After full disassembly, inspection and cleanup of the components: Install a new Lip Seal in the Housing Bore Spring (Pressure side) towards the engine. I use a light coat of Pliobond on the casing O.D. Give the seal lips a light coat of clean engine oil. Install a new Mechanical Seal Stationary Seat & Cup in the Housing Bore The polished face is always installed so it mates with the rotating seal assembly. A light coat of Pliobond is fine to use on the OD of the seat cup. The stationary seat is ceramic so be careful not to crack it during installation. Tap in a new 6002 Inner Bearing Lube the bearing lightly with clean engine oil. Both bearings are SKF 6002 open, ball type. install the spring washers then the snap ring. Insert the bearing spacer and tap in a new 6002 outer bearing. Lube the bearing lightly with clean engine oil. Align the bearing spacer with the outer bearing's inner race and tap in the impeller shaft with gear from the back side of the housing. Install the new mechanical seal's rotating assembly on the small diameter end of the stepped shaft sleeve. Make sure the carbon rotating face is pointed towards the larger shaft sleeve diameter. Pull the tail end of the seal's rubber bellows back flush with the end of the sleeve. The tail end of the rubber bellows is a secondary seal surface and seals against the back side of the impeller. This prevents a leak path between the seal sleeve and the impeller shaft. If prefered, a drop or two of clean antifreeze can be applied to the stationary seat. Slide the shaft sleeve & seal over the impeller shaft. Install the impeller, washer, new lock tab washer, and nut by pressing down on the impeller (compressing the mechanical seal spring) and tighten the nut. At this point you can torque the nut to spec and bend the small end of the lock tab over a flat of the nut, or install the water pump assembly on the engine then torque the nut & bend the lock tab. I will wait & do this on the engine. Check to ensure the shaft rotates freely without any binding. There should be a slight drag from the mechanical seal. Install a new o-ring on the housing. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hey Dave, Great seeing and talking to you last Saturday at the Xmas Party. Nice Job you are doing here, you know, your going to get your major completed and ready to test drive your car and there will be about 3 ft. of snow and ice on the ground with about 6 inches of salt too. But knowing you, you will probably take the longest time polishing everything up before running it... Nice job, love the pictures, Send some to Andreas for next years calendars... Tod
Thanks Tod. I do recognize your sense of humor regarding the snow, salt & ice comment. The BBI or the 308 won't see the road until all that nasty stuff is long gone! Take care, Dave
I took a few days off from this project last week to visit out of state relatives and am now back on it. During this weekend, the following was completed: 1) The 11x1 mm cylinder head acorn nuts were re-torqued to 80 ft.lbs. The nuts were slackened 1/8 of a turn in sequence until completely loose. Then tightened using a standard cylinder head torque pattern in 10 ft lbs intervals to 80 ft lbs. 2) The timing drive gear ring nuts were torqued to 95 ft lbs. 3) The water pump impeller shaft acorn nut was torqued to 20 ft lbs and the lock tab bent over the nut flat. 4) The camshafts for cylinders 1-6 were prepared by installing new oil seals, and the valve shim pads were changed where required. A light coat of clean engine oil was applied to the journals and the camshafts were installed aligning PM1/6 flywheel mark, cam timing marks, and the cam drive gear marks. 5) A new timing belt and tensioner bearing was fitted and tensioned for cylinder bank 1-6. I will need to rotate the crankshaft a few revolutions to double check the tension. 6) A DTI (dial test indicator) was fitted as a "dry run" to cylinder #1 intake valve's shim pad for the upcoming cam degree procedure. The Summit/Proform Degree wheel Kit includes the DTI and fixture so I came up with a way to mount it by using an adapter made from a M6x1 coupling nut found at my local Ace Hardware store. Half of the coupling nut was re-tapped to 1/4-20 to mount to the Proform DTI and fixture. The M6 threaded portion was screwed to a cam cover stud. Cylinder 1 intake & exhaust valve shim pads will need to be re-shimed to .50 mm clearance for the degreeing operation. Ferrari did not provide a cylinder 7-12 TDC mark on the 512's flywheel as they did on Daytona's, so I will probably need to find TDC for cylinder 7 when I get there using a "piston stop" through the spark plug hole unless anyone else can comment on an alternate procedure. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
