Belt Replacements on Mondial 3.2 | Page 5 | FerrariChat

Belt Replacements on Mondial 3.2

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by soucorp, Apr 24, 2013.

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  1. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
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    #101 PV Dirk, Jun 13, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    You are from Colorful Colorado? I was there but didn't see your house :D
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  2. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    I guess you just raised one on TED.
    Good to hear from you Hank. Now that we managed to convince PV Dirk to come to Palooza, how about we start a Hank fund to help pay your way to the east coast. Where do I send my $100? What's Palooza of Mondials with out Hank Sound?

    -Mike
     
  3. Valenzo

    Valenzo F1 Veteran

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    Oh im so in on that fund.

    I'll match the $100 and raise it $50.
     
  4. jgoodman

    jgoodman F1 Rookie
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    #104 jgoodman, Jun 13, 2013
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    I'll throw in a glass of something to wet Hank's whistle.
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  5. hank sound

    hank sound F1 Veteran

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    #105 hank sound, Jun 13, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Boys, I know the emotion behind what I'm reading here - is coming from your collective hearts - and truly, I am touched - I get it. But if I needed your help to get me and Rachel to Mondipalooza, I would certainly need your to help in getting to to some island off Thailand. This trip has been an "Asian cooking freak's" dream for a very long time. I simply can't do both (developing products really costs A LOT!) - - but I'm damn happy that I can do one.

    Whether you're parked on Jay's lawn, or riding the kid's rides at the park, or eating dinner at one of the chosen dining stops ................ my love is continually with you all. I must stop now or the print on your screen will smudge - - from my tears :) .......

    Cheers,

    Hankie
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  6. Valenzo

    Valenzo F1 Veteran

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    There my buddy. Looking good there, Hank. But Hank, this wasn't an effort out of your need, but rather an attempt to bribe or guilt you in meeting ours.. I know all about the cost of developing and marketing ones ideas, hell it almost cost us 250.00 to change your, mind. ;)

    You will be with us, and since Jay offered, we will be hittin that GL21 just in your honor.

    Good looking at you Hank
     
  7. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    #107 soucorp, Jun 14, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2013
    +1.... I couldn't have said it better myself! I'll drink in Hank's honor any day of the week, twice on Palooza! Knowing how you operate, the Thai cooking thing will be a Big Hit buddy! I think I know what I'm having for lunch today.

    Cheers
     
  8. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    Thanks to everyone that I have reached out to for help and a special thanks to Dave Helms for his guidance and insight.
    Its been a great Father's Day so far, lunch with my parents, wife, kids, and the car started and ran just fine. Happy Father's Day to all.

    Here is the video, looks like its running normal:
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M3Q7R2OKrW0]My Ferrari Mondial Cambelts adjusted to TDC - YouTube[/ame]

    -Mike
     
  9. hank sound

    hank sound F1 Veteran

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    Hey Mikey,

    Happy Father's Day & CONGRATS on a job, well done!!! Now we all know who Robin's daddy is (you) - - - and we also know who your's is :):):)

    Cheers,

    Hankie
     
  10. TheMac

    TheMac Formula Junior

    Sep 5, 2009
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    Great job Mike! Good to see the belts are on and the engine runs no problem!

    I bet you can't wait to finish putting it all back together and drive it!
     
  11. jgoodman

    jgoodman F1 Rookie
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    +1

    Mike, was that the first time in that video you turned her over? You had to be nervous!
     
  12. adamae82

    adamae82 Karting

    Nov 22, 2011
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    Mike, job well done. Happy father's day
     
  13. davebdave

    davebdave Formula 3
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    Congrats Mike! To borrow words from your son, "Don't scare me." Put some coolant in that thing. :)

    Dave
     
  14. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran
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    I had the same thinking Dave!

    Great job Mike, can't wait to meet you in Hershey. And the car ;-)
     
  15. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    #115 soucorp, Jun 17, 2013
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    Thanks everyone, I'm just glad I'm back on track. Lessons learned, the right front facing 5-8 belt tensioners have a lot of slack, be sure to tighten them as tight as the rear facing 1-4 belts. This is what cause my tooth jump for sure. Also to note: the cam pulley was real hard to move by hand when I tried to rotate it back to align it with the other cam pulley marks.

    Per Dave Helms, when the engine is at TDC firing of #1 cylinder, the cam lobes are such where the exhaust and intake valves are both closed and the cams 'do not want' to rotate. In this position, cylinder #5, the next in line to fire, has one of the cam lobes holding a valve near wide open and 'wants' to fall off that lobe. You are just putting it back on that lobe and the resistance felt in turning the cam is the opening of that valve.

