Boxer Fuse Block Upgrade

paul, have you meassured the voltage directly at the fuel pump? may be a corroded connection somewhere. but with 9 - 11 A a fuse never will get so warm that you can not touch. may be use an other fuse ( same A ) for testing?

 

Thanks to you, Sam, Steve, and Romano for your follow up.
I understand all your comments and will do better my homework to cope with your level of expertise and kindness!
1- I will change of multimeter for the new one I acquired (the one with A clamp)
2- I will measure exactly on the terminals as suggested, but as you outline the Birdman's block is new and solid with well welded "jumps" between terminals when needed of say 4mm2 section copper (pic attached) Image Unavailable, Please Login
3- change fuse, but little chance since it is new and was heating the same, even more, with torpedos before
4- measure the A on the pumps. Since the BBi is new for me, I wonder whether I will access under the body with just a jack (centrally located) and a stand for safety. I have a scissor 1m high crane at home, but didn't find in the BBi's documentation /chat where to lift the car with 4 points since the jack's points are only 2 lateral ones as on my other E-type. If you can indicate where to put the 4 lifting wooden blocks out of the large fairing, I will be grateful as it is an opportunity to experience the lift, always useful for future.
BTW, you confirm that a consumption of 10A per pump is too high. I didn't find any spec for F/Bosch pump for injection, but an Hardi one, low pressure, for 100L/h is given for 3A only.
Results coming soon...
Have a good day,
Jean-Paul

 

the bosch pumps for sure needs more than 3 A because of higher pressure and also more ltr/h

 

No, ~10A is normal for the stock Ferrari Bosch CIS fuel pump (but is also why some F models using the Bosch CIS fuel pump have so much trouble with the fuseblocks and fuse-relay panel connectors). Some F part vendors are now selling a slightly lower capacity Bosch CIS fuel pump that only draws about 8A, but it really doesn't have enough margin to ensure that every one can always supply enough fuel at maximum RPM, but most can.

 

Thanks Steve for your feedback which comes to the conclusion that the amperage of both pumps circuit is "normal".
Just ensure that female terminals are well crimped on the male spades.
BTW, due to your experience, for any further work under body purpose, if you could indicate where are 4 possible jacking points for a scissors crane not to spoil fairing or carrozzeria, I would appreciate since I see nothing in the documentation or on Fchat.
Cheers,
Jean-Paul

 

No, I don't have anything specific about BBi lift points (but it shouldn't be a mystery to pick some reasonable places on the frame structure).

 

Thanks, I will do my experience.
It was just to know if there was any drawback on some point which could be chosen. For instance, on E-type, you must know where to lift in a secure manner, and this not at first glance for an "amateur" as I am.

 

Just a quick question for the experts:
So in all these years is it still true that only Sam and Birdman have fabricated a better board for these models?
I had a Birdman board in my '77 308, it never missed a beat.

 

TurtleFarmer also did what I would call a quality 308 fuseblock replacement using better fuses:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/redesigned-fuse-block.619636

(but I still like Sam's the best since they fit the stock plastic covers)

 

Dear Sam,
A pity that your fuse blocks were not available at the moment, otherwise you were in pole position.
To morrow I will lie under the car to measure Amp at the pumps location. Hope to be able to put a stand aside the jack point, or find 4 secure lifting points since it is all 'dressed" with a large sheet under chassis.
NB: with my scissor's crane the lifting points must be more or less in the wheel's alignment, so at the exterior of body.
Keep in touch...
Jean-Paul

 

Hi Sam,
Back from survey!
Engine at idle circa 1000RPM and 13,7V on blocks alimentation.
Since at idle, the voltmeter measurement was dancing slightly, so accuracy is +- 0,05V.
I reported on enclosed pic the survey results with indication of measurement point.
Hope you can open the .pdf (for me, it doesn't appear in clear but on attached file to be opened?), otherwise tell me for other format as jpeg?
Nothing extraordinary; say that maximum/maximorum voltage drop is around 0,3V between upstream and downstream terminals, meaning 3W dissipation.
I didn't measure again the temperatures because the IR is basic and angle measurement when so close is so-so.
Rather less hot on finger than before (crimping and moving female connectors helped).
I don't know whether you have any additional comment, but situation looks "under control" now.
I warmly thank you, Sam and Steve for your assistance, as well as Birdman for the new blocks.
Here in Bordeaux, beautiful weather today for a drive in the vineyards...
Cheers,
Jean-Paul

