Spline couplings.. No ring nuts to deal when removing the bell housing/transfer case assembly. John did a great Boxer clutch replacement tread see: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=168509&highlight=Clutch+Replacement Dave
Dave - Yours is a wonderful writeup. Thank you for your effort. May I ask a question? I quote you below. "The flywheel is installed (photo 8). Since the bolts do not call for a locking device, I used Locktite blue (removable) threadlock. The workshop manual states a torque of 3.1 kgm which has a conversion of 23 ft lbs according to this on-line conversion calculator http://mdmetric.com/tech/tech4/torqcalc3.htm" Twenty-three foot pounds seems a bit light for flywheel bolts, and my calculations on a class 12.9, 10mm x 1.25 thread (a guess at your flywheel bolts), would call for at least twice this torque. The clamping pressure on the flywheel bolts is critical. The Loctitie may well prevent them from vibrating loose, but clamping pressure is an entirely different mechanical engineering issue. Your thougths? Jim S.
Jim, Funny you should notice this...as I wondered, as well. I took a look in my (well-used) BB workshop manual, and low and behold it has the same error as Dave ran across. I have made correction notes that state that the flywheel bolts are really 10x1.25mm (not 8x1.25mm, as printed)should be torqued to 8.5kg-m, versus the 3.3 kg-m, as stated. This number makes much more sense, particularly considering the size and grade of the hardware. The pressure plate bolts are 8x1.25mm and should be torqued to 3.3 kg-m. The 308 cars use the same size flywheel mounting hardware...and also specifies the 8.5 kg-m toque spec. Regards, David
Thanks for catching this guys. Great you commented. I have made the correction prior to installing the clutch assembly. Thought something wasn't quite right. Dave
Dave B. - As best expressed by that great Ferrari mechanic Burt Bacharach, "...That's what friends are for..." Jim S. and David F.
For a 308 maintenance project, I made a few cam drive ring nut sockets. I like the idea of treating the hardware with as much care as possible. I made them from 420 stainless steel, and cut them with a CNC machine, heat treated to Rc 52, and electropolished. A bit of effort, but the resulting tools look good, and work great. I believe these will work for the 512BB/BBi. I'm going to find out soon enough when I get underway. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
dave, i continue to follow this thread with absolute amazement. very impressive, and thanks very much for documenting it all for us.
Quite a bit more elaborate than the one's I made which are rude and crude in comparision. None the less, as long as they do the job. Thanks for sharing on this thread. Dave
A big thanks to Jim & David for catching the flywheel bolt torque error in the workshop manual. A loose flywheel spinning at high speed could make for a really bad situation. The flywheel bolts were loosened and retorqued to 62 ft lbs (8.5kgF-M). The next and final component on the engine prior to engine installation was to install the clutch assembly. The 512BBI has twin discs along with a central pressure plate. All components were identifed for orentation during disassembly. The aluminum external spacer is installed first, then the ridgid hub disc is installed against the flywheel. The central pressure plate is installed using the flywheel mounted locating pins to retain the central pressure plate during installation. Since the wear totals are nearly 50% of the original thickness, the factory spacer washers will be left out. The disc with the spring hub is installed, then the stamped pressure plate is installed hand tightening the 8x1.25 mm retaining nuts only (photo 1). Peering through the output shaft bores you can see the splines for both clutch discs and pilot bearing (photo 2). Since the pressure plate is not tightened at this point, the clutch plates and splines can be rough aligned by shifting the plates with finger pressure. Once centered and rough aligned, the output shaft (attached to the bell housing) is used for final alignment by simply sliding the bell housing in place. A little wiggling on the bell housing is all it takes to get it to align. Once satisfied with the alignment, the bell housing is removed and the nuts are tightened. The bell housing is installed again to ensure proper alignment, removed and the 8x1.25 mm nuts are torqued to 23 ft lbs. The engine is now ready for installation. The bell housing and transfer case will be installed to the engine after the engine is installed. While waiting for our weekend weather to improve to install the engine, I worked on cleaning up the headers a bit to remove road grime. Using a mild caustic solution, a fine Scotchbrite pad and water, I noticed traces of a dark gray or (dark bronze?) finish on the headers (photo 3). Unknown if this is an original finish or not. Could have been applied during the last major. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave - you mentioned, in passing, an important principle. When retorqueing the flywheel bolts, you first loosened them and then brought them to the proper specification. Seems obvious, and I assume most do the same when torqueing, but the principle of sliding friction verus static friction comes into play here. To set the stage for the next paragraph, think about pushing a heavy box across the floor. It takes more effort to start the box in motion then to keep it in motion. Static versus sliding friction. The common application of the same principle is anti-lock braking systems. Turning a nut on a threaded bolt is nothing more than pushing a box up a long, spiral ramp. The challenge comes when retorqueing head bolts. Assume they are to be set at 60 foot-pounds. During your major, you decide (right or wrong) to retorque the heads (since you have everything exposed...why not?). You apply your torque wrench and find that at 60 foot-pounds they do not move. Good, that job is finished. However, the bolts-nuts may have only been at 40 foot-pounds (for example), and the increased static friction that had to be overcome held them from turning at 60 foot-pounds. If you had gone to 70 foot-pounds, the nut may have turned, and then the torque wrench would have read lower than 60 foot-pounds. Hence the discussion about retorqueing head bolts. Do you brake them loose first, and then achieve the specified torque while continuously moving the nut? Or should one not break them loose first (for fear of disrupting the head gasket seal), and risk an inaccurate reading owing to static friction. Of course, we are speaking of one bolt at a time. In addition, most torque specifications are defined for a dry bolt, un-oiled. Finally, torque specifications are used to accomplish, first and foremost, proper clamping pressure and second to avoid distortion (stretching and fatigue) of the bolt. Anyway... great work and great write-up. Thanks. Jim S.
