Best & toughest rattle can black paint?

I've used this stuff on a lot of parts. Sprays well, covers quickly and dries to a reasonably durable finish.

It comes in basic colors, not a great variety. Typically I use the red primer and the gloss black when it fits the application.
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I use Duplicolor or Rust-Oleum automotive Low Gloss Black enamel. Goes on well; coats/recoats well; looks OEM.

Just follow directions.

 

Rattle cans are always a second best. They apply small amounts of paint, take a long time to dry well, and are not very durable. Given the choice I always prefer to use powder coat or paint applied with a spray gun. The large part of the work is always the prep so the finishing stage is best done with the best materials possible. That said if you are stuck using a rattle can two tips work well:

1. Pre-heat the part with a heat gun or heat lamp. Applying paint on a warm surface makes a big difference to adhesion.

2. Hold the rattle can under hot water for a minute to warm the paint inside. This works really well to toughen up the finish that comes from the can.

 

I've used the Rustoleum high performance paint on auto parts, and it holds up really well. It is especially good if you use some of their primer on the bare metal before spraying. Cleaning the parts is extremely important, and especially degreasing them. I use a parts cleaner/degreaser and make sure that the parts are as clean as possible, and let them dry well before spraying. Warming them a bit with a hair dryer helps to assure they are completely dry as well. A nice coat of primer, let that dry, and then a couple of nice, thin, even coats of paint, and it's good to go.

VHT also makes some good paints, but mostly I use their wrinkle paint for things like the valve covers. They also make a good high temperature engine paint that is very tough that I've used on other parts as well.

 

The most important part is prepare the surface. I typically blast and degrease everything and apply an appropriate primer.

 

Yes, that's for VHT Wrinkle finishes.
I like 250 degrees.. for 1 hour.
Then shut off the oven, and leave it overnight.
(Make sure wifey is not home,, stinks like $hat.)

And, all that stuff you guys buy... it's Enamel.
( Enamel bad, Urethane good.)

Research,,,
SIM
DuPONT


Edwardo
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Being an over-user of Brake Cleaner for everything I can relate.. I have had better luck with using the
Rustoleum Gloss black in the quart can (not spray can) I have brushed it on as well as sprayed it in a
detail spray gun (thinned slightly). It holds up pretty good to the misplaced solvent spray (unlike the VHT
engine paint that I just repainted my Konis with only to accidently hit it with a spray of brake
clean doing a little clean up.)

 

for Clean-up, I use, " Grow Automotive, HET 1705, followed by HET 1556."
or, buy some MEK from your local Home Depot or the ACE hardware store.

Yes, that is good stuff,,,
but, kind of expensive for me.

Remember, No Open Flame, smoking or ARC welding after you use it.
Nerve Gas will be produced,, IDLH like 10 ppm and you will be in convulsions.

Edwardo
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Your right! Use caution when using these cleaners, however I believe the chlorinated ones are the ones that create the Phosgene gas. I only use the non-chlorinated ones which may be the only ones you can get anymore in California.

 

Anybody that does any welding should ONLY use Non-Chlorinated Brake Clean to de- grease parts.
body shop worker told me they like to use engine paint for small under chassis detail, they say it has a built in primer.
I like Krylon paint, dries quick and gives a smooth finish.


Ago

 

My 1st choice:

VHT epoxy

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/WSs9fbt0b15LlvBQaBAFM84gKP-RMy3ZhEjYinbbc7ZmqSw5htGn2NRPK4p6Zjz4MQNdrawXTMklHBk4GbPHPUIJWYtTODcKSWyZuNE6XqdsOF8VJBM_ekaOs1Yznp1ktsjc8wOQittvIbk0mkG5tYrXInLP_kd08EmMvrlOv6Dstj9zjP298jCsiUIemtnbEvZ2giB9KEtjo9-3vXDe50iYrCmfSeyT4bfz

 

There are some great spray-on gun barrel/parts coatings. Some are bake on and some are just spray and dry. I have a link to one supplier, there are many. I have found some of these to most durable, that's what they are designed for, plus high heat, harsh environments.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=metal+finish/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=metal_finish

 

I find that for the quick and dirty job, a brush and a quart can of rustoleum semi gloss black is a Fair alternative.

at least you can lay it on thick and it is durable. and cheap.

 

My gift to you guys: Duracoat

http://www.lauerweaponry.com/


Nothing, and I mean NOTHING, not gun cleaners, solvents, brake, engine or carb cleaners will harm this stuff. Been using it to refinish firearms and other parts for a Decade.

My fave is the Teflon Combat Black. Its a flat black with Teflon in it that will tolerate rubbing or chaffing contact, hell I paint the INSIDES of my machine guns, and it makes them run and cycle better. Works on wood and plastic too.

I feel there are many uses for this, especially on aluminum frames, engines, cases, and so on.

If you dont have an air compressor, with a moisture trap and a good airbrush, the small aerosol spray kit they sell works perfect for small parts. It cures to touch in a few hours and we have thrown stuff together and used it. If you let it sit, or heat it in the sunlight, or an oven its damn near bullet proof, meaning it has to be bead blasted to remove.

Love the stuff, not affiliated, blah blah.


ps, it comes in many colors, and in flat, clear coat, matte, ect.

 

Prep.....
most important step for durability (degreaser, sanding for example).

Temperature...
can play a role (don't spray when it is cold).

Above posts have many good product references.

 

You may want to look at the POR 15 stuff

The paints that they make a very tough

http://www.por15.com/

 

For little jobs, I use the cans. ( 1-2 sq. feet )
Bigger, I use a Gun, Compressor... etc. But, I can waste 50% of the paint, sometimes by accident, usually by mixing too much.



Good luck,
Edwardo

 

Sikkens Rally Black

 

I use my outdoor BBQ for baking parts..no worries about the house stinking and Ive never had a problem with fumes, etc..!

 

Good thread.
I have used and like SEM Self Etching Primer. It comes in a nice satin black in quarts or spray can that closely resembles the factory finish black on new parts. It sticks really well and is more durable than Krylon. Some people like to use an epoxy black primer by Dupont that I understand is no longer available in Ca.

The gun paint, posted in an earlier post, looks very interesting to me and I may try that too.

Best,
Mark