Bolt in 308 roll cage | FerrariChat

Bolt in 308 roll cage

Discussion in '308/328' started by luckydynes, Mar 5, 2008.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

  1. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    3,931
    CA and OR
    Full Name:
    pit bull
    If the 308 is going to see anymore big tracks I want to put some kind of protection in it . .. . I would suggest the same to any of you that track your cars with any "fury" ... again I have to compliment the P club for beating this into me and I saw with my own eyes how things can go wrong when you're just having fun and a cage will save your life!!!!!

    I don't like driving a car on the street with a cage right by my head with no helmet so I'd like to be able to remove it . .. any thoughts about attachment points/connections, etc.?

    I would think some kind of slip collar clamp would work well for connecting tubes together . .. think someone told me this is on the 355 challenge cars but I don't know?

    What about attachment to the frame? . . . maybe weld something that has some bolt attachment points or something?

    Thanks,

    Sean
     
  2. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,559
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    The Butcher
    That is a big part of the reason I do not even consider taking mine to the track.....I've just seen too much go terribly wrong to have any interest in being out there without the proper safety equipment.

    A bolt-in roll seems much more doable than and entire cage. A 4-point bar with plates to bolt to welded into the car you could have a good strong set-up. Make it a 6 point and getting it out gets tricky, add a front bar and it has to come apart to come out.

    If it designed properly the connecting members between the front and rear hoop should be basically tension/compression members and a simple clevis and pin connection would be acceptable. If you want more, a slip tube over the clevis/pin would add the bending strength. I doubt any of this would be race legal, but from an engineering stand point it could be just as strong as a fully welded assembly.
     
  3. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    3,931
    CA and OR
    Full Name:
    pit bull
    I was thinking:

    1. Front bar/hoop . .. 2 point attachment

    2. Rear bar/hoop . .. maybe 4 point attachment (upper and lower seat belt points but upper point isn't that far back from lower point for strength . .. thoughts?).

    Then are you thinking the front to rear connectors could bolt in? Not looking to be race legal . .. just safe. Think I'd feel pretty safe with something like this. Put supports front to rear along the roof line edge and along the middle of the doors/diagonal.

    1.75" tubing is minimum yes?

    Might start playing with PVC and the propane torch :).

    Sean



    Sean
     
  4. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,559
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    The Butcher
    The area where the seat belts attach is probably right, but I would want to see at least 2 bolts per mount point.

    As far as the the upper and lower being too close together, It's more a weight issue than anything else. I wouldn't go less than a 30* included angle for the suport, then the longer the unsuported hieght, the heavier the main hoop needs to be.

    On top I would be inclined to make a Z shaped piece with the clivis bolts going top to bottom (so 4 bolts) and you will have all the strength of welded bars assuming the center clevis tab is sized to at least equal the bending strength of the tubing and I'm talking about a male/female type clevis so the bolt is in double sheer.

    On the side use a V (cross bar and diagonal - 3 bolts) with the Clevis bolt going side to side.

    As far as tubing size I would start by looking at the SCCA rule book and see what they say. It is stronger and lighter to use larger diameters with thinner walls any time you have room for it
     