While multi-tasking during the Christmas holidays and fighting a cold, I was able to squeeze in a few Boxer major tasks. First, I need to correct my last post, since there are a set of flywheel markings for cylinders 7/12. All I had to do is look at the flywheel to locate them. I found the factory recommended timing "check" clearances and the valve degree timing within the 512BBI owners manual, page 11 (Thanks Russ). The factory recommends: Intake opens: 12 deg BTDC (Flywheel mark "AA") Intake closes: 52 deg ABDC Exhaust opens: 54 deg BBDC Exhaust closes: 10 deg ATDC (Flywheel mark "CS") Since my last post, cylinder 7-12 cams were installed after the appropriate new shim pads were installed. The water pump, t-belt, & tensioner bearing were installed and the belt tensioned. The crank balancer was also installed. All valves were checked again for clearances, and now all valves now fall into the mid-high specification with .009"-.010" (intake) and .013"-.014" (exhaust) valve clearances. Cylinders 1 & 7 intake & exhaust valve shim pads were replaced with temporary .020" clearance timing check shim pads. Using a tool I modified with a bent blade covered in plastic tape, and a snap ring with one ear cut off, the snap ring is inserted bridging the cam and the edge of the shim bucket. This allows just enough clearance to remove and replace the shim. The flywheel pointer was located on PM1/6 and the degree wheel was attached to the front pulley using hot glue as a temporary adhesive. This works well as an alternative means for attachment, since a light tug releases the wheel for repositioning. Magnets could also be used. The temporary pointer is installed a "zero'ed" at TDC, as well as mounting the DTI. I also read Bill Badurski's FCA Prancing Horse #151 article for the procedure. Starting with cylinder 1 exhaust, the crank was rotated clockwise (looking towards the back of the engine). The opening was measured. The crank was again rotated to check exhaust close which occurred at 6 deg ATDC. Falling 4 degrees short of the "CS" flywheel mark of 10 degrees ATDC. The exhaust cam dowel pin will need to be repositioned, to gain a 3 degree correction. The cam lock tab washer was bent exposing the 24mm cam pulley bolt. I attempted to use the .0015" feeler gage trick to lock the camshaft to no avail. The bolt was too tight for the feeler gage to hold. The t-belt was removed. Using a spare piece of old belt wrapped around the pulley with a strap wrench, and 24mm socket with a breaker bar the bolt was removed. The pin was punched out through the back side of the flange. Note the Boxer uses only one full (not in addition to a stepped pin) as verified by the parts book. The cam is sync'ed with CS, 10 deg ATDC using the dial indicator. The pin is relocated to the next available matching holes. Reassembly of the bolt, washer, t-belt and tensioner was completed. The degree wheel test was repeated after reassembly. Cylinder 1-6 exhaust cam now has the following readings: Opens: 53 deg BBDC (127 deg wheel reading) Closes: 10 deg ATDC and matches flywheel mark "CS" The same procedure was used to check the cyl 1-6 intake cam except the results do not warrant adjustment. The readings are: Opens: 12 deg BTDC (matches flywheel marker "AA") Closes: 52 deg ABDC I am satisfied with cylinders 1-6 exhaust and intake cam timing for now and will continue, to cyl 7-12 cams.... I will need to circle back and double check all measurements before completion. Have a great holiday everyone! Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm not sure thank you covers it........THANK YOU!!!!! It is greatly appreciated by many here to see this done.
