OEPPSS another diff gone ..... ? Spazgaz, like Han asked: please tell us more about it ... What was damaged, how did you find parts, where, who repaired the gearbox and so on ...
Mine let go around 3 years ago while cruising at 100km/h. No bang, just heaps of smoke. Was only 2-3min from home where I found the oil pouring out was full of metal shavings. Put it on the truck and off to the mechanic http://www.terzinimotore.com.au/index.htm and only knew it was the diff once they started pulling it apart. The only other major component needing replacement was the carrier. Waited many weeks for the parts to come in from Europe but the car was on the road again in 6 weeks. Sandro Terzini really appreciates and specialises in the older Italian models. He has a good contact who is able to source many components out of Europe. I understood the new diff to be off the 512tr, regardless it was certainly the upgraded version. First significant trip after the repair was a track day and it hasn't missed a beat. I treat the testicleroaster like a museum piece so no smoking tyres, but once in gear I'm not afraid to drive it as it was intended to be driven. If something breaks I'll just get it repaired. This has been the only major mechanical malfunction in 12 years of ownership.
Were all "mates" Spasso, Brits and Auzzies just don't take it literally. Even the girlies are "blokes" or "Chaps" P
Hello Phil; No offense taken....I live around San Francisco....some of the "girliest" girlies are BLOKES!!!!.....Mark
Hello Rob, I like your garage very much and lay out of equipments and your mini office.I am planning to do the same arrangement like yours. I have two Testarossa's and one 512 TR spider.I already started restoring them all at once. I am sorry about the Testarossa diff failure you have.But these Testarossas like lovely beautiful woman that you can not resist their needs.You just pay and watch. I am following your thread and please to watch things. Regards
Thanks Shaikhzeep, Would be nice if you filled in your profile so we know who you are and where in the World you are. Two TR's and a 512TR. Wow that's some collection.
Time for a quick update. During the last week or so I've been chained to the wire wheel or the sandblaster. It's amazing how many nuts, bolts and shims need to be removed and every one of them needs to be cleaned, blasted, painted or coated. My plan has been to pull things off the car and drop them straight into marked sandwich bags. Then take them to the wire wheel or sand blasting cabinet a couple of bags at a time and do the cleanup. Then I write down the contents, measure everting, length of bolt, width and thickness of washer, type of nut etc and then bag and tag them ready to go out to the plating company. I was doing pretty well with this. Hours and hours of tedium, but I've become really good at garage karaoke much to the chagrin of the neighbours I'm sure. The stereo has been cranking nearly as much as the pot belly stove as it's heading into Winter here, and it'***** with severity this last week. A few days ago I dropped yet another zip lock bag of completed bolts onto the pile, and shock - horror, some of the sandblasted bolts have started already to rust up. Sandblasting removes every layer of possible protection. You handle it and the moisture on your skin will cause a reaction so I've been gloved up, but obviously the moisture in the cold night air has taken it's toll. I think I may have sprayed a few nasty words around the shed, but in the end I formulated another plan. Back to the sandblaster I go. Another six hours of the bent back syndrome and I'm looking more like the hunchback from NotreDam more every day. But................the wife is out so I sneak into the house and grab her cryovac machine and a reasonable selection of bags. Back to the shed I go and start cryovac packaging the parts. That should stop the rust and give added protection until it's time to go to the platers. Great plan.....and I got the machine back into the cupboard before anyone was the wiser. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's something else that made my life full of joy. Started on the rear lower control arms a few days ago. Removed the brake lines, backed off the handbrake shoes and removed the rotor and caliper. Dissasembled the handbrake internals. I managed to remove the cone where the handbrake cable goes into the hub and then removed the hub assembly and set it aside with the greasy end of the CV joint connection all covered and taped up. All good to now>>>>>>>>>>>> Next I removed the lower control arm. No real problems. Both bolts came out nicely and still had factory gold passivate colouring. Nice. Then the top arm. Started on the top front bolt. No issues. Bolt pops out, look like it was fitted last month. Not so easy with the rear upper bolt. Nut came off but the bolt wouldn't move. Tried to turn the bolt with a 1m breaker bar, nothing!! Damn.........slide the trolley jack handle over the breaker bar. about 7 feet long now. That will either fix it or f**k it I'm thinking. Whichever way, it's coming out. Nope, tore the guts out of the bush the same as the front shocker. Out with the air powered hacksaw and carbon blades. Damn that's good steel in those bolts but it's a shame that Mario or Guido didn't put any copper eze on those bolts when they installed the control arms. As I previously found in the front shockers, the bolt had rusted to the inside of the control arm bush and fused in there. So of the two upper control arm bolts. The one towards the front of the car, on both sides of the car, came out looking like a brand new gold coloured bolt. Yet the two rear most upper control arm bolts were both siezed solid. So in total I've had to cut through both sides of four bushes to get the control arms and/or shockers off. Still got the front upper arms to remove and then the fun job of getting the bushes out of the arms. Really looking forward to that - NOT! If you blokes in America hear some thunder rumbling and look out the window to see a beautiful sunshine day, then you won't have to wonder where the thunder is coming from coz it will be Rob's shed!! Reckon the nearby neighbours may learn a couple of new expletives before this job is over. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So here's the weapon of choice. Air operated hacksaw with a high speed steel carbon blade. Slip it in alongside the washer on one side and beside the arm on the other side of the bush. This way you will cut through the rubber pretty quickly and get to the meat of that 10mm bolt. Hope not too many of you have to deal with this problem, but if you do, then this technique worked pretty well. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So now a last check. - Handbrake cable removed - tick! - All brake lines removed - tick! - Brake line joiner block removed - tick! - Engine earth strap removed - tick! - Fine U shaped bolts that secure the red 'anderson' plug removed - tick! Okay, lift the engine off the subframe and there it is in all it's naked glory. Ready to cart off to the sandblaster and then it's to be powdercoated in satin black. All control arms and engine mounts will join the sub frame for a trip to the blaster and coaters. One tip. You don't want powdercoat going inside the control arm sleeves or the bushes will be too tight, so locate some decent rubber hose - NOT PLASTIC - and cut to the length of the control arm sleeves. The hose needs to be a firm fit into the sleeve. If it's too big, just slice a bit out. It will join together when pushed into the sleeve. The idea is to give a solid lining to the sleeve hole to keep the powdercoat out. The operator can still hang the arms through the hose lined sleeve and real rubber can easily take the 220 degrees of a powdercoat cupboard. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
@ I understood the new diff to be off the 512tr, regardless it was certainly the upgraded version. @ If I order a diff now in the F factory, I indeed will get a 512TR diff OEM. These are the ones that all break ... believe me. If you have pictures of the repair (why not ?) they should show wheter it is or is not the enhanced diff. The F factory offerd me a "refurbished 512TR" gearbox of the latest revisionin Febuary 2012. When I asked which diff went in ... it was part number of the real OEM 512TR one, so the wrong one !!! If we can see the pics, we can very easily tell you which version went in if you want us to tell you Please ask the mechanic for photo's; it is only good for yourself to know what went in.