 

It might be easier to see like this:

Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

If your voltage measurements are accurate, you are also dissipating an additional about 2W in the path between the RH fuel pump fuse top male spade and the LH fuel pump fuse top male spade -- which seems very odd as that looks to be connected by a large, short, and soldered piece of bus bar wire (so should have a very low resistance and very low voltage drop). Perhaps a poor solder joint or joint preparation? Most of the heat gets conducted away in the connected wires so that extra heat won't be helping the health of the crimp of that large red wire carrying 21A into its female spade (and your measurements don't include the wire crimping on either side). It's a difficult positive feedback situation -- a little heat/temperature promotes oxidation and can weaken the mechanical strength/grip of the metal = increases the resistance a little more = increases the heat/temperature generated = increases the oxidation and weakening...until failure.

Yes, never hurts to remove the female spades occasionally to "close" them up more to have a tighter grip on the male spades -- plus that rewipes the connection between them and can help remove any surface oxides that have formed. Just really shows the difficulty of conveying large currents where tiny resistances (that normally wouldn't be a problem) now become a problem.

 

Indeed! Thanks a lot George.

 

Thanks Steve,
I noticed this drop thru the alimentation jump from RH to LH spades.
But the manufacturing/soldering from Birdman308 is very neat (having looked before screwing the blocks), no rivets, and the bar is consequent (solid copper 12 gauge: no need to ad additional wire between both alimentation connectors).
Maybe also question of measure because, on idle, the voltmeter was swinging nicely, so my measures are averaged.
May I conclude telling that, once changed the torpedos for AGC (or flat fuses), one has to inspect the fuse blocks periodically to put finger on the fuses and close the female connectors where it looks necessary.
Have a good day,
Jean-Paul

 

You can make a direct voltage measurement between those two top male spades with the engine running to get a more accurate result: 0VDC = good, 0.2VDC = not so good. Same for all the other measurements (rather than referencing them to ground) -- just measure from the top male spade to the bottom male spade.

 

Hi Sam,
Thanks, it is raining feedbacks!
Yes always the same ground (bolt on left part of glovebox again firewall).
Most unprecise, as I just told to Steve is the "dancing measures" in idle RPM (can't accelerate and measure alone without risk of short cut), so my records are an average of .
Since all harnesses have been changed 2 years ago the crimps of female connectors are OK and I double checked under plastic protection.
For the AGC fuses, it is all Chinese stuff, no real brand name, you get for little money but the silvered ends looks ok (see pic). You are welcomed if you have some brand (Bosch for example) to recommend: worth to put some bucks more.
Let's see what you find on your test bench with AGC fuses, Mr Ohm.

Just to let you see the quality of the car's renovation by Zanasi and Luppi (Modena), I enclose a pic of engine bay. Since I am "anorak" I had the copiglia clamps replated dichromate for air ducts and starter coil.
Remain the rear hot water hose circuit to change since wrongly attached to rear or the bay.
Don't worry seing little white canvas pieces on the rubber cones for closure of the lid.
I have noise when driving on a road irregularity and I don't know where it comes from?
So I thought it was a loose space above these cones with lid "playing".
I put these canvas before fixing up a washer.
But not: it is as if some mechanic had left a screwdriver under the stowage bar (not obvious to undo with small screws in engine bay) of the rear vertical window. Mystery?
Cheers
Jean-paul
Image Unavailable, Please Login



Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Why 4 pictures? Definitely an amateur...

 

Hi Sam,
So globally we are at the conclusion. Thanks for all these comments from an Electricity Engineer!
For the fuses, of course the brands you refer are US and I am afraid the freight (UPS or similar will be 10 times the value (FYI Newco when buying a single Lobo bolt or a special hose ask for 200USD freight cost, non negotiable (yes !), so I don't buy to them).
Here in Europe, I will look for Bosch which probably offers this stuff and has been for years supplying European cars.
I will look to your video, also to improve my technical English...
Looking forward to exchange on another topic for boxers.
BTW, I have an E-type nuts and bolts renovated by a Canadian fellow, ex GM Engineer retired, in Whitby (Ontario); another very nice Canadian person.
Cheers,
Jean-Paul

 

Jean-Paul,

Here is some place to start:

https://www.eurospares.co.uk/Ferrari/512/512_BBi/PartDiagrams/113/Fuses_and_Relays