Anyone using Sears Die Hard battery Automatic Charger/Maintainer?

From the Sears website:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02871219000P

Read the product reviews, in particular, the first review. Sounds like when the yellow light is on, even with the green "charge complete" light on, the maintainer is STILL charging and will overcharge your battery. A defect, so return it and get something else until they get this issue resolved.

WalMart and Target both sell battery maintainers that include a cigarette lighter adapter. WalMart's is less than $20 (Black and Decker). The Target one is made by Duracell, I think it was closer to $30.

 

Dean.....I think the reason both lights would be on, is because the car is still using current with the alarm and stereo memory. If all current stopped then it should show a 'charge complete' light only. This would only be the case if the battery disconnect switch was off and the charger was connected directly to the battery only and not through the cigarette lighter/car eletrical system.....

 

I don't believe so. It is an "either or" scenario...if it is still charging, then it is not "complete". I have a Griot's Garage battery tender with a similar red, yellow and green lights and never seen both the yellow and green lights on at the same time. Yellow is "charging", green is "charge complete" and red is indicating the unit is plugged in, so always on.

When those items you mention are drawing current, it requires the battery to draw down sufficiently for the battery tender to sense the lower voltage, then it will kick back into the charging mode and the green light will go out, and the yellow light will come back on. The owner's manuals for these things explain the "logic" of the microprocessor and the voltages required for "charging" and the "float" or "maintanence" mode (green light).

 

I have the same charger as Dean and it acts the same way as his.......... though I use the posts in the engine compartment. I will connect the charger directly to the battery and do the 'battery disconnect switch' to see if the yellow light stays on. I will report my findings ASAP...... .




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Ok I tried the Sears charger on the battery 'only' and the results are as described on post # 3.

 

I would get a different battery tender then. The float mode should be able to overcome the clock and radio memory function drain; it should not be constantly charging at the full 1.5 or 2 amps continously, or you will eventually overcharge and kill the battery. Also, the cigarette lighter adapter should not be getting warm (the charger WILL get warm, that is normal), there should only be 1.5 to 2 amps going through it, not enough to be causing it to get warm. Based on the post in the "Reviews" on the Sears website for the product, I suspect a flaw in the software for that product.

I have never had a battery tender that could not go into the full float mode on my 355, or my BMW (which has way more draw with the ignition off than the 355). I currently use two different Deltrans (1.25 amp and .8 amp), the Griots Battery Manager II 1.5 amp, a NAPA 1.5 amp, Griot's with multiple amp settings, but typically use the 2 amp, and a Sears with multiple settings, but typically used in the 2 amp mode. They will all shut off the "charging" light (if present) and go into the float mode without fail.

If it remains in the charging mode because of the clock and radio preset memory, then get another brand.

 

So throw it away no matter what eh............. ...... .......... well at least it is not defective...............and it does serve its purpose. The start/stop switch must be sensitive to very low amounts of current draw ...... .
I also have a monster charger w/starting capability and multiple amp settings. So this little one will be used as 'battery' charger/maintainer only............ not as a battery charger and car electrical system 'power supply'...... .

 

My thought is the that this sensitivity to low amounts of current draw is a flaw/defect. (The fact that Sears provided a cigarette lighter adapter tells me they did not intend for it to have to be connected directly to the battery only) If it is going to constantly charge because of this low draw, then you do not have a "battery tender/maintainer" but instead a "trickle charger" that is constantly charging at the 2 amp rate (in the case of this Sears product), and will eventually boil the electrolyte and damage the battery.

I would use it only in the specific case as you describe, directly attached to the battery and with all other accessories disconnected. For true "worry free" use, I would buy another battery tender/maintainer with a proven track record of operation with a small accessory draw that does not upset the microprocessor.


BTW, this is the review I was referencing from the Sears website:
"Good Idea..Poor Execution, June 24, 2008
By SpookF4E from Pensacola, FL "


"Bought this to compliment the Sears AGM battery for my motorcycle. For first few months it worked great - then stuck in the charge position and baked the battery and caused AGM battery to discharge acid onto the motorcycle frame! Both yellow light & green lamp would be illuminated at the same time, Took back to Sears and guess what - no stock in either the main store or automotive store - now, not on the web catalog either? I wonder why? Quality??????"

 

......... agreed........... a result as noted in the 'review' would not be good. I loaned this charger to my friend for an extended period on his motorcycle with no issues. But he probably had it connected to the battery only. Mine did not come with a lighter socket adapter but then I bought mine about two years ago. Good info there Mr. Rection ...... I will use mine when the battery is the only load on it.......

 

Whatever puts your mind at ease. I have used the cigarette lighter to charge my previous 328 for the entire 2.5 years I owned it. Did it for a few months on my 355, before the dealer installed an "on board" version for free.
And have been using the cigarette lighter on my BMW for 5 years without incident. In fact I do not recall EVER hearing of someone damaging a car by charging using a low amperage "battery tender" through the cigarette lighter plug (the BMW and Porsche branded Deltran and Ctek battery tenders sold at their respective dealerships all come with a cigarette lighter adapter). I suppose anything is possible in the grand universe of possibilities, but from a practical standpoint, I think it is mute. The lighter circuit is fused, and the battery tender has a built in circuit breaker, and most cigarette lighter adapters have an internal fuse as well...the risks are quite low.

Personally, I would feel more at ease if you simply purchased a brand other than the Sears/Schumacher that you have. It seems to be iffy on their quality control.

If you choose to hard wire, I would run the wire pigtail up from the battery, and through the "hatch" with the two black thumb screws in the passenger side of the trunk. You can run the pigtail up through the edge of the hatch, so you don't have to undo the screws each time to plug in. That is how I have mine currently set up with the NAPA "on board" battery tender. The 115 vt plug comes out from the edge of the cover and I simply raise the hood, and run an extension cord to the plug.

 

I dont think there is a hole there.......
Mine was put in through to just under that little 'two thumbscrew' hatch.

 

The method you are thinking of is for the 360/430. You will have to jack the car and remove the right front wheel, and the front part of the fender liner to get at the battery. You will also have to add some additional wire onto the pig tail, as I doubt it will reach from the battery, all the way up to the hatch in the trunk.

It is really not a big deal, the whole thing can be done in less than an hour.