Advice and Assistance Requested in Buying First 308

Ferrari of Washington is a good shop to do a pre purchase inspection
matching engine/trans #s are important

you Must get a full set of maintenanc e records, knowing when the last major service & when the timing belts were last changed is very important as this is an $6000 service and you should subtract that from the asking price if the seller has no proof

Also getting tools & the jack w the car is important

The 308 is a good strong car, the only major weakness I found was that the rear stub axles need to be upgraded becus the existing ones will snap if you install modern sticky tires & take it on the track

Also the transmission sometimes gets stuck in false neutral & wont engage. This isnt a big deal & a mechanic can fix it easily, its just annoying

 

After much deliberation when I was getting a 308, I decided on a Euro QV. I liked the fact that they were lighter and quicker. THe fuel injection and four valve heads were a plus for me. I also liked the big front spoiler. I thought that the Euro back end without the big US valance was a bit untidy but overall the Euro was a better car.

I had it for 5 years and it was great. It never let me down, and always performed flawlessly. I think that doing my homework on the car paid off. The car had a full service history, all docs (EPA/DOT), as well as books and tools. I bought from a private party and got a very good feel for the guy and his ability to take care of the car. That car wasn't the fastest car that I have owned, but it was one of the best looking..........I still miss it.

From a service perspective, it will be less expensive to service than the newer cars that have to have the engine removed to do the belts. I did alot of my own work on the 308 and it was pretty straight forward.

It wasn't the cheapest car around, but like I always say....you get what you pay for. With Ferrari's, as anything else...buy the best that you can afford, do your homework............but most of all...........have fun and drive!! Good luck. Ciao.........Dino

 

308's don't have matching numbers anyway. No worries there.

Carb 308's are prone to rust, mostly in bottom of doors and rockers.

Good history, records and a PPI are your best assurance.

Dave

 

I don't know how your fixed for cash. If it is an issue make sure it DOES NOT
have 390 wheels. I was ignorant about wheels. I was told the one I bought
had 15" wheels but when it came time to replace the tires (just after I bought it- the 30,000 service was done in 1989 - I bought in Jan 2005
with 39950 on it- the tires were over 10 years old).
Another item is that the timing belt behind the AC unit had never been serviced. I wanted the belts done as part of me buying he car. The seller agreed but he had never seen a belt fail because of age. He told me I was right to have them changed because he 1 behind the AC was worn and close to failure. When he bought the care he called the Ferrari Dealership where the 30,000 had been done and they assured him BOTH belts were
done at that time.
My 2 cents is that I would go injected, but since you have a access to
Ferrari mechanics carbs might work for you.
Another thing you have to consider with (CORRECT ME IF I AM WRONG) with
carbed 308 they DON'T electronic ignition systems. That means points and there are 2 of everything one set for each bank of 4 cylinders( I know the injected cars 2 electronic systems also).
Finally if you just want the 308 looks (like I do) consider an 81 or 82 they don't carry quite the premium of the Q.V. or a carbed car in the same shape.
hope this helped
Stephen

 

Well, the answers to some of these depend on whether you're looking at an early carb'ed car injected or injected/QV. The big thing with a Ferrari seems to be to buy one that is in good shape to start and has documented maintenance. You can buy a 308 for $20K, but it's going to $need and $need and $need. I found one nice 85 308 for $44K, and it had service records -- but they were all from Biff's Arco station or similar...

I'm shopping the later 308 QVs - '84-'85 only. They have less fussy emissions equipment than the earlier ones - single cat and O2 sensor instead of dual cats with an air pump on the '83 QV's. Rust proofing started in earnest with the '84 model year cars. I've seen rust - in addition the places you mentioned - near the fender vents and also where water collects inside the vents behind the windows. BUT - any very well maintained/kept car is going to be better than one that isn't, regardless of year. A "bargain" is a fair price for a really well-kept car, unless you're a mechanic. If a great car comes along and it's a couple of thousand more than normal retail, I'd still buy it, based on all the junk that's available (see eBay...)

Really well-sorted (but not show car) late 308 QV's are available for $40K-$45K from dealers, less from private sellers. The '80-'82 injected cars (?) seem to be less expensive, but they suffer from low hp. Primadonna late 308's can push $50K+.