The flywheel pointer was relocated on PM 7/12 and the degree wheel was attached to the front pulley. The temporary pointer is zero'ed with the degree wheel's TDC mark, and the dial indicator mounted to read cylinder 7 intake and exhaust valve shim pads. The following reading was measured: Intake opens: 4 degrees BTDC. Not aligned with flywheel marker "AA". Should be 12 degrees BTDC. Required an 8 degree correction. Exhaust closes: 5 degrees ATDC Not aligned with flywheel marker "CS". Should be 10 degrees ATDC. Required a 5 degree correction. The corrections were made the same as cylinder 1/6 bank exhaust cam previously posted by relocating the dowel in different holes in the pulley and cam flange. The test was repeated, and after a few tries with different holes the correction was made. The cam bolt o-rings were replaced and the bolts torqued to 80 ft lbs. The lock tabs were bent over the hex flats. Intake now opens: 12 deg BTDC matches flywheel marker "AA" closes: 52 deg ABDC Exhaust opens: 54 deg BBDC closes: 10 deg ATDC matches flywheel mark "CS" Rechecked cylinder bank 1-6 with the degree wheel and DTI. The readings are correct so all valve timing shim pads were removed and replaced with the operating shim pads. Note and compare the first two photos below. The first is cylinder 7-12 intake cam mark before the 8 degree correction while the flywheel pointer is on PM 1/6. The second is the same cam mark after the 8 degree correction. Aligning the marks visually will get you in the "ball park" but that's about it. A good reason take the time and use a degree wheel then make corrections when timing the cams. The last picture shows the pulley retaining bolt, o-ring and dowel. The cam timing procedure is now complete. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave, Great post, particularly with the photos... In essence, this is exactly the way I degreed the cams in on my 365bb. Question: Did you actually verify TDC, or "trust" the markings on the flywheel to be accuarate? Thanks, David
Thanks David. And a very good question... Although I trust the flywheel marks more than cam marks, I did verify TDC using an unconventional method for an unconventional engine. The most acceptable way to verify TDC would be to install a piston stop (aka: TDC locator) such as the one in the first picture on the left. The stop is installed in the spark plug hole and via combination of adjusting the inner screw and crank rotation until the tip of the stop makes contact with the top of the piston. The steep angle of the spark plug hole in relation to the top of the piston on this engine concerned me enough not to use a piston stop. So I used the balloon method instead. It sounds ridiculous, but it's simple, is non contact, and seems accurate. A common ballon is placed over a short piece of 28mm OD hose (sized to the ID of the spark plug hole). As the piston approches TDC, the ballon inflates and stops at TDC. Slowly turning the crank, you can see the transition from TDC to ATDC as the ballon immediately deflates. I'm sure this method is debatable, but it beats the thought of metal to metal contact of a piston stop against the top of a piston, especially at such a steep angle. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Interesting...Similar to using one of the whistle devices, in a way. I've approched this "TDC" verification process differently through the years. Oddly, I've never used a piston stop to verify TDC. I set up a dial indicator through the spark plug hole and a degree wheel. This procedure works a bit easier with the heads off and the engine sitting on a bench. But the concept, I believe is solid even with the heads on...albeit a bit more difficult. First, I turn the engine so it is approaching TDC.....and insert a dial indicator down the #1 spark plug hole. Turning the engine very slowly towards #1 TDC, I watch the dial indicator for any movement. When the dial indicator first moves, I record the reading on the degree wheel (actual number unimportant). I continue turning the engine until the dial indicator stops moving...as the piston is now heading past TDC, and record that number on the dial indicator. If you take the average of the two numbers recorded on the degree wheel, you now have true TDC, as the piston does "stay" at the top of the bore for a brief interval. Next, I'll remove the dial indicator...and rotate the engine until I'm back at the "average" number I derived above. I then remove the degree wheel and reposition it so the the "average" postion is now "Zero" on the degree wheel...and procede with the cam timing method as you described above. Usually, this is all for nothing, as the marks on the flywheel, presuming that they are there, are dead on. Best of luck with your car...I've got another year or so before I need to do another engine out service. Regards, David
The easiest way and most accurate way is a piston stop, split the diffence on the degree wheel and your good to go. Head on or off, its the best.
David & Paul, Thank you for your posts. I have been unable to find any known reports or articles on the internet, forums, or written publications of known mismarkings on Boxer or even any Ferrari flywheels. Camshaft markings yes, but not flywheels. If either of you know of any reports please post the link or identify the publication. I can always circle back at this time before buttoning up the engine using a piston stop to verify the marks but believe the operation would be redundant. Bill Badurski's FCA Prancing Horse #151 cam timing procedure does not mention the use of a piston stop, or any other procedure for that matter to verify flywheel marks even as an option. His article references the use of the flywheel marks only to verify degree wheel cam timing. I don't mind taking the extra time to circle back, as long as it's justified. Dave
Using a piston stop is fool proof whereas using factory marks means assumption. They might be right but they might not be because people make mistakes.