  5. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    3,931
    CA and OR
    Full Name:
    pit bull
    APPENDIX C - SOLO II ROLL BAR STANDARDS
    A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
    1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in case
    the vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten.
    2. The top of the roll bar shall not be below the top of the driver’s
    helmet when the driver is in normal driving position, and shall
    not be more than six inches behind the driver. It is strongly
    suggested that the roll bar extend at least three inches above
    the driver’s helmet. In case of two driver cars, both drivers
    must be within the roll bar height requirement, however only
    one driver must be within six inches of the roll bar. In a closed
    car equipped with a roll bar/cage, it must be as close as possible
    to the interior top of the car.
    3. The roll bar must be designed to withstand compression forces
    resulting from the weight of the car coming down on the roll
    structure, and to take fore-and-aft loads resulting from the car
    skidding along the ground on the roll structure.
    4. The two vertical members forming the sides of the hoop shall
    not be less than fifteen inches apart (inside dimension). It is
    desirable that the roll bar extend the full width of the cockpit to
    provide maximum bearing area in all soil conditions during
    rollovers. The roll bar vertical members on formula cars and
    other single seat cars with a center driver position must be not
    less than fifteen inches apart, inside dimension, at their attachment
    points to the uppermost main chassis member.
    5. An inspection hole of at least 3/16 inch diameter must be
    drilled in a non-critical area of a roll bar member to facilitate
    verification of wall thickness. This should be at least three
    inches from any weld or bend.
    6. It is recommended that steel gusset plates be used at all welds.
    Gussets should be at least two inches long on each leg and 3/
    16 inches thick.
    7. It is recommended that roll bars be coated only with a light coat
    of paint. If, however, a roll bar should be chrome-plated, it is
    recommended that the structure be normalized.
    8. Post or tripod types of roll bars are not acceptable.
    B. MATERIAL
    After 9-22-85, aluminum is not an acceptable alternate material.
    Cars using aluminum roll bars or roll cages must file proof with the
    RSD that the structure was approved prior to 9-22-85 as provided
    233
    in this section.
    1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW, or
    DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
    or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
    that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to quality and
    strength concerns.
    2. The size of tubing to be used shall be determined on the basis
    of the weight and speed potential of the car. The following
    minimum sizes are required required and are based upon the
    weight of the car without the driver.
    a) Over 1500 lbs.-min. of 1-1/” 2 o.d. x .120" wall or 1-3/
    4" o.d. x .095" wall
    b) Over 1000 lbs.-min. of 1-1/4" o.d. x .090" wall
    c) Under 1000 lbs.-min. of 1" o.d. x .060" wall
    Dimensions are nominal. 0.005” variation in wall thickness is
    allowed.
    3. Each mounting plate shall be at least .080" thick if welded and
    3/16" thick if bolted. A minimum of 3 bolts per plate is required
    for bolted mounting plates.
    4. All bolts and nuts shall be SAE Grade 5 or better, 5/16" minimum
    diameter.
    C. FABRICATION
    1. One continuous length of tubing must be used for the hoop
    member with smooth continuous bends and no evidence of
    crimping or wall failure.
    2. All welding must be of the highest possible quality with full
    penetration and will be subjected to very critical inspection.
    Arc welding, particularly heliarc, should be used wherever
    possible.
    D. BRACING
    1. It is recommended that braces be of the same size tubing as
    used for the roll bar itself.
    2. All roll bars must be braced in a manner to prevent movement
    in a fore-and-aft direction with the brace attached within the
    top one-third of the roll hoop, and at an angle of at least thirty
    degrees from vertical. It is strongly recommended that two
    such braces be used, parallel to the sides of the car, and placed
    at the outer extremities of the roll bar hoop. Such braces
    should extend to the rear whenever possible.
    234
    3. It is suggested that roll bars include a transverse brace from the
    bottom of the hoop on one side to the top of the hoop on the
    other side.
    E. MOUNTING PLATES
    1. Roll bars and braces must be attached to the frame of the car
    wherever possible. Mounting plates may be used for this purpose
    where desired.
    2. In the case of cars with unitized or frameless construction,
    mounting plates may be used to secure the roll bar structure to
    the floor of the car. The important consideration is that the
    load be distributed over as large an area as possible. A backup
    plate of equal size and thickness must be used on the opposite
    side of the panel with the plates through-bolted together.
    F. REMOVABLE ROLL BARS
    Removable roll bars and braces must be very carefully designed
    and constructed to be at least as strong as a permanent installation.
    If one tube fits inside another tube to facilitate removal, the
    removable portion must bottom on the permanent mounting, and at
    least two bolts must be used to secure each such joint. The telescope
    section must be at least eight inches in length.
    G. INSTALLATION ON CARS OF SPACE FRAME AND FRAMELESS
    DESIGN
    1. It is important that roll bar structures be attached to cars in
    such a way as to spread the loads over a wide area. It is not
    sufficient to simply attach the roll bar to a single tube or junction
    of tubes. The roll bar must be designed in such a way as
    to be an extension of the frame itself, not simply an attachment
    to the frame. Considerable care must be used to add as necessary
    to the frame structure itself in such a way as to properly
    distribute the loads. It is not true that a roll bar can only be as
    strong as any single tube in the frame.
    H. ROLL CAGES
    It is recommended but not mandatory that all cars utilize a roll
    cage as defined in Section 18 of the GCR.
    I. ROLL BAR PADDING
    Braces and portions of the main hoop subject to contact by the
    driver’s or passenger’s helmet, as seated normally and restrained
    by seatbelt and harness, must be padded with a non-resilient material
    such as Ethafoam (R) or Ensolite (R) or other similar material
    with a minimum thickness of one-half inch.
     
  6. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
    1,426
    Tequesta, FL
    Full Name:
    Paul Delatush
    Putting a roll cage into the 308 is not difficult. The real problem is getting the height above the driver's helmet. I have a 4 point roll bar welded in my GTS - 2 points behind the seats with a harness bar across the back, and 2 points next to the front of the seats. The bar just touches the roof behind the seat. However, even with a OMP racing seat touching the floor and tilted back, my helmet is above the bottom of the bar. I'm 5'11'', so I suspect this condition is applicable to most drivers. The only solution is to lower the floor /seat. If anyone has done this, please respond and tell us how you did it.
     
  7. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,559
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    The Butcher
    Odd tat they don't make a wall thickness allowance for 4130, I guess they just don't want to deal with having you prove that's what it is. Your car will be well over the 1500 lbs any way so the extra strength might be good piece of mind. In the formula SAE they let us do about anything as long as the strength met or exceeded the minimum material specified so instead of 1" .065 wall 4130 (or it seems like 1" x .095 wall mild steel) we used .035 wall 1.25 dia which is stronger but just over 1/2 the weight :)

    edit, now that I think about it the original mild marking it as 4130 had to be visable or you failed tech.
     
  8. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse


    Hi Sean,

    I really like the idea of a pvc cage set up, sounds light and easy to glue up. My only question is how are you going to get in there??

    I applaud your efforts, the 308 interior is tight as it is and adding a cage just about takes the car out of daily practical driving. For sure it is a big pluss on the track, mostly for saving your but but also for that extra bit of chasis stiffening.

    Keep up the effort good buddy,
    chris
     

Share This Page