uzz..Thank you for posting this...I was at a loss as to how to get them out until I saw your post on how to get the bushings out..again many thanks. I was convinced the metal ring was welded in or something. I found a lower rocker arm that was in a fire damaged car to replace the one that previous owner damaged when hitting the curb. I thought maybe the fire did something to make them stick, but the rubber was not burned, so I guess they are that tight. Now that I got them out, any advice on putting the new bushings in?
IIRC the outer shells are tacked in, to the arm itself? I have seen jobs where new units were slipped into the old shells, it was urethane ones that were offered with or without the outer shell if you wanted to use this method. Love the engine stand!!!
The outer shells are only tack welded into 308's, not Testarossa or 512TR. The new bushes will slip in quite easy, it's the removal that's difficult because there is no shoulder to press against. On the way in, there is a shoulder to work with. However, I have had success with a threaded rod and use this and a nut and flat washer on one end, and use another flat washer and nut to basically pull the bush into place by simply tightening up the nut.Plenty of lubrication, grease not a spray, and they slip in and seat very nicely. The arms are too weak to use a press in my opinion, and using the threaded rod to pull the bush into the arm is much more sympathetic on the entire unit.
It's nice to see that you already have the same parts as the 512TR !! It may look like this afterwards ... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Mel, Are the new bushings in the photo urethane or original style rubber? IMHO I would think the urethane might be too harsh, The manual calls for different type of rubber bushings front and rear. Ago
Been away with work for a bit but home again now. Picked up these today. 836 nice freshly coated parts. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Subframe and all painted and powdercoated parts are complete and ready to collect Monday. Then the job really starts. I have to remember where everything goes!!!
Rob, I happen to know that your lady knows more about the parts on your Testarossa than you do AND she is far prettier than you as well...... P
Well, it's begun! Started to put the old girl back together today. I have finished all of the painting work on the gearbox, oil pipes, gearbox end and side plates, sump cover etc. Yesterday we sorted through the 800+ pieces that came back from the cad coater and this evening I made a start. Gearbox end plate has now been refitted and torqued. Waiting for the selector rod bush to arrive before I fit the actual selector rod back into the gearbox and then the side cover can go on and finish. Oil pipes are now refitted to the rear of the engine. These are thecast pipes that the oil filter screws onto. I had to remove these and the gearbox end plate to be able to clean, prime and paint all into the rear of the engine. Side cover plates for the fdiff have been test fitted and now I need to devise a way to get these on and off reasonably easy to allow fittment of the diff unit. They fit REALLY tight and it's this clearance; or lack thereof; that mounts the diff properly. Makes it damn difficult to take them on and off many times when shimming the diff though. They nearly need three grub screw machined into the outer flange that you can screw in to assit in pulling the diff carriers away from the gearbox casing. It's nearly time to flip it over again. I'm going to take off the injection system and get access to the top of the engine. I've done all this before about three years ago, but I just know it will be dirty in there again in those areas that you just can't reach. Particularly the web areas of the block under neath of the injection system. Might as well do it all again whilst I'm about it. Last time I painted those small plates that access the big end bolts, but this time they can go off to the cad platers and be fitted exactly as they were originally.
Rob, The side covers should slide on and off fairly easily provided they are kept square when moving. Obviously you do the shimming without the large O rings in place and only put them in when finally assembling the unit. When fitting the diff through the rear case you can sort of get one side (I think from memory best the left) and then after getting a couple of nuts on the case move the other side in while lifting the diff to centre it. I cannot see any reason not to trial fit without the crown wheel to get the preload correct and then keep the difference between shims the same and adjust to get the backlash correct. Remember when using an old crown and pinion there is a wear tolerance that can come into play for tolerance if the mesh pattern is not exact.
That's what I thought Mike, but even my orignal LHS carrier is bloody tight. You can't knock it on with a rubber hammer, need to pull it on with bolts. And it came off................the new one is just as bad. Buggered if I know how, there is no paint, no marks to bind against, seems crazy.
Here's some pics of stuff you don't get to see everyday. Cleaning up the gearbox, removing the top layer of paint and all the grime, but leaving the Ferrari primer intact where possible. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Stripping the end off the gearbox and the oil pipes removed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The blue is actually a blue/grey VHT ceramic based engine primer. It's designed for cast products and is designed to keep them oil tight. Looking into the side of the gearbox with the side cover removed. Remember we are upside down! Not cleaned yet. The black dribbles are ferrite tannate to penetrate the studs for removal and cleaning. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The selector shaft has been removed in the pictures above to fit the new bush and allow the entire end of the gearbox to be removed.
Stud removal. Broken and rusted exhaust studs being removed from the heads. Oil pickups looking into the sump. Sump cover removed and base of gearbox stripped. New diff carrier test fitting. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Cleaned and primed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
A few more: Side carrier fittment. Clutch cover final paint. Finished product using VHT engine enamel in Cast Aluminium colour. Gives a 'speckled' finish and looks exactly like the factory original, but it's a bit bright. Aparently it softens off if it's baked, or after a few heat cycles on the car. Time will tell. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Finished gearbox now all painted and starting to go back together. It's so nice to use brand new nuts, washers and bolts whch is how it feels when your old bolts come back clean and shiny from the cad coaters. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
