Best Brake Fluid For Track

Motul RBF600 (DOT 4) brake fluid works great. I use them on Lotuses in pretty extreme conditions. That's a much lighter car and easier on brakes though...thats my $.02

 

Just remember high temp racing fluids don't lubricate as well as the stock stuff and also tend to collect moisture. Fine for heavy track use and frequent fluid changes. Not so good for leaving in the car for thousands of miles of street use.

As far as the clutch is concerned I NEVER use high temp brake fluid. I buy the cheapest stuff I can find at Walmart for the clutch. The clutch master and slave cylinders will last a lot longer with the cheap stuff.

 

I've used ordinary DOT 4 Prestone brake fluid in my Porsche for the past 14 years at Road Atlanta where it can get rather warm. Car weighs 2950 lbs, has about 380 hp, and has over 100 track events on it. I never had a problem with the brakes but they are ducted and I use Hawk racing pads. The fluid is changed prior to each track event.

 

I use Motul RBF. It is midway between ATE and Castrol SRF in boiling temp, water retention and price. On the Lotus, I change it once a year and bleed it during pad changes and that is it.

 

I am running freshly flushed and bled Motul RBF600 this weekend at Spring Mountain on R-compound R888s on my Noble. I have had brake boil problems in the past. I will let you know how it goes on Sunday. The last 3 race shops I've been to have recommended this fluid.

 

Any issues running Super Blue or Motul RBF 600 all year round as street fluid, too? Bleed before and after track events but wondered if OK to use the same fluid for the "after" bleed as well as the "before" bleed for the track.

 

No issues. I've been using Super Blue exclusively for years on both my 308 and Z06 on and off the track. No brake fluid issues on either car.

 

The Ford HD DOT 3 brake fluid PN C6AZ-19542-AB that came in the metal can has been NLA for several years. It been superseded a different PN that comes in plastic bottles.

Here is the interesting background on that Ford fluid.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_brakefluid_1a.shtml
It "was developed in the early 1960’s to cure the problem caused by Lincoln Continental drivers boiling the fluid by habitually resting their left feet on the brake pedal."
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Sorry if I am being redundant; I have not read through the entire thread.
My input is that if you're going to be changing out the fluid often use ATE Superblue as the dry boiling point is 536F, which is decent.. However, like the other brands similar to these fluids once the fluid is wet the boiling point is much worse @ 388F. Once you take the fluid and start using it, the fluid collects moisture and starts degrading into the latter.

If you are a bit more 'lazy', I'd get the more expensive Castrol SRF. The dry boiling point is 590F & Wet Boiling Point 518F.. So whether its wet or dry it will still be fairly resistant to boiling.

So change every track day or two: ATE SuperBlue (Very good when dry, cost effective for changing often.)

Change twice a year: Castrol SRF - Wet & dry boiling points are similarly high so it will resist boiling even after it's 'old'.

Cheers, hope that helps

 

I used to use Super Blue and did the switch with Gold and it didn't work that well. The SB difuses into the gold or vice versa and it is hard to tell when to quit bleeding. Also be aware that the SB stains the nice white plastic resivoirs dark blue forever. I now use Motul RBF600 in my Spec Racer Ford as well as my Mini Cooper S and BMW M5 which see some track use at Sebring from time to time. I've never had fluid boil even on the hottest days and the M5 weighs in at 4000 lbs and I'm running with the fast guys in PCA events.

Robin

 

I've used ATE Super Blue/200 Amber in everything from old Jaguars to the 308 GTS to my racing Corvette Z06s, and it works great. I've never experienced a fluid boiling condition with Super Blue/200 fluid.

If you do have a concern about fluid boiling, consider Castrol SRF. It is a lot more expensive, but it is probably the best racing brake fluid you can buy. I know several guys who use it in high end track cars and say it is great and never have a brake failure attributable to boiling fluid. I bleed my brakes before each track event. Folks who use SRF say it lasts a lot longer and they don't feel the need to bleed as often.

