Alternator not charging... | FerrariChat

Alternator not charging...

Discussion in '365 GT4 2+2/400/412' started by Joe Bergmann, Oct 26, 2006.

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  1. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

    Oct 24, 2005
    50
    Shoreview, Minnesota
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    Joe Bergmann
    #1 Joe Bergmann, Oct 26, 2006
    It appears that the alternator on my 1978 400GT isn't working the way it should. Is this a common problem? Also, does anyone have a good source for replacement or rebuild? It is the stock alternator.

    Thanks for any help.

    Joe Bergmann
     
  2. Ken

    Ken F1 World Champ

    Oct 19, 2001
    16,078
    Arlington Heights IL
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    Kenneth
    #2 Ken, Oct 26, 2006
    Look in your local phonebook for starter/alternator rebuild shops. Take it out of the car and give it to them. New bearings, VR, diode pack, brushes etc. will run $80-$120. Tell them it's from a Fiat but these guys can be smart. I had my Lotus alternator rebuilt and he knew it came from an early 70's British sports car. He said he did another Europa alternator a while back. Amazing...

    BTW, if you can source the parts from eBay or other place, it's a DIY job. Chances are it's just the VR but best to change everything. When I blew out my VR after the rebuild from stupidity, I did it myself with $19 in parts (complete kit) and felt like an idiot that I paid someone $110 the first time.

    Ken
     
  3. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

    Oct 24, 2005
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    Shoreview, Minnesota
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    Joe Bergmann
    #3 Joe Bergmann, Oct 26, 2006
    I was hoping it wasn't such a big deal. I can get the thing out easily enough. Hopefully I can find someone who will let me see what they are doing or show me what they did so I can learn about it... I might just get brave and get a new voltage regulator and pop it in myself!

    Joe
     
  4. Ken

    Ken F1 World Champ

    Oct 19, 2001
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    #4 Ken, Oct 26, 2006
    I don't know about Ferrari alternators but all if it's a "4 wire" type, it should be like mine. There are only two tricks to it. One is to realize you need a long paperclip to hold the spring loaded brushes down on reassembly; my rebuild kit even came with an appropriate wire. The other is to realize two of the screws that hold the VR down are insulated and one isn't; be sure you don't mix up which is which!

    If you get yours apart and can't put it together again feel free to email me and I'll help you out.

    Ken
     
  5. simonc

    simonc Formula Junior

    Nov 1, 2003
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    Simon Campbell
    #5 simonc, Oct 28, 2006
    Just a thought, as you don't say what the symtoms are - Is the warning light in the ammeter working OK? Is it on with the ignition turned on but with the engine not running. If not the bulb may have blown and, believe it or not, this will stop the alternator from charging the battery.

    Simon
     
  6. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

    Oct 24, 2005
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    Joe Bergmann
    #6 Joe Bergmann, Oct 29, 2006
    I will check out the light. Didn't even know there was one there. I haven't seen it so it could very well be burned out! Thanks for the info!

    Joe
     
  7. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

    Oct 24, 2005
    50
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    #7 Joe Bergmann, Oct 29, 2006
    No light! None. I'm pretty sure the car is all stock, but it's possible the gauges have been changed out. The manual says there should be a light there, but there isn't.

    Sorry I didn't elaborate earlier regarding the symptoms. I hear a consistent, very distinct, series of 'crack' sounds as the engine is idling. Sounds a lot like sparking. I can use a stethoscope and pinpoint the noise to the alternator. It tends to settle down after the car has warmed up. Also, I measured the voltage at the battery at idle, 11 volts. Finally, I do remember, vaugely, seeing the amp gauge fluctuating pretty wildly lately.

    I just replaced the battery yesterday and have a new alternator on the way. I will also look at the wiring to confirm I have good connections. I am thinking about rewiring the whole car over the long Minnesota winter...
     
  8. simonc

    simonc Formula Junior

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    Simon Campbell
    #8 simonc, Oct 30, 2006
    I would take out the panel with teh ameter in it and check for that light. On a 400 this light signals teh alternator to charge teh battery. Might be different in a 365 GT4 though.

    The crackling sound is the Gates fan belt that drives the alternator. Don't know why it makes this noise, which usually disappears when hot. Some say it has something to do with humidity in the cold air.
     
  9. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

    Oct 24, 2005
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    #9 Joe Bergmann, Oct 30, 2006
    Thank you to Ken and Simon for your input! I would never have thought a belt would make that noise! I will be looking for that light as soon as I get a chance to dig in, maybe this weekend. I also will look at the rest of the wiring and see what I see. It's nice to have your help!

    Joe
     
  10. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

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    #10 Joe Bergmann, Nov 5, 2006
    Well, I looked behind the gauge cluster yesterday. Guess what I found, an empty bulb socket! A quick trip to the local car parts store and $2.00 later and viola, my charging system works! My gauges even seem to be reading correctly. Thanks to Simon for the help! Just goes to show, if you buy an old car, you've got to confirm everything is right at some point.
     
  11. Ashman

    Ashman Three Time F1 World Champ
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    #11 Ashman, Nov 6, 2006
    This blows me away. Why on earth would any engineer design a system this way?

    John
     
  12. Joe Bergmann

    Joe Bergmann Karting

    Oct 24, 2005
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    Shoreview, Minnesota
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    Joe Bergmann
    #12 Joe Bergmann, Nov 6, 2006
    During my research into this subject, it turns out this design is pretty common. I agree about the craziness of it though. How would you know if the bulb burned out? The only time you think the system isn't working is if the light is on! But, hey, now we know!
     
  13. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    #13 Steve Magnusson, Nov 6, 2006
    They added another dedicated wire in later models to get around this subtle failure (i.e., to not rely on the voltage from the bulb). I guess they thought that the pilota might actually know that the warning light should go "on" with the key and "off' with the engine operating -- bad assumption ;)
     

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