Browse the Technical forum on this site - people post about all the trouble spots for 308's. Fuse boxes are real common, as are electrical issues involving bad ground connection.

On a test drive/inspection, I pay attention to all the little things that I can test without a mechanic - power windows, heat/air, turn signals, tools/jack/spare present, gauges working, lights retracting, etc. - because in a Ferrari there are no little things (well, I exaggerate - a little). I would leave the basic engine health determination to a compression/leakdown test performed by a qualified mechanic. $300-$500 for a thorough PPI isn't too much.

It's easy to disconnect the odometers in these, so in addition to records from reputable dealers I would look around at the pedals, seat bolsters and other things that show wear based on use, to see if the odometer reading is in the ballpark.

Finally go look at and drive a few cars. First time I drove a 328 I thought the gearbox was bad because it wouldn't go into 2nd while cold - well, turns out that's normal or at least very common. You need a point of reference. The steering is supposed to be heavy, but if you compare it to a Porsche you're going to think it's broken when it may be fine. Etc.

Good luck. I've been searching for 5 months - may be getting closer, but it was a lot more work than I thought.

 

All good stuff..... PLEASE, please get yourself a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a reputable mechanic. He will be your eyes and ears when it comes to what's up with your new toy. Also remember this is a 20-plus year old car. Not a new toyota or honda. It will break. Enbrace it and make it your own. If you can wrench your own car you can save a butt-load of money. Carb cars are great. They have the highest horsepower of all the 308 series. And they sound amazing. QVs have all the lessons learned from almost 10 years of making this particular model. Injected cars can be fun also if quick acceleration is not your priority. Everything before late 1983 will NOT have any rust proofing. This was a big factor for me as I passed up an otherwise beautiful low mileage Blue 82 Euro GTS because of rust. Not a big deal when you're buying a beater Chevy. More substantial when your spending $25K plus for rolling artwork. Euro cars are really the way to go for the complete 308 experience in all years produced. As stated before, buy the best car you can afford. Italian auto makers seemed to take all their cues from British-Leyland when it come to electrics. Be particularly mindful to inspect the fuel lines in your 308.... they have been problematic as they age and have sent many a 308 back to Enzo for a family reunion.

good luck

 

If you can work on a Triumph, and can do suspension and electrical work, you can do your own PPi on the car, especially a early 308, as really its a simple car. But be sure and ask questions, and study both a workshop manual, and a parts book, and have them available when your doing the inspection. I would also collect photos online of simular cars, and use them to compare your subject car. Dont be alarmed at the points ignition or it being double, its basically two 4 cylinder inline engines. Besides, if its twice the car, shouldnt you enjoy twice the fun along with twice the headaches?

Some words of advice though, do both a compression test, AND a leakdown test, and fully understand how to "read" them. DO NOT think of buying a car without that unless its a beater car you can get for $15K. Look as deep into every nook and cranie as possible looking for both damage as well as rust. I own a 77 GTB I picked non-running, and it has no real rust anywhere. You can find others. The body should be as good as you can find though, as body work and painting can almost exceed a good engine overhaul. Especially if you do the engine work yourself!

Whats it worth? If the engine runs, but poorly, but the car is great otherwise, probably $20K. Needs bodywork too? $10-15K, but really, you wont find a 308 about anywhere in any condition for $10K. Its worth more than that in parts. Good car with good engine 30-50K miles but dubious or missing records? $25K, Cars better than this are obviously going to be more. I would seriously consider an above average car with good interior with a poor running engine, over a great running car with records needing paint or with other issues. Interior as well, should be in good shape, as its very expensive if its not.

Where is it going? I think that the carbed 308's will eventually surpass the 328 in value, and at some point I feel they will surpass not only the 348, but the 355 as well. Time will tell that story, wont it?

 

*Any* mods are "unoriginal" and thus make it a non-concours car. But if concours isn't your priority, the suspension can benefit greatly from updating. There are many threads here on FChat you can see on that topic via the search function. My own recent one is at www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39712

 

You should probably consider the later models for better reliability and rust resistance. I forget the year they started rustproofing, but I think it was 1983. People have varying opinions on the styling differences between the models, but most agree that either the ealiest 308 carb versions or the latest 308 4valve versions have the best performance. One thing to consider is the age will affect amny components and look for one with great condition or recent service for items that deteriorate.
BT

 

You're more of a mechanic than I am, so this may be obvious to you, but...