IMHO, for track day events, Super Blue is fine. It is reasonably priced, has among the best performance specs out there for racing fluid, and at its price you don't even think twice about bleeding often. If you keep fresh fluid in the car, any of the race-rated fluids will work great, and the Super Blue is good stuff.

p.s. I've also used Wilwood 600 fluid, and that is good stuff also.

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I'll repeat what I said before, don't use the racing fluids for everyday driving. The have very high boiling points but do not lubricate as well and components will wear faster. The also absorb moisture like crazy and tend to rust steel lines etc.

I used the Ford brake fluid for years in my Formula 2000 cars and never had a problem. You can leave that in for everyday use.

 

Does that apply to Super Blue or Motul RBF 600, too? I'm thinking Ford fluid is the way to go.

 

I would say yes for the 600 but I'm not positive about the Super Blue. I think it is more tolerent for street use? I use the 600 on our racecars now and it's great stuff but I also bleed it every weekend and don't expect the calipers to go 50K between rebuilds. Just becuase something is used on a racecar doesn't mean it will hold up to street use. If your bleeding it a few times a year and not putting a lot of miles on you can probably use the high temp stuff but it you are only bleeding it once a year and drive 5 or 10K miles I'd use something else.

 

Motul 600 no doubt about it. I tried them ALL in my Rolex GT Porsche and we had the best results from Motul.

 

I have been experimenting with various brake pads on my 360 Spider after switching to slotted rotors up front and solids in the rear. The last pads I used were Pagid blacks in the front and blues in the rear - which performed well but had a very short life.

I have just had a Brembo Big Brake kit installed on the fronts, with Pagid blues all around. After a full flush, I am using Motul 660 brake fluid and I am running on R 888's. Also increased the negative camber a bit on both fronts and rears.

Three day track event at Summit Point starting tomorrow, so I should have a pretty good opportunity to test the new setup.

Rob

 

http://www.endless-brake.info/e_layer_fluid.htm

We have been running this (as is Risi Compitizione and a few others)

 

Anyone know the new PN for the Ford fluid (in the plastic bottle)? Sounds like good stuff to run year 'round. However, is DOT 3 the right fluid for a 360?

 

AFAIK, the new PN fluid is not the same as the old DOT 3 stuff that came in the metal cans. Try doing a search at corner-carvers.com

 

Refreshing this thread to see if anyone has any fluid updates?

I had my 360 out yesterday with ATE, floating aerorotors, and carbotech xp10s and cooked the fluid after 3 decent (novice) laps @ sears pt.

Trying to decide if Brembo LCF 600 makes the most sense (cost, performance, oem mfr...)

Thanks,
Nathn

 

Motul RBF 600 or RBF 660.

Castrol SRF is better still but more expensive.

If you change it often Ford heavy duty truck DOT 3 fluid has a good dry boiling point but the wet boiling point is pretty low.



ATE is a very average brake fluid. When I tested brake fluids at Laguna Seca in a Daytona it rated the lowest of any. Even Mercedes branded plain old brake fluid went longer without boiling.

 

^^ALL THIS, but my experience is SRF is the best, period.^^

 

Brakes do not make you faster. The best fluid is a poor substitute for proper technique and a good brake system for the application.

 

****, dis is easy. Just floor it and turn left. Junior Johnson.

Dale

 

I hope I did not come off "flip." Honestly 90% of the time we racers blame the car first. Racing is like "AA"...you have to acknowledge your a car blaming alcoholic before you can move on and go faster. So I'm coming into this turn with a real pro in the right seat asking me to show him what I got. I fly into this turn hard on the brakes at about 145 doing everything to tame my car and keep my momentum. We switch places he flys into the turn 160 I swear we are going to die in my car and I know my car can't do what he is asking. Well the car was settled and poised and exited hugely faster to be carried all the way down the next straight. When we got out of the car I asked him how hard he was pushing it. His reply "about 80%, its not my car." I learned a lot about brakes that day.