    With the spark plugs in the engine, turning against compression, often the tensioners adjust a little tighter and Dave says thats normal, I definitely felt it.

    Btw, to rotate the cam pulley, I used what I had around without a proper shop cam wrench, I found that my oil filter wrench was the right size and fit to hold and rotate the cams. Worked like a charm and did not damage any of the teeth. It gave me that extra leverage needed to move the spring loaded cams. After the TDC marks aligned, I used my home made wooden locks to lock the cams again, put back the belts and tensioners, and rotated the crankshaft manually a few rotations without feeling any obstructions.

    Success !
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  16. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    As in the video, I was a nervous wreck and what you saw was the first time the car started after the new belts on. I charged the battery over night so it had plenty of juice. The red battery light on the dash was because of the alternator not hooked up, everything else seemed normal to me. Now its all about putting everything back on. I hope the new waterpump is air tight. Still have my new Kumhos to put on, detail the car, and test drive the car for a week before Palooza. stay tuned for Willie's song "...on the road again" :)

    Cheers
     
  17. porphy

    porphy Formula 3
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    #117 porphy, Jun 17, 2013
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2013
    All of this is VERY instructive. Thanks for the wonderful documentation and innovative solutions to sticky problems. See you at the Mondipalooza.
     
  18. davem

    davem F1 Veteran
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    Kudos to you, way to persevere and get her done right!
     
  19. mulo rampante

    mulo rampante Formula Junior

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    A little late to the party, but I'll extend my congratulations, Mike. Thorough and rigorous would be an understatement for the level of effort you put into making sure this was right.
     
  20. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    Thanks for your help as well Charles.

    Per Dave Helms, the 'final test' is to pull the fuel pump fuse and just crank it. You will be able to hear if all cylinders are causing the same load on the starter. I haven't had time to try it yet, maybe today.

    btw, does anyone know the proper steps on how to add coolant back in and bleeding the air out? I know there's 2 bleed valves one on top of the thermostat and the other on the front radiator. I will have to look it up. thanks.
     
  21. mulo rampante

    mulo rampante Formula Junior

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  22. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    #122 soucorp, Jun 18, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Nice, I forgot that this was on BirdmanFerrari, thanks Charles.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Bleeding the Ferrari 308 & Mondial Cooling system
    Thanks to BIRDMAN's Write-up: Follow my 14 simple steps--it's easy! Even I can do it! This sounds tricky, but it's not. I'm just going into great detail here:

    1. Park the car on level ground.

    EXPANSION TANK - FILL HERE!
    2. If you are starting with an empty cooling system, such as one that you have just drained to replace the coolant, fill it through the expansion tank until it stops taking more coolant. Fill it all the way to the top of the tank, because the level will go down as you bleed. Keep in mind that a 308 with no coolant (i.e. fully drained) will take upwards of 6 gallons of coolant! There is a lot of plumbing to fill. Do not replace the expansion tank cap.

    RADIATOR BLEEDER SCREW
    3. Open the bleeder screw on the radiator a couple turns until air comes out. (pic above) The bleeder is on the top right coner of the radiator (passenger side in a LHD car or drivers side in a RHD car). Please note that the bleeder screw has a tiny hole drilled in it to allow the air out when loosened. You do not need to completely remove the bleeder screw--just unscrew it a couple turns. If you remove it, you will have a hard time getting it back in when coolant starts squirting out of the radiator, especially if the coolant is hot!

    NOTE: The bleeder screw on the radiator ought to have a thin copper crush washer on it to seal. If it doesn't, you will end up having to crank it really tight to keep it from dribbling. You will eventually break the screw if that is the case. I find that replacing the copper washer with a neoprene rubber washer from the hardware store (as pictured above) seals a lot better and makes it so this thing stays closed with just finger tightness.

    4. Now check the coolant level in the expansion tank. If it went down a lot, pour some more coolant in. Do not replace the cap. Remember that if the coolant in the expansion tank gets to the bottom of the tank, air may stop coming out of the radiator, even though there is more air in there. You need the coolant level in the expansion tank to force itself into the system.

    ENGINE BLEED ON WATERPUMP HOUSING
    5. Now you need to bleed the engine. The bleeder is located on the top of the thermostat housing, on the right side of the engine. On a carb car, it is annoyingly located right under the intake hose/airbox, and hard to open with the airbox in place.. On an injected car, it is a little easier to reach to the right of the plenum. Because the bleeder is on top of the housing, on the radiator side of the thermostat, you may not be able to get much air out until the engine is up to temperature and the thermostat opens.