From what I've been told by a couple of Ferrari mechanics, the carb'ed cars are more prone to fuel leaks and fires, backfiring and so on.

OTOH, they do sound great and have decent power. If you can tune carbs, and don't have the kind of emissions testing we have in California, that might be an option. To my ear, the injected cars still sound wonderful - maybe not the drama of the carbs, but less fuss.

On any 308, if I didn't know the fuel lines had been replaced (receipt) I would have it done right away. Apparently engine fires are rare on the injected cars, but any fuel leak near a hot exhaust can't be a good thing.

 

For the record, my '78 carbed 308 GTS passed Calif. smog test with flying colors recently. But first, I took it to my tech for a pre-smog tune-up. IMO, if a carbed 308 is mechanically sound, has all the emission equipment it came with, and is properly tuned, it will pass California smog tests.

There are those that say only drive 12 cylinders. Others say only drive 4 or more Webbers! Oh yes, the previous owner did replace all the gas lines, and I do carry a fire extinguisher.

 

I spent 18 months looking and learning, and not being a mechanic - finding mechanics to talk to/work with/respect was my most important step. Any car can be fixed, and hopefully even for less than the purchase price, with the right advice. I'd want to buy any Fcar with an experienced expert at my side. And know who to call on day 2 if it made a strange noise that might be ok, or may be a big problem.

I agree with the comments stated - the best bargain is the one with the lowest pain and least total cost. There are very very few true bargains in the Ferrari world. What trade-offs and risks do you want to take? I saw one "bargain" that only needed $30k worth of work to bring it within the same parking lot of a car asking $30k more and no stories.

 

After 6 months of looking I spent 33k on a very very nice low mileage 77 308GTB. I will put another 2k in it with me doing the work to fix the bugs that have come up. Then of course I need to upgrade the 14" wheels to 16", thats another 2k at least. I'd say wait for a lower mileage 308 unless u're prepared to spend 4-5k on incidentals. Every part for a 308 seems to be normal price times five! $350 distributor caps, $2500 exhaust systems, $400 rotors, $75 valve cover gaskets, $60 thermostats, $600 water pumps, $1200 windshields, $100 keys and the list goes on & on!
Now of course if u've only budgeted X dollars for this toy & X dollars buys this car and no others then BUY! BUY! BUY! cause there ain't no substitite for a red Ferrari!
Bill

 

Seems like a LOT of "stuff" going on on that car. I would be curious as to what you offered. I would offer 23K for it (unless the guy was asking 28K or something and it would insult him). Otherwise I just wouldn't offer.

Not an expert but am in the same boat you are in. I am looking also for a 308/328/348.

 

Ditto!

 

As you search for 308s, you may or may not be aware that some of the US early injected 308s (I am not positive of all the years, but 1981 for sure), had a very high oil consumption rate. The owners manual even said that the oil consumption rate could be 250 miles per quart of oil "under sporting use." Because 200 miles per quart is even possible, you should try to get the seller or selling dealer to certify to you what the oil consumption rate has been for the car. Ferrari did replace some of these engines under warranty, but don't find out the hard way if you are looking at one of these early injected cars. The cause may have been soft rings. Others may want to weigh in on this matter.

 

1977 Ferrari 308GTB serial number *20433* build date, November 1976.
This is a very early steel bodied car, as most of the 1976 308GTB’s were fiberglass.

Car has a clean Title, jack, tools kit and service records. I am the 3rd owner.


