Brake line fitting (female) is on the low side. I've contacted the supplier but of course they have to evaluate the line themselves before taking further action. That means I'll be off the road for at least 2 more weeks. Below is a pic of the standard M10x1.0 brake fitting making contact with the brake line female major diameter on the bad end.....and on the tapered section no less. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sam, sorry to hear you are having issues. I didn't measure the Porterfield pads before I installed but their website shows the rear pads to be 14.5 mm total thickness (including backing plate). If you were in a pinch or wanted to stick with the Ferodo I'm sure a machine shop could mill some material off the pads--14.5-15 mm would probably put you where you need to be. For reference/research the ATE PNs are in the first attachment I posted above (but it doesn't sound like you want ATE pads): FRONT: ATE PN 250077 or 13.0441 4009.2 REAR: ATE PN 250048 or 13.0441 3406.2 I highly recommend the Porterfields if you have to find an alternative for the Ferodo. My ATE's were OK but created a lot of black brake dust--the Porterfields produce very little and lighter in color and they stop great. PHOTOS: Top left: Porterfield AP 32 specs Top Right: Porterfield AP 32 pads installed (notice pads are not fully in contact with pistons) Middle left: Porterfield AP 32 pads installed Middle right: original ATE pads installed (semi-worn) Bottom left: pad comparison: LH = ATE, RH = Porterfield Bottom right: pad comparison: LH = Porterfield, RH = ATE Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
No probs Tim. I tried to order the ATE but they were on back order. I took Turbo Joes advice and went for the Ferodo since they were in stock. My originals are the same as what you stated as "Ferrari Recommended" (GALFER 1725 FF) in your write up. I think I have also added confusion regarding the thickness. I was only measuring the friction material rather than everything including the backing plate. I'll measure both the original and Feroda and report back.
Sounds good Sam. My other thought was maybe the caliper spacers were different thickness front to back (I never checked) but A) you said your fronts looked good and B) I assembled my spacers with no regard to front/back since they were mixed up during plating so they must all be the same thickness. Anyway, sorry for the delays, that sucks.
Original ATE measured ~11.6mm New Ferodo measured ~ 18.6mm Piston to piston gap at rear caliper ~ 63.7mm Metal plates (2x) ~0.7mm total Rotor ~30mm A quick stack up gives us ~33mm for pads or 16.5mm per side. I'm starting to think the 14.5mm is correct. That would leave me with about 2mm gap between the rotor and pads/side as new with the pistons fully retracted. I also checked the spacers. They are all bang on 20mm. Last pic is a new Ferodo front pad. There's that magic 14.5mm again...... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I think you are on track with the pads and your analysis--the replacements should do the trick. Sucks you have to wait but it gives you some time to clan up those rotors
those numbers you put in here are those for the repair kit for the calipers, not the brake pads. I just had a look at the parts catalog from ATE
Find someone with a milling machine and machine down to thickness. I know this is not correct, but will get you back on the road.
I'd rather throw the originals back on before milling the new ones down. That will likely cost me more than the pads are worth besides it introduces unnecessary risk. I have forwarded all my findings onto the supplier and awaiting a response. From my perspective, there is no way these pads fit this car.
My good fortune just keeps coming Here are my laters delivered pads (front this time). Not even close. Should I start machining these? All is being made good. Anyway, does anyone know what they belong to? Don't go by the box, they were mislabeled. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sam, sorry to hear of the additional delays--I have no idea what those are for but you're right, the box is correct
I wonder about the 2 different designs at the ends??? never have seen before that the fixing of the inner pad ( 1 "nose", so where the piston is ) is so much different than the outer pad those with the 2 "noses" each end should be for AUDI, this with only 1 "nose" could be for BMW there is no number on the pads? then I would not use them, may be cheap aftermarket? and the pad when hot will get destroyed? so be careful ! ! !
Very strange. The guys at PMB were apologetic and took to the task of fixing things up quickly. ha, you're right. No numbers other than the hand inscribed "82" Image Unavailable, Please Login
Owwww ... bad luck Sam ! .... but keep your Head UP ! At the end you will have perfect brakes again ... I am sure !
Finally received the correct pads from Porterfield and they look great. Unfortunately, I broke one of the Caliper Pins trying to reassemble them. Ricambi and T. Ruthlands ask to call which tells me they're likely out of stock but I've heard these are common calipers used on MB, BMW and Porsche so if anyone has a cross reference for these, that would be great. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm finally done. SWEET. So here's a summary of the job I did. Started off thinking I can refurbish the calipers myself using tips from around here and 302Tim's concise work instructions. Unfortunately, all but one piston were seized so I decided to sent them all to PMB Performance to do it instead. I tried bleeding the brakes using a Mitivac which took a good 2 hrs. I waited a few days before mounting my wheels back on so I decided to check brakes just to be sure. Wouldn't you know it, the pedal just about sunk to the floor. James (Veedub) suggested I just do it the old fashion way by having someone else press the pedal whilst I bled. Worked like a charm. Anyway, I called Ferrari regarding the knock-off wheel placement procedure and contrary to what I've read, they advised that I actually lube the spline, thread and taper with moly grease. First pic attached is the knock off with the original grease placed on by Ferrari during the last service a year ago. Second pic is the same one cleaned and the third is the hub splice, thread and taper lubed. If this is not the correct procedure, please advise. After that, I set the torque, took it for a drive (including pad bedding) and checked torque again. All looks OK so far including brake pedal feel. Although it's a relatively easy job, I couldn't have done it without you guys especially Robbie (Chairman) graciously sending me a couple of caliper pins. I should also mention that PMB were able to supply me with a few original brake bleeders since some of mine were destroyed during the disassembly and the alternative ones they provided were a little long and off color. In all, the entire job should cost <$1300. Here's the breakdown: $750 for complete caliper refurbishment (PMB) $200 for set of pads (Porterfield) $300 for steel braided lines (Goodridge) $20 for grease and fluids Again, thanks to everyone around here for their help and guidance. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Glad to see you have her back on the road. Always glad to help. I have a special thanks to 302tim as well as he helped me out with some starter solonoid screws. Great section of Ferraichat. I'm almost 4 years without my TR and I still enjoy being part of this section. TR brother for life. Lol. R
Same with me Robbie .... still reading here daily ! And helping if needed ! We also are TR brother for life.