    NOTE that this engine bleeder does not have a bleed hole drilled in it like the one on the radiator, and to get the best bleeding effect, you have to actually remove the screw. BE CAREFUL not to drop it. The best thing to do is to buy an ultra-cool EZBleed screw and never have this problem again! If you have a carb car and you want to have a prayer of bleeding the engine with the airbox in place, you need an EZBleed screw.

    6. Replace the bleeder screw when no more air comes out. Keep in mind that you may not get much air out of this end with the cold engine and the thermostat closed.

    7. Top off the coolant expansion tank. Do not replace the cap.

    8. Start the car and turn the heat to full hot.

    9. While the car is idling and warming up, bleed the front again. Hold a towel under the bleeder so that when the coolant dribbles out, it doesn't land on your radiator and make a mess. Don't bother with the rear bleeder. You need the thermostat to open first.

    10. Once the radiator fans kick on, you know that the thermostat is open. Now bleed the front and rear again. When you bleed the rear, DO NOT remove the bleed screw all the way. Scalding hot water will come out, you will drop the screw and the washer and coolant will spew all over the engine. Unscrew the bleeder far enough that the air can escape around the threads. Once coolant starts sputtering around the threads, close it up. This is a terrible bleeder screw design and what you should really do is buy an EZBleed screw that works much better because it has a bleed hole drilled through it like the radiator bleeder.

    11. Replace the expansion tank cap.

    12. Go for a short drive around the block with the heater going full blast. It will be no fun at all getting baked in the car, but this jiggling gets all the rest of the air to collect in the high spots of the engine and radiator. Get the car good and hot. Having the heat on gets the air out of the heater hoses. A lot of air can get stuck in there.

    13. Park the car on level ground and shut it off. The pressure in the system will allow you to bleed both ends again. Having the engine off makes it quiet enough to hear the air coming out.

    14. The next time you go to drive the car, first check that you have enough coolant in the expansion tank before starting it. Then start it and wait until it reaches operating temp (after a drive, for example) and bleed both ends one more time. You should get a tiny bit more air out. Now are you done? No. Do it again the next time you drive the car. You will get a little more air out each time. After 3 drive/bleed cycles, you should have it all out. Yes, it's a pain, but once bled right, the sucker will run cooler!

    IF THE CAR DRIBBLES FROM THE OVERFLOW
    If the car dribbles some coolant from the expansion tank overflow tube when you take it for a drive, keep in mind that the normal fill level (when cold) is about half full. This leaves room for coolant expansion in the tank. (That's why it's called an expansion tank, duh!). If the expansion tank ended up being overfilled, the car will purge the excess the first time you get it up to full temperature. Once it does that, you should not have any more dribbling. If you continue to have overflow issues...bleed it again because you probably still have air in there! I am always surprised at how many times you have to bleed it to get all the air out after a coolant change. If it still dribbles, you likely have a bad radiator cap on the expansion tank. They go bad. When they go bad, they no longer hold against the pressure of the cooling system and they allow the coolant to boil. The car overheats. You do not need a 1.1 bar cap. When operating properly, the stock 0.9 bar cap is fine. You also do not need a $50 radiator cap in a yellow box with a horsie on it. Go to NAPA and match it up. They are under $10.
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  23. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    Per Dave Helms, the 'final test' is to pull the fuel pump fuse and just crank it. You will be able to hear if all cylinders are causing the same load on the starter.

    I did this test yesterday and sent the video to Dave for his insight.
    This was what I wanted to hear back from Dave:

    "Sounds completely symmetrical and rhythmical to my ear. Had you bent a valve it would be heard as a slight skip in an otherwise even pull against the starter. I think you have nothing but a few hoses to hook up and then a summer of fun ahead... Enjoy! "

    Thanks so much to Dave Helms for his guidance and now its time to enjoy the summer!
    Cheers,

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QvAyTBDzMo]Ferrari Mondial 3.2 engine start with Fuel Pump fuse out - YouTube[/ame]
     
  24. soucorp

    soucorp F1 Rookie

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    #124 soucorp, Jun 25, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Ok, guys, my car is just about all ready except this one last issue.
    It appears that my AC compressor belt is 1" bigger than the old belt. I bought the major service kit which came with Cambelts, water pump, alternator, and AC belt. All fits fine except I can not get the AC belt to fit, its really loose and my ac compressor adjusting bolts are all the way adjusted to the max, I can't make it any tighter.

    Am I doing something wrong or is this belt made for a 328 rather than a Mondail 3.2.
    When I compare the 2 belts new/old, the old belts fit into the new belt and definitely smaller in diameter. I will ask Daniel for his advice but for now, may just leave the AC belt off and drive it to Palooza as is. Thoughts?
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  25. Ricambi America

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    You need 124108. I will send it today.
     

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