Tom was VERY HELPFUL with a vent window and frame that I needed. I don't like to bug him for little stuff, but.... Tom, if you're out there, do you have.............. Nah, he's a busy guy with bigger projects. Dave
Rubber - trunk seals, window seals, etc, total about $1300. I'm out of pocket on this because I can't expect the insurance to pay for it, but may as well renew it all while the car is apart. DM[/QUOTE] Dave, dont know whether or not your interested but here in the UK i just bought, Door seals, boot seals, window glass channels all as per original ( unless somebody had previosly replaced those on my car with NOS ) All for the princely sum of £65.31 which includes 17.5% Tax ! What do you think of that? If any body is interested i will post the web address
Dave, dont know whether or not your interested but here in the UK i just bought, Door seals, boot seals, window glass channels all as per original ( unless somebody had previosly replaced those on my car with NOS ) All for the princely sum of £65.31 which includes 17.5% Tax ! What do you think of that? If any body is interested i will post the web address[/QUOTE] Sure. Post away. I can always send all the stuff back to Dennis McCann. DM
Post away. I can always send all the stuff back to Dennis McCann. DM[/QUOTE] Its www.automobiletrim.com The Automobile Trimmings Company Stonebridge Works Cumberland Road Stanmore Middlesex HA7 1EL Tel +44 (0)20 8204 8242 Fax +44 (0)20 8204 0255 Obviously they cannot supply specialist things like the windshield rubber etc. Regards Graham.
I'll ask the paint shop this week and let you know, I have put my trust in these guys to use the best possible materials afforded based on the insurance company, and my additional cash in. IF an upgrade to paint that the insurnace won't pay for is in order, I'm sure Mike and I will talk about it. (Mike is the owner at Delphais Collision.) DM
Dave, I've been following this thread for some time with much interest because I too have a dime-sized dent in the paint, just above the front grille. Two high-end bodyshops have told me much the same as yours - match and blend is an option but there's no guarantee it won't show later! It's my choice at this point. Mine isn't a show car so that's not the issue. I just want it to look good! If you're doing a bare-metal repaint, are they removing all the glass, including the rear? I'm told there is a technique now that allows them to lift and fold back the rubber so paint can be applied underneath rather than up to the rubber. When painting is completed the rubber, in theory, snaps back into place without any trace of a paint line. This may work good with new rubber but how about 30 year old rubber? I'd be curious to know what your paint guys say about this! Thanks, Bill
Bill. My car has a couple of layers of paint on it. Also, painting over lacquer isn't a very good idea as sooner or later the lacquer will craze or crack, and anything put over it will do the same. (At least that is what several folks have told me.) We're taking all the windows out, replacing the rubber when we're done. That includes front windshield and back window, which I'm told is not a job for someone who doesn't know how to take it out. Don't know about rolling the rubber back, I guess that could be done. Dave
If you don't mind saying, how much are you paying for the complete paint job, and also, the answer to what kind of paint/system you are using is welcome too. I have a 72 Dino that I may want to do a bare metal paint. One thing is I want to make certain that it is a real Ferrari color (whatever 'real' means) and that I get that show car finish. tony
AKZO NOBEL SIkkens Base and clear coat http://search.akzonobel.com/ or http://www.sikkens.net/default.asp?sid=65394 Don't have an exact number, but it breaks down like this so far: Paint - about $13K-15K. (That includes stripping, filling, sanding, etc.) Rubber trim pieces - $1500-$2000 That's all window and windshield seals, new window felts, every gasket for the trunk, hood, and engine compartment. In other words, every piece of rubber or felt on the car, plus the labor for some of it to be replaced. Windshield and rear window are on the insurance co, rest is on me. All parts on me, as they thought we should re-use the 30 year old rubber. Additional work - Some metal work for a couple of rust bubbles and a rusted out interior passenger window frame. Labor cost an as yet to be determined, but the parts were about $700 from Tom Shaughnessy. Going to re-cover the dash with some NOS mousehair that I got, vintage 1983 Ferrari factory stuff (still had the factory tag on it) that cost under $200. Figure a grand in labor for that. (NO, THIS INSURANCE CO. IS NOT PAYING FOR THIS!!!) I'll update details as they develop. DM
Finally, insurance company has come through, and work has begun in earnest at Delphais Collision. Here are a few pix, in no particular order, although I'll try to post in semi-chronologial sequence. Car has, for the most part, been stripped and temporarily primed. As it is being stripped by hand, they have put on a temp primer to avoid rust as the work progresses. However, as you can see, the tin worm beat them to it on the doors and rockers. there was also considerable fill done to the doors, and rear at some time in the car's life. Windows, seats, interior and all glass and lenses are now off the car, and the body work will begin in earnest next week. I'll post some more pix after I visit Monday. DM Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If it were my Dino; I would hold off on painting anything. I definetly would put something over the bare metal area to protect it from rusting - definetly. Give myself time to cool down, cause this is where haste makes waste, and research my options. At the very least I would try to avoid the WHOLE fender being sprayed. Treat this as an area that small enough to be professionally repaired. Maybe, research a Ferrari restoration shop, one that has a reputation and experience in this matter. But I would NOT spray the whole fender, just concentrate on an area just beyond the damage and blend it. Just my approach, if it were mine.
Well, I guess it would have made sense to go through the whole post. Good luck!! Cant wait to see it.
OOPS. I would have liked to do just that, (a good repair) but as it turns out, it probably was time to address the tin worm that had been carefully hidden, as opposed to properly repaired anyway. DM
Holy cow, once the paint came off there is all kinds of interesting stuff to fix! UGH! I'll bet that's exactly what my 308 looks like If I were to strip the paint. (GOD, don't give me any reason to do THAT! I don't want to KNOW.) Birdman
I don't think the repair cost is that out of line. I had a rear ender where the front of the Spyder slide into an Accura (it was low impact) and the repair worked topped out at $15k and it was all taken care of by the insurance with no hesitation. It probably helps to be an attorney when you make these claims. The shop elected to weld new metal work rather than bondo which had been there before. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We expected some issues. There was some rust in the window area that alerted us that there might be other problems. I guess I should have put a magnet to the door when I bought it, but we had no idea there was much fill in the doors. But, I'm picking up that part of the tab, along with new rockers. The real problem was that 25 year old paint is hard to match, and there's no break in the metal to blend to. However, the work progresses nicely, and I'm sure by spring the car will look great for the FCA meet in Virginia. With the gearbox getting a rebuild, even that will be significantly improved. DM
Turned out pretty nice. 99.5 points at the last regional FCA concours, and the judge asked me what to deduct for!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login