. I still believe it is the rear rubber brake hoses that are causing this problem. Strange things happen over time... they are 20 years old are subjected to heat from breaking heat from the spaghetti exhaust running right near them heat from the cat's heat from the engine lots of heat and they deteriorate over time and although you may be getting flow when you crack loose the fitting when pressurized fluid tries to go through them they swell and choke and do not allow flow. I had this exact same problem on a car before. Just my two cents. They are less than $40 each.
Thank you this was a good tip to check but I did check them days ago and there is/was no issue with the lines
So good news & bad news. I pulled and cleaned the master switch I pulled and cleaned the ABS block and solenoids. I had fluid flow through all holes in the MC so I feel fluid is passing within the MC as it should. The solenoids were pretty bad. In the process of cleaning the bottom one directly above the rear port the electric ribbon ripped. I cant say for sure if it ripped during the cleaning or was actually ripped before. So once that ribbon ripped I felt at a minimum I needed to find a replacement ABS block. As such i decided to try my bypass theory. I had not read John K's post at that point and I drilled out all of the solenoids and reinstalled the ABS block. I now have flow and full pedal travel with the system connected but cant build overall pressure because I drilled out the return solenoids. So at this point its wait for/find a new ABS block. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Failures of the Valve Block on the Jaguars was not uncommon thus the Jaguar Bulletin providing info about replacing it. Due to many cases of the block failures, Jaguar made the Valve Block a separate part (initially it was not separately available) in order to avoid replacing the whole MC assembly. Just found this info listing cars that had the same MC/ABS system: Ford Cars 1985 to 1989 Lincoln Continental 1985 to 1992 Lincoln Mark VII 1987 to 1992 Ford Thunderbird 1987 to 1992 Mercury Cougar 1988 to 1989 Merkur Scorpio GM Cars 1986 to 1989 Buick LeSabre 1986 to 1990 Buick Electra, Park Avenue 1986 to 1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 1986 to 1990 Cadillac DeVille 1986 to 1990 Oldsmobile 98 1986 to 1990 Pontiac 6000 STE 1988 to 1989 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville 1988 to 1989 Buick Reatta, Riviera 1988 to 1990 Pontiac Bonneville & SSE 1988 to 1990 Oldsmobile Delta 88, Toronado European Cars 1988 to 1991 Peugeot 505 1991 to 1993 Saab 900 1987 to 1993 Saab 9000 1991 to 1993 Volkswagen Passat
Not a valid test for the rears unless the system is pressurized and the pedal depressed. The rear chamber in the MC is ported to the reservoir so fluid will enter it and will run out the rear port w/o the pedal pressed. But that doesn't mean the high pressure throttling valve, which pressurizes the rear system, is working. The system has to be pressurized and the pedal depressed to open the HP valve. But be careful because w/o the ABS block on you will have high pressure fluid spraying all over when you depress the brake pedal.
You might want to check this out. https://www.suburbanautoparts.com/oem-parts/jaguar-kit-valve-block-jlm11336?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D
What is the kit, seals and the like? Lots of jag posts on rebuilding the abs block btw, example https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xjs-x27-32/repairing-teves-abs-actuator-master-1990-xjs-v12-photos-140828/
Jaguar JLM11336 kit is a complete Valve Block including seals between the block and the MC: Image Unavailable, Please Login And came with these seals: Image Unavailable, Please Login This is the picture of the front of the Jag block (used one that I have): Image Unavailable, Please Login
There is a new Lincoln ABS block on Ebay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Out-Of-Box-E6LY-2C266-B-ABS-Valve-Block-1989-1992-Lincoln-Mark-VII/183494332192) which can be used on the 348. Its connector is differently orientated than the Jag one. It also has different connector plastic guide tabs so the 348 harness connector cannot be directly plugged in but the original 348 short extension harness can be soldered to the pins. I do not know the solenoid resistances of the Lincoln block but they are probably same as what the 348/Jag valve blocks have. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just curious if you have made any progress on this brake problem? Have you read the thread titled : Rear) Brake pressure stuck - not hoses, nor calipers Apparently the delay valve and regulator where are blocked with sludge. My brakes I feel are a little sticky and in the Rears and I'm considering removing and cleaning this particular valve which I was unaware of.