Time for another update. I've been working on some way to create and engine stand for the flat 12 so that it can be rotated upside down to allow work on the extractor studs, gearbox bolts etc. The exhaust studs are seriously rusted, three have already broken off and I don't fancy drilling and tapping holes upside down. Much easier to work standing over the job where there is some control. I spent ages looking at the engine sitting there ont he bench. There just isn't anywhere to attach decent mounts. The two tabs on the rear to hold the alternator and the AC compressor are simply cast into the alloy block and don't appear to have much strength at all. The studs that hold the clutch cover on are only 8mm and again they only fix into alloy of the clutch cover. There just isn't anything at all. Then I had a thought. Support the engine by the crank and rotate it through that axis. The flywheel bols to the crank with eight bolts so that's not too bad to get fixings. I machined up a disc, matched the PCD of the holes and created a blank that fits over the flywheel locating pin and bolts directly to the end of the crank. I welded a length of pipe to this to mount into an engine stand. The other end wasn't as simple. I decided to make a plug to go inside the harmonic balancer, but then came accross an old pulley that slipped perfectly over the outside of the Ferrari harmonic balancer / pulley. I spun this out on the lathe, fixed a backing plate and welded a similar pipe to this. This gave me the two pivot points. Next it was on to build the stand. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have a standard engine stand for a normal V8 so I figured I'd use this and modify it to hold the big 12. First step was to make the post verticle as they normally lean back a little. Then some carefull measurements, a long steel bar to use like a boring bar, and a day or two of cutting and welding steel. All came together really well and the engine fits in it perfectly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here's close ups of the pivot mechanism mounted to the engine and everything in the frame. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The large rings with the bolts sticking out are sliding lock rings. Mount the engine, centre it on the stand and then slide and lock the rings. This wont let the engine slip at all. Remember, I only have it bolted at one end, but the other end is simply pushed over the pulley, not secured to it. Here's the engine mounted. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Are you going to drill more holes in the pipe so that you could rotate the engine & lock it in at 22-1/2....45...67-1/2....90 degrees?....You are UNBELIEVEABLE Robert....you even go the EXTRA Mile/Kilometer & PAINT the stand!!!!!....Mark
So I'm all done and ready to start the serious work now of rotating the engine, cleaning the gearbox, fixing the exhaust studs etc. Sitting back having a beer and admiring my handiwork but then an element of doubt starts to creep in and fester. I drop the beer, back to the chain block and lift the engine again. Just enough to take the load off the engine stand. What's bothering me is the crankshaft bearings. I have a lot of weight sitting on them and I don't know what they are made from, if they are hard or soft. Could this static weight damage them? I just don't know. I expect that the loads on a crankshaft bearing when the engine is firing are bloody substantial so by all rights, what I've built should work perfectly. BUT........................... So I figured I'd ask you guys that know about these things maybe more than I do. Am I okay to suspend the engine this way. There is no shock load. Just pure weight. The stand works perfectly but is there any possibility of damaging the engine? I'm not throwing this out there looking for comments. I'm looking for facts and / or educated point of views based on experience with these or similar engines.
Sure Mark. At present whilst the paint dries I have a single 1/2" pin at the verticle position. I will do a number or lock pin points so I can stop the rotation at various points. 4 points may do it. Using the stand would make doing valve shims a breeze, then work on the gearbox or underneath, then rotate around again to do the other side vales, then back to normal to work on the injection etc.
Rob you should send PAP348 a copy of this stand. No doubt he will use it to cook his Souvlaki/Giros. Sure you weren't Greek in your previous life? Wow well done...yell out when you need a hand. My new TR diff started going in today. I'll bring it around when finished. It will be interesting to see if it drives differently with a "racing diff" in it. Apparently we need to add an additive to the diff oil to stop shuddering?
Where's your car Dean. Dixon's or Terzini's? It should drive exactly the same. The diff has racing heritage but has been set up for street driving. I'll research the oil additive issue and come straight back to you.