The weather improved today with no snow in the forecast and warmer temps in the 30's. This morning I prepped the engine and rolling chassis for engine installation. The car needed to be removed from the lift and the lift ramps removed. The car was backed into the garage and the rear cross beam raised over the engine (photos: 1,2, & 3). Using a different procedure for installation than removal, the bell housing and transfer case were left off (to be installed after the engine). This gives a few more inches of clearance so the A/C compressor can be fully installed with the engine. Using a fresh A/C belt, the tension was set, and all hardware tightened. Since the A/C compressor was installed, a nylon strap was used to install the engine since the forward chain attachment point was one of the A/C compressor's tensioning bolt holes. The engine is raised using the lift's cross beam high enough to clear the top frame and the car is rolled rearward (photos 4,5, & 6). Without the bell/transfer case installed, buys a few more inches of clearance front to back (photos 7 & 8). The engine is lowered slowly (photo 9) and a wooden 2x4 is placed under the differential housing (photo 10) providing forward engine tilt to clear the package shelf overhang (photo 11). The engine is set into position with light pressure (photo 12) allowing the rear mount bolts (photo 13) to be inserted through the pads with washers and nylock nuts hand tightened only. The forward mounts are then secured with bolts washers and locknuts. All mounting hardware are tightened. The engine mounting is now complete (photo 14). All went well without a hitch and was completed by noon. The ramps were reinstalled and the car returned on the lift. Piece of cake! Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave, how are you getting all that aluminum so clean? The timing belt covers and the intake runners look great, what's your secret or process? Any hints?
This is probably best left for a separate dedicated thread due to the level of involvement. The top side of the engine wasn't touched during this major with the exception of checking the oil in the compressor and changing the spark plugs. I did an extreme detail on the top side a couple of years ago while chasing a CIS issue. All top side components were removed cleaned, and inspected. Some required only cleaning. Others required refinishing. The cleaning was done the old fashioned way. Simple Green, small brushes, and tons of "elbow grease". It's the only way to get a high level of detail. Dave
Awesome thread! You can also use something called "coil clean" to clean the aluminum, but becareful with that stuff..it's an acid but will do a good job at cleaning the engine, just got to wash/rinse it off with water real good.
The gearbox and transfer case were drained prior to engine removal and is now is filled with 9.5 qts of fresh gear oil through the filler plug. A few ounces are also added to the transfer case. The level will be checked once all components are installed and fluids added. The bell housing is prepped for installation fitting new o-rings to their seats with a thin film of silicone to secure them in place. The silicone is allowed to cure prior to fitting the bell housing. The shaft spines are visually checked for wear and or any signs of misalignment (uneven wear). The splines show light, but even normal wear. Prior to inserting the shaft, the splines are given a few drops of gear oil. The shaft's female end is then inserted into the large bore and engaged with its mating male end. The throw out bearing's inner race is lightly coated with a high quality grease along with the yoke pads and shaft. The bell housing/transfer case is fairly light, so I was able to lift it myself and slide it into place. The washers and 8x1.25 nuts are installed and torqued. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
With a new gasket the oil pump is mounted to the rear of bank 1-6 intake camshaft with washers and nylock nuts (photo 1). The braided hose is installed with a correct worm clamp. My records indicate the clutch cylinder was replaced in 2003 so I don't need to perform any additional preventative maintenance other than an annual bleed of the circuit with fresh (not silicone) brake fluid. The cylinder's hydraulic hose was not disconnected during engine removal. The cylinder is remounted on its studs with two 8x1.25mm nylock nuts and washers. The clevis pin is installed by depressing the push rod up. A fresh cotter retains the clevis pin (photo 3). The ignition distributor was cleaned, rebuilt, and calibrated against the advance curve by Continental Autosports last year. The the lip seal was replaced at that time as well. The flywheel is postioned on cylinder 1, AF18 mark to set static ignition timing (photo 2) and the ignition distributor is installed with the inboard rotor aligned with the red (8 o'clock) line on the distributor housing (photo 3). The 8x1.25mm hex nuts are installed with wave washers along with the mounting bolt, tightened only snug pending dynamic timing using a timing light after the engine is started. The ground, and sensor wires are installed. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The T-Stat (photo 1), aluminum radiator supply & return tubes are installed using new 38mm ID spiral wrapped hose couplings. The area forward of the engine is quite tight so this takes a bit longer than expected. The new SS braided oil hoses are attached to check fit (photo 2). Once the alternators are fitted the fittings will be tighted. The accelerator cable is fitted to the bell crank (photo 3) and adjusted to allow a slight amount of cable slack. A dab of white grease is applied to the ball/sockets. The end caps are tighted to stop, then backed off to allow just enough swivel without binding usually one position. The caps are locked in place with mini cotter pins. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Both alternators were rebuilt by a local shop last year. While there I had them "punched out" by installing 80 amp windings to each, (a Frank Parker suggestion) new brush boxes/voltage regulators and new bearings. The higher performance alternators help to ensure the three cooling fans maintain maximum speed for cooling during urban driving on hot summer days with the A/C on. Both alternators are now installed (photo 1) with fresh drive belts. The fuel distributors, and lines are installed (photo 2). New copper washers are used under the hollow bolts. Lines are tightened and must be checked again after fuel is added to the tanks and under full pressure. Braided elastomer return to tank hoses are also new. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