Specs and what has been done:

1) new Ferrari QV radiator.
2) New Ferrari QV radiator cooling fans
3) New cooling fan relays
4) VW 180 degree temp switch upgrade
5) New Ferrari oem air horns
6) Front steering, suspension and brakes were all redone in the early 1990’s, car had only been driven 3500 miles since rebuild when I purchased it in 2004.
7) New Ferrari black Connolly leather seats with red piping and red horses sewn into head rests as per Ferrari QV / 328
8) New Ferrari Wilton Wool carpets.
9) Custom made Wilton Wool floor mats with large red horses sewn in.
10) Car has bee upgraded to glass fuses from the old style plastic fuse boxes. All lights and electric are bright and work well.
11) Power window motors have been rebuilt.
12) Cd player installed
13) Extra a/c power outlet installed for radar detector or cell phone recharger.
14) Fire prone dash rheostat in dash has been bypassed . ( standard 308 technical modification) dash lights are crisp and bright at night. New Sylvania bulbs installed.
15) Timing belts, timing belt tensioners, timing belt tensioner bearings ( belt service ) was performed by Andy Green Racing 912 748 5737 on 11/22/04 cost was $1953.41 clutch was adjusted. Valves did not need adjusting.
16) I have replaced both distributor cam seals, gaskets as well as checked the advance weights and timing in accordance with the maintenance manual.
17) Replaced plugs, wires cleaned caps and rotors, installed new QV type plug extenders.
18) Air pumps were removed and put in a box.
19) Air-conditioning was in operable when I got the car, but all hooked up. The a/c compressor and rear lines are off the car in a box.
20) Car has USA spec ANSA exhaust
21) Stock airbox comes with the car, with new oem Ferrari air filter. I have installed individual K&N carb air cleaners from Pierce Manifolds.
22) Original front amber turn signal lenses will be reinstalled. I have installed Euro turn signal lenses.
23) Almost all of the cooling and fuel lines have been replaced by me in the last few months. I have put over 1600 miles on this 308gtb, more than 3x what I put on my 78308GTS. Car has been extremely reliable.
24) I rebuilt the right rear cv axle, with new inner and outer ( very expensive) wheel and hub bearings. Left side has not been done, but makes no noise.
25) Rear suspension has been rebuilt once since new ( 1976) but ball joints and A-arm bushings look like the may need to be done soon. ( car drives fine)
26) 4 new Kumho tires with Goodyear road hazard warranty and lifetime balance. They are speed rated to 112 ? MPH. I DO NOT RACE OR TRACK MY CARS. Do not exceed the speed rating.
27) WHAT THE CAR NEEDS:
28) Car is 28+ years old and is sold as is where is. There are a few small rust bubbles along the left rear side marker light. No rust is visible in the rear trunk. Rest of the car is clean with signs of an old ( 1980’s) factory red repaint with correct Lacquer paint. No accident damage or repairs are known to me or are evident. Paint is very nice and very shinny.
29) Car has new wipers and wiper motors.
30) Glass is all original and excellent.
31) Rear hatch hold up prop rod is broken, I have been using a piece of wood as the part is on backorder. (?)
32) The dealer that sold the car new in California blacked out the 5 spokes on the wheels, including the full size spare in the front bonnet. This is original and correct for the car. The wheels are inch pattern( tires are cheap to replace) as opposed to the metric wheels, which cost a fortune to get tires for.

This is a very nice Ferrari. I drive it in 500pm traffic, early in the morning, late at night with no worries. Payment is cash or bank wire transfer. Car and title will be held until funds clear my bank. Transport and insurance are the buyers responsibility. I will work with the towing company as best as I can when the car is to be picked up.
Michael M. , Portwentworth Ga 31407 912 441 2637

 

i posted that because i have had nothing but dreamers and wanna be rappers call me about the car. Ferrariads is great, i had a bunch of hits. the 77 911 Porsche sold for $4000 Saturday. the Marrone 78 308 GTS was wrecked with frame damage and it sold for $22,000 last summer, and had people who were lined up to buy it if the " first guy " did not buy it. car sold the first day it hit the Autotrader to the first guy who called. the 77 GTB seems to want to stay .

my master plan : i want a 308GT4, a Lotus Esprit Turbo SE, and a Lambo Jalpa. the GTB needs to go. guess i have " commitment " issues with cars ....... .

 

If you decide to have a car inspected in the NE, take it to Sport Auto by Bill Pollard (in Conneticut)- he will give you more information han you could want on the car and is a great person help you buy your first one. He does a compression/leak-down test and is very reasonable on rates. Let me know if you have any questions.

Dom

 

great deal on the car, i am sure you will be happy with it "warts" and all. you must share pics with us when you have the time best, Michael M.