Dave, I agree completely with what Paul is saying...However, I have never seen a Ferrari flywheel, including the latest reproduction units, where the TDC marks weren't spot on. My concern with the "crude" pointer and flywheel marks has always been parallax errors...which still can happen using a dial indicator, but less likely. Personally, I'd buttton here up and call it a day. Regards and Happy New Year, David
You can also use this tool. Spring loaded. Here's a safe way to make sure the number 1 piston is at true Top Dead Center. This standard length indicator threads into the spark plug hole. Rotate the engine observing the 1/8" graduation marks on the sliding shaft. Note the top of the piston stroke. Can be used with a dial indicator. Made in USA. Limited lifetime manufacturer's warranty Thread is 14 x 1.25 or this kit: Need to set up your engine for peak efficiency and performance? If so, whether you're working on a Ford or Ferrari; these tools will come in handy. This 8-piece Engine Calibration Set-Up Kit includes: Crank Stopper for easy removal of harmonic balancer; TDC Indicator to position piston Top Dead Center; Compression Tube Extension prevents compression gauge getting stuck; Compression Whistle Alert prevents burning getting your fingers burned; Adapter Bushings for 12, 14, 18 mm spark plug holes. This kit puts everything you need to set up an engine at your fingertips. Made in USA $66 bucks. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Adam, These are interesting. Especially the spring loaded TDC locator. I personally would prefer this over a hard piston stop especially in a angled spark plug hole. Anyway you can share a link or the manufacture's name for future reference? David & Paul, At this point, I agree with David's quote: "However, I have never seen a Ferrari flywheel, including the latest reproduction units, where the TDC marks weren't spot on. Personally, I'd button here up and call it a day." Thanks for the comments guys. Anyone using this thread in the future can decide for themselves if this procedure is necessary. Dave
Before the camshaft timing the engine was rotated clockwise (looking from the front to rear) and the timing belt tension was set. The tensioner nuts were torqued to 50 ft lbs. Now satisfied with the tension I have double checked the torque. The water tube that runs just under the harmonic balancer is fabricated from steel. This tube should be checked for corrosion prior to installation (photo 1). Mine was in great shape with no evidence of any rust. A good indication the cooling system was maintained over the years. A new volute gasket is installed (photo 2) and new 32mm ID (1-1/4") HBD Thermoid spiral wrapped nitrile hoses are installed. The hose see: http://www.google.com/products?hl=en&q=thermoid+coolant+hose&um=1&ie=UTF-8&checkout=1&sa=X&oi=product_result&resnum=1&ct=checkout-restrict is cut from 3' long bulk lengths and are available in both 32mm & 38mm ID's (1-1/2") for less than $20/length. It is available on the shelf from a local hardware store, and is spiral wrapped as is the original hose. For a stock look, any lettering or identification can be removed easily with fine Scotchbrite and thinner. New hose clamps are installed and are postioned so that full access to the clamp's screws can be obtained through the timing belt cover holes (photos 3 & 4). If you don't do this, the clamps will not be accessable after engine installation or during the life of the major service. The timing belt covers are installed (photo 5) The rear main seal is removed by very carefully pearcing the case with a sharp punch and gently prying it out of the crankcase bore (photo 6). Care must be taken not to damage the casing or crank sealing surfaces. The new seal lip is lubed with clean engine oil and is tapped squarely into it's bore (photo 7). The flywheel is installed (photo 8). Since the bolts do not call for a locking device, I used Locktite blue (removable) threadlock. The workshop manual states a torque of 3.1 kgm which has a conversion of 23 ft lbs according to this on-line conversion calculator http://mdmetric.com/tech/tech4/torqcalc3.htm Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Since the engine is nearly ready for installation, I am focusing now on the engine bay. Some cleanup chores and replacement of the 25 year old heater supply hose was one of the extra items I wanted to do while the engine is out. The hose can be replaced with the engine in but why wait for it to fail? Personally, I think the original lived an extended service life. The heater hose is a 17mm ID x 10' long black spiral cloth wrapped coolant hose that runs from the top of the engine, just above the central frame (photo 2) all the way up front to the heater valve. The heater valve can be easily accessed through a aluminum cover just