Anti-seize and Threadlocker confusion

The red threadlocker is for bolts you never want to come out ever again, you have to use heat to get them off. The blue threadlocker is for critical bolts that can't loosen but you may need to remove in the future. The silver anti-sieze is for bolts you routinely have to service but are subject to the elements. The copper anti-sieze is for bolts you may need to remove in the future which are subject to heat.

Use the copper for all exhaust components, the silver for such stuff as shock mounting bolts, the blue for such stuff as alignment shim bolts and the red for such stuff as the.....well, I never use the red.

It is generally considered to leave the wheel bolts dry. Threadlocker makes them difficult to remove and anti-seize may make them loosen on their own.

 

Good summary from Peter. Generally agree with him. Take the red, put it away and never touch it. It's really meant for certain internal engine components when you are doing a rebuild. You should not use the blue on any bolts unless the shop manual indicates that you need to use a thread locking compound.

As for anti-seize, there is some controversy whether to use it on wheel bolts or not. I always have (going on 40 years now), and have never lost a wheel bolt as a result. If you torque your wheel bolts to spec, you should be fine. Especially if you don't change the wheels or rotate them frequently, putting a little anti-seize on will make it possible to remove them the next time you have to. Also, I put anti-seize on the mating surface between the wheels and the hubs. The dissimilar metals tend to weld themselves together (corrode is more like it), and anti-seize will avoid the horror of unbolting a wheel and then not being able to get it off the hub (been there -- it's not fun). It's also a good idea to use a little anti-seize or motor oil on the threads of your spark plugs. Makes it easy to get them out too. Otherwise, you should not use anti-seize on bolts unless its called for in the service manual. You don't want components in the suspension, etc. working loose on you. Most experienced mechanics know when to anti-seize and when to Locktite. And when in doubt, leave it out.

My $.02.

Steve

 

I used Loctite blue on flywheel bolts.I used Loctite red on dry sump fittings on advice from Norwood -- more of a paste, it would seal against any leakage.
BTW, heat melts all the stuff when you need to get it off.

Another (peripheral) comment is one of (nut and bolt) metal choice. Stainless has little place on a car in any area subjected to heat -- it tends to gall up. Use brass nuts on exhaust fittings.
Philip

 

I've always used the copper anti-seize on spark plugs as well. Those aluminum heads seem like they can strip fairly easily.

 

Anti sieze will effect the torque reading on your lug bolts.

The specified torque is developed assuming a certain cooefficent of friction between the thread surfaces. Between the friction of the threads and the stretching of the bolt due to the axial force a torque reading is measured.

Anti sieze will reduce that friction. Therefore at the same torque- with and without anti seize -the bolt with anti seize will be stretched farther and have a higher stress level. It is possible that the bolt or stud could fail.

I would only use anti sieze when bolting disimilar metals or when heating is involved.

I would only use loc-tite if specifed. Typically loc-tite is used if vibration or safety is the issue.

All other fastener threads should be clean as possible and lightly oiled. This will match what the designer had in mind when he specifed the torque values.

 

I would only ammend that to say I would follow the manufacturers recomendations for fastener preperation.

Ferrari, especially on the late models has a different take on every fastener and it can mean fastener failure if the correct methodology is not used.

 

Oil will affect the torque reading as well