battery warning light on after replacement | FerrariChat

battery warning light on after replacement

Discussion in '348/355' started by fcefalu, Apr 19, 2023.

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  1. fcefalu

    fcefalu Rookie

    Oct 25, 2012
    4
    Hi all, i have a small issue with my F355 Convertible, just replaced the battery and the red warning light on the dashboard is still on and red!

    Is there any reset procedure to take the light off that i can perform by myself without having to take the car to a Ferrari Dealer?

    Thanks in advance for your help
     
  2. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    Ian Riddell
    #2 Qavion, Apr 19, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2023
    Sounds like an alternator problem or wiring issue. The battery/alternator light is not driven by a computer. There is nothing to reset.

    How good are you with a multimeter? Can you read a wiring diagram? You may be able to do some basic wiring/voltage checks.

    Anyway, recheck your battery connections. There is a small red wire coming off the positive terminal of the battery (as well as the big one). Make sure it hasn't broken. Alternator wiring is also known to break near the alternator connector. Do you have any way of lifting the car to check underneath?

    Any auto-electrician should be able to help you if you tell him where everything is (connectors, etc).

    What year is your car?
     
    Red575 and Mike Morrissey like this.
  3. michaelz

    michaelz Karting

    Jul 7, 2017
    76
    Melbourne Australia
    Was that battery light on before you changed the battery?

    If the light was off before and you just changed the old battery, there's a little sensor wire which goes onto the positive terminal. If you didn't attach it properly or if the wire is corroded (which is generally is) it will throw the battery light.

    Might be also worth checking if the small ground wire under the body is damaged or not.

    If the light was on before you changed batteries, when car is running, get a volt meter and check voltage across the terminals. It should be at least 13.5V, if less than 12V then your alternator is not charging which will also throw the battery light. This will be the more expensive fix chances are alternator will need a rebuild or replacement.
     
  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Or if you've put the wheel arch cover back on and have put the wheel back on, check the voltage on the engine bay battery bus bar (right hand side under a plastic cover with a red "+" on it)

    OR... buy one of these

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/353934048871?
     
  5. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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  6. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

    Feb 17, 2020
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    Kevin Bennett
    Sounds like the alternator is not charging the battery.
    Put a voltmeter on the battery and measure the voltage with the car running, then turn the headlights on, the voltage should stay the same and not drop.
    The voltage should be up around 14V. Engine off the voltage should be 11.5-12V...
     
  7. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Dec 22, 2011
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    Miroljub Stojanovic
    11.5-12V is very low. Healthy battery should have ~13 volts immediately after the engine has been switched off and stabilise at ~12.6 volts a couple of hours later.
    11.5 V means the battery has only 10% of charge
    12 V means the battery has 40% of charge
    Keeping the battery at so low state of charge will cause its accelerated sulfation and premature failure.
     
  8. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

    Feb 17, 2020
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    Kevin Bennett
    I made an error in my post, I meant to say, engine running and alternator not charging, the voltage could be 11.5-12V......
     
  9. Gizzi

    Gizzi F1 Veteran
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    Dec 3, 2011
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    Brisbane, Australia
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    Gezim
    Certainly sounds like the alternator.
    They use a Denso with a 3 pin connector.
    Unplug the connector and check that you have a battery positive in one of the 3 wires.
    Then turn your ignition on and make sure you have an ignition signal there as well. The third wire is the warning light.
    As long as you have those three voltages there, the wiring will be good and you have a faulty alternator.
    They are easily rebuildable. The regulator is readily available. A standard Denso IG-S-L regulator is standard in them - Transpo do an equivalent - IN220 part no.
    The rectifier is normally what fails, and it is also easily replaceable.
    Any auto Elec will be able to do it for you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  10. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

    Feb 17, 2020
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    Kevin Bennett
    Depends on the year of the car, I believe pre-1992 they use a Delco Alternator, worth investigating before assuming...
     
  11. Gizzi

    Gizzi F1 Veteran
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    ?
    A pre -92 355?
    That’s called a 348.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. KevZep

    KevZep Formula Junior

    Feb 17, 2020
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    Kevin Bennett
    LOL, I'm a moron aren't I!!
    But everything you say is right, most likely a failed rectifier or regulator.....
     

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