aft of the battery compartment. The cover is fastened in place by 6x1.00mm hex bolts. Replacement with the engine out can be done by first disconnecting the hose from the heater valve (photo 1) and attaching a standard electrician's fish tape to the end of the hose. The original hose is pulled through the center frame with the fish tape attached from the back of the car. Once out, the end of the tape can be attached to the new hose and pulled through using the fish tape. You can use some spray silicone to ease the pull. Reattach the hose to the heater valve (photo 3) and it's ready to install to the engine. While up front, replace the short 38mm ID hoses connecting the main coolant supply and returns. Mine were replaced just last year. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for your compliment... I'm sure the engine could be removed with the A/C lines left intact on the compressor just by changing the removal procedure slightly. Removing the bell housing and transfer case assembly prior to engine removal will buy at least 4"-6" extra clearance behind the engine during removal. You will need this clearance if the compressor and lines are hooked up since fore & aft clearance is very tight with the bell housing intact. Lifting the engine an inch or two off the mounts then pulling the engine back using the extra clearance gained from the transfer case would make the difference. A temporary support would be needed for the compressor during engine removal. I never realized just how easy and quick the bell housing/transfer case is to removed on a Boxer, and I will probably do just that on it's next major. Dave
Dave, man, thanks SO much for doing this work AND photographing AND providing commentary. I have no idea what you're talking about, but it sounds impressive. Are you sure my Boxer has those parts too? Only half kidding - - if nothing else, your essays show to us with mechanical trepidation that these are a) cars with b) parts and with c) tools and mostly d) know-how, problems are solved. Too many non-dealer shops love to throw up thier hands and squawk about immense complexity and "nobody can work on that" mantras that make the uninitiated cower into "regular car corner". Or worse, they claim expertise they don't have, charging you for their error-laden education. Your posts, and MANY OTHERS are a great source for us out here who may not do the work, but benefit nonetheless.
Wow! Thanks.. I'm sure there will be many more of these threads to follow that all of us can use for future reference. Dave
When I removed the A/C compressor before engine removal two aluminum spacer washers were sandwiched between the compressor pivot bracket bolt (photo 1) and the timing belt cover. Since I could not see which side the washers were placed, I mounted the compressor as a dry run to check the belt alignment. These washers adjust the fore and aft postion of the compressor. For correct alignment, the washers are placed towards the front of the bracket. Since the A/C system is not pressurized, this is a good time to check the oil level in the compressor crankcase. With the compressor level, the hex plug is removed with a 14mm socket. A short length of stiff 12ga wire is used as a dipstick (photo 2) inserting it to the bottom of the crankcase. The wire is removed and the oil on the end of the wire is measured with a scale. The factory recommends 22-29mm of oil, and mine measured 24mm. So I'll leave it be. Since this car had a previous R134A conversion, and I know by records Ester oil was used to replace the R12 compatible crankcase oil, I would have added Ester oil. Since the level was ok, none is needed. Before fitting the cam covers, the cam cap nuts are double checked for torque. The cam cover gaskets as supplied are die cut out of a single sheet of gasket material. Trimming the gasket is required on the cam seal and rear cover area for correct fit (photo 3). The gaskets are lightly coated with silicone sealant just before fitting the covers with a small dab of silicone on ends where they meet the lip seal casings. The cam covers are refitted with the wave washers and acorn nuts (photo 4). The engine bay is now ready and the only thing remaining to do on the engine is to install the clutch assembly. While the engine is out, I will be installing a fresh set of spark plugs as well. I should be able to reinstall the engine after this weekend once our weather improves. I will need the garage door open for a few hours to prep the lift, and with our temperature at 0 degrees F its down right cold outside. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That looks fantastic! At some point, I need to travel down the path you're on. Are there any big ring nuts to be removed to get at the clutch, or does the transfer case slip off with spline couplings? Thank you.
