Any experience with aftermarket EFI in a Ferrari ?

Why dont you take it to someone?

If you get this wrong it will be expensive

 

Can't you find a basemap for a European car that was using the same type of injection? Mercedes V8 & Porsche V8 come to mind.

If you are on the stock setup, the engine is meant to be easy on the mechanical injection (camshafts are not aggressive), so the base-map was quite smooth, and should not be vastly different to the German cars that were using the same setup.

This should be good enough to start the engine, but it will take more than that to pass the emission test in California.

 

I am facing a similar issue with an older Holley HP on a stock 305 Small Block Chevy. I upgraded from V4 to V6 (version) and the tuning wizard that gives the baseline start does not exist in V6. There are global files that can get you close but there was still a lot of adjusting in the laptop to make it match what I had. After that it would start and die, start and die. If you are live on the laptop, the base map will have a moving orb that will show where the system is using the map. I highlighted the area and started adding fuel as mine was very lean. Once I had it able to stay running, I slowly added fuel in areas where it was running. Once it hit 160 degrees then the learn table starts making adjustments for you based on the O2 readings and what you AF ratio is set to. Then you drive slowly and steadily in all areas to populate the learn map with changes needed. You then transfer the learn map to the base map and drive some more. it takes some time when you are doing a custom map table.
You need someone familiar with the system to walk you through the set up as well. There are many options. There are warm up tables that can be adjusted but need to be set as it is warming up. There are acceleration tables that act like accelerator pumps on your carb and one that is like a power valve to richen the mix under heavy load / low vacuum stuff. If the system is controlling spark, then that is another table completely and setting the base timing to accurately reflect what the crank timing make is seeing is very important. There is s way to lock the timing as it will be moving constantly at idle. This allows you to use a timing light to verify the timing. And so on and so on.

 

Great write up.

I'll be facing this same situation soon. I'm not totally sure which ECU to go with, but I have been researching all the big ones: Haltech, Megasquirt, AEM, MoTeC. There's also one called Link, although I don't know anything about it. I'm currently leaning towards the Haltech.

Do you have any experience with the Haltech?

Ray

 

Okay, thanks for the information.

I read an article a while back on the AEM one. I think they were talking about how it had a much faster CPU than all the rest. I'm not sure how important processing power is relative to engine management and/or at what level it's overkill. Let me look around and see if I can find the article.

I also looked into the Holly EFI stuff, but as you point out, they are way off in V8 muscle car land.

I believe this is the article I was thinking of:

https://nasaspeed.news/tech/electronics/processing-speed-aems-new-infinity-6-ecu-has-lightning-quick-reflexes/

Ray

 

I have nothing to off other than I hope you have success and can share what you find that works.

 

In my opinion, if you can't put together a file and tune it from scratch a base file isn't going to help you too much.

I put Holley efi on an old 426 hemi and converted it to coil on plug. If a base file existed for what I put together it wouldn't have saved me much time.

 

I have my file tweaked now and the truck runs really well. Drove it to work this morning, pulls hard, idles well. The idle air control is a bit too high so I need to open the throttle blades a bit and adjust zero. I think that will help a lot.

I know Holley is all up in the V8 muscle world but the system really doesn't care what it is on. It has no idea. Creating a base map that lets you start the engine is the hard part. After you start is it, even if it doesn't run, the data will tell you what it wants. Go to the map and adjust it and fire it up again. Once it is running, even poorly, you can adjust with a laptop in real time. I just started adding fuel in the area it was running (small red orb floats on the table where it is using the table) and it ran better. I just kept adjusting until it idled well. Then it gets to 160 degrees and starts adjusting itself. I don't think any system will have a base map that will make it easy. You will need to create your own and then tune it. I am about to put a 2 barrel version on a Mazda 12A and it won't care what it is running. I will tell it I have a 4 cylinder 1200 and let it eat. It will learn from the O2 and I will tweak it and it will be very nice.

I think I could put a Holley on anything and make it work.

 

That's very cool. Does it build the fuel map using data from a wide or narrow band O2 sensor?

Ray

 

It has a wide band O2. The Holley HP that I have uses a proprietary Holley O2. It is a Bosch O2 but the connection is Holley specific and that bad boy is $200.
The newer set ups have a standard connection and can use a less expensive Bosch O2. The one area that has been a chase is the Idle Air Control. Hot the IAC needs to be about 5-10%. There is a balance of throttle blade position vs idle speed target that you have to adjust back and forth. With a throttle position reset every time you touch it. It was idling at 3% last night and had heat soaked from sitting and was 200 degrees. That should be good now. Now it is just drive and learn.

 

Are you using the stock IAC valve or Holley? Fwiw the harness that came with mine was pinned for a Chrysler IAC (though had the same plug and appearance as a GM IAC)

 

Yeah, the world of the IAC valve is fun. One of my most popular videos on YouTube is explaining how the Idle Air Control Valve functions on the Toyota Pickup. Fun times.

Ray

 

Yes, I just discovered from my cold start data log that the IAC start position was 56%. I think that was part of the hunting it was doing for 25 seconds or so. It would start at 56 and then swing to try and get the idle right. It then settles nicely at 20%. I adjusted that down a bit to keep it from hunting so much. I haven't had a chance to try it yet but it should be better.

 

Does it have 'Auto-Tune'? I would never use one of these without this feature because it gets you going and the rest is fine-tuning.

Also join one of the Holley Forums, such as this one and ask for help there:

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holley-efi/commander-950-efi

Hope this helps a bit

 

It does have auto tune but when I upgraded to V6 software, it lost the set up wizard and the global file to start with was not close at all. I ma on the forum and have had great help from them. One member and I have texted, emailed and spent several hours on the phone talking. He has been to Holley EFI school and had taught me a lot about how it works and what to look for and adjust. It is a process and I am just not there yet. My wife is driving the truck and loving it, so that is a plus.
I am on this page, I have an HP system.

https://forums.holley.com/forum/holley-efi/hp-efi

HP Wizard Tuning Issues thread.

 

Check out this post in this much older thread titled "308 Weber to TWM throttle body and electromotive": https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147242725/ -- user cavallo_nero posts his spark and AFR maps for his Electromotive-powered 308. You should be able to plug these numbers in to your Holley software and get pretty close. The Holley software should be able to easily hit these AFR targets for you.