Anyone having problems with the 296?

Airing your dirty laundry in public may result in negative consequences.

 

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No issues here at 3-months of ownership.

 

I would suggest replacing the 12V battery.

And, do not leave the 12V battery on tender all the time. Once a week for 12 hours or until back to full charge is all you need. The battery does not like being full charge all the time, it needs to relax.

 

I have had no issues on an Oct 22 car. I put the hybrid system on charge when I park up and I believe that will charge the 12v system as it sees fit.

 

Radio did not work, should be replaced next week.
Apple car Play did not work, fixed.
Mutiple noises from everywhere, dealership useless, I fixed most of them by myself with W40 Spray and felt from my wife .

 

Spend $400K on a car and you need to use W40 and cloth to address issues.

 

I also don’t see the point in doing this. Dealership will buy the car back for 100% paid immediately with one phone call, or keep car one year and make a profit. No real advantage to airing this out publicly.

 

What's the problem? He bought a car that he expects to work and is having issues, as are others. Aren't people allowed to talk about it and to let other potential owners know about things they can run into? @PieGre said the dealership was not helpful to him. He is frustrated. Max is frustrated. They should shut up and be quiet because Ferrari will come to the message board and be upset?

We are Ferrari fans, but not on Ferrari's payroll.

 

Yeah you idiot. What the hell were you thinking coming to an owner's forum to discuss your ownership experience?

You must have taken complete leave of your senses!

 

this is not what my dealer told me

 

Not to hijack but: Is it Ok to never plug in the hybrid system and to only recharge the hybrid system by driving?

 

I'm plugging it in mostly as I don't drive it every day.
To avoid having battery issues.

I was doing the same with my F12.

 

Ok, but that does not change the reality of how batteries work and the fact that batteries do not like be topped off all the time, it negatively impacts them by reducing the expected life

some relevant educational references:

https://www.crownbattery.com/news/what-kills-battery-life

https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-double-the-life-of-your-car-battery/

 

My dealer was adamant that whenever I'm not driving car, I should have it plugged in to the charger to ensure the battery level never drops too low. This recommendation was the same for both my 296 and SF90.

 

Don’t these chargers “trickle” down when the battery is full anyway and prevent over charging? They let it drop back down and the fill up again from there. At least that’s how my ctek works but I’m not sure on the model. These are smart chargers

 

As stated upstream, the CTEK tenders check the battery, do a fast charge to 80%, a slow charge to 100%, a test to confirm it can hold the charge, then put it in float / pulse mode. My 2014 458 Spider went over eight years on its original factory battery connected to a CTEK 7002 tender when not driven. I have a 2003 BMW Z4 (owned since new for 20 years now), that lasted over 10 years when left consistently on a CTEK 4.3 (for up to a year at a time, because . . . 458). We have an SUV (BMW X5) that barely made it five years being driven several times a week, but only put on a tender every two weeks. If a car comes with a battery tender port . . you should always use the battery tender.

STEP 1 DESULPHATION
Detects sulphated batteries. Pulsing current and voltage, removes sulphate from the lead plates of the battery restoring the battery capacity.
STEP 2 SOFT START
Tests if the battery can accept charge. This step prevents that charging proceeds with a defect battery.
STEP 3 BULK
Charging with maximum current until approximately 80% battery capacity.
STEP 4 ABSORPTION
Charging with declining current to maximize up to 100% battery capacity.
STEP 5 ANALYSE
Tests if the battery can hold charge. Batteries that can not hold charge may need to be replaced.
STEP 6 RECOND
Choose the Recond program to add the Recond step to the charging process. During the Recond step voltage increases to create controlled gassing in the battery. Gasing mixes the battery acid and gives back energy to the battery.
STEP 7 FLOAT
Maintaining the battery voltage at maximum level by providing a constant voltage charge.
STEP 8 PULSE
Maintaining the battery at 95–100% capacity. The charger monitors the battery voltage and gives a pulse when necessary to keep the battery fully charged

 

I like my 296 and I have no choice, the dealership won't take it back as the electronic problems will be fixed and the "noises" are no real argument. Sooo, I will have a go by myself ... or go to a different dealership around 4 hours away. Time will tell.

 

Thanks for the heads up--my friend had a bricked SF90 which was sold back to the dealer after the second retu4n for diagnostic repair for the electrical issues. Dealer was unable to fix.

 

7 months and 6000km in: only plugged the car in ONCE, and it was just to try it. Then again mine is never parked for more than a week.

And to reply to the main post: No problems with mine. Only once I floored it and got a DRS error message, the spoiler got stuck in the up position. I don’t know why or how but I parked, turned the car off and the spoiler went back in. Turned it on and went on my way, error disappeared and it never happened again.

 

Precisely- Any decent modern tender has 4 stages- The last being float- that is designed- and works flawlessly- to "maintain" the battery but not over charge it.

 

This is great to hear. I live in a high rise where it’s a challenge to plug in. I’m expecting my 296 this winter

 

Hey now, there's a backroom lounge here on F-chat for a reason.