A question of paint (engine block) | FerrariChat

A question of paint (engine block)

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by DavidDriver, Aug 17, 2006.

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  1. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

    May 9, 2006
    4,424
    Grass Valley, CA
    Full Name:
    David Driver
    I've really resisted posting this, because the topic has been discussed so much, and I don't want to be categorized as on of those who fail to use the "search" function.

    But (and I've read all of the articles on paint) the question about how best to finish the engine block vs. the cam-cover(s), belt-cover(s) and intake-manifold(s), is extremely scant. Since most focus is on those items and not on the block.

    I've read about detailing the block. Some use Simple Green and a/or some kind of grease cleaner to "clean" the block. Other's prefer an aluminum cleaner such as Mag Cleaner or some other phosphorus based acid compound to clean the aluminum.

    The former will eventually erode many types of paint. The later will remove most ("or most of" the) paints upon the first application and probably make a huge mess as well.

    If the engine is left bare aluminum and cleaned with the acid, then it will remain fairly nice looking. But the acid will affect other items, like the cam cover(s), belt-cover(s) and intake manifolds (if you paint those). It will also eat cloth covered fuel hoses rather quickly. Ask me how I know! (my Alfa... but I still use it on my Alfa..:rolleyes: ).

    So what's left is to paint the block. Or leave the engine (all) aluminum, In my humble opinion. And since I'd like to paint he cam-covers and belt-covers, I think it's probably best to paint the block too.

    So the question is:

    What is the best method and material to use to accomplish this? And what I'm curious to know is: What have others (YOU for instance) done?

    Thanks a bunch!

    David.


    PS: I was thinking of the red or black or a combo of both, in wrinkle paint for the cam-covers and belt-covers. Aluminum wrinkle paint for the intake runners, like on the TR's. Then the block should be,,,,,,???? Hi-temp VHT in an Aluminum finish? Any recommendations on a brand, type or color of paint?

    Also, I get the feeling from reading the articles (here and on tomyang) that the Eastwood black is the most authentic but takes a very L-l-l-ooooooooooong time to dry. And that the VHT has the wrong color red. True? Great :rolleyes: choices...

    Also.... (no no no... just kidding... I'm realy am finished retro-adding to this... :D)
     
  2. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

    May 9, 2006
    4,424
    Grass Valley, CA
    Full Name:
    David Driver
    Well, 50 views and no response. Hmmmmmm

    Does that mean I'm "on the right track"?
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    36,755
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
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    Brian Crall
    Ferrari did not paint the V8 blocks. My vote would be to get it clean and leave it bare.
     
  4. PAP 348

    PAP 348 Ten Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Dec 10, 2005
    100,199
    Mount Isa, Australia
    Full Name:
    Pap
    They reckon painting engine blocks black help with cooling. Funnily enough.....:p Have been told so many times by the big block V8 crew who all suffer overheating issues. Although it could be a myth also. :)
     
  5. Harmonyautosport

    Harmonyautosport Formula Junior

    Apr 28, 2006
    683
    New York
    Have a machine shop clean it for you, it will look brand new and dont paint it.
     
  6. JCR

    JCR F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 14, 2005
    10,767
    H-Town, Tejas
    The proper way to clean the block would be chemically stripping it using a dip tank. The problem is that there are a lot fewer places that do this because the chemicals are hazardous waste. Finding a place in California will be even more difficult.

    From a concours standpoint you really don't want to use media blasting because it opens up the pores of the casting at a microscopic level. The casting will be lighter color than a chemically stripped casting. Its really noticable on valve covers. And never use glass beads on blocks or heads or anywhere the beads can make there way to the oil system. If you don't car about concours, how about hot water pressure wash with detergent and then OTC brake cleaner, Berrymans, etc.

    Don't use Simple Green. It etches the aluminum due to its alkalinity.

    Who do companies like Carobu, Tillack & Co. use to clean their castings?
     
  7. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 28, 2003
    42,273
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    John
    I just bought some de-greaser from Griot's that is supposed to be safe on all metals including aluminum. I'm going to get around to using it one of these days.

    I would suggest not painting anything that wasn't already painted. I'm not a purist but just like I hate painted wood, I can't see painting a metal that looks so good "naked". Why cover it up?

    If it were me (and it's obviously not!) I would get it all cleaned up and use a clear sealer or paint to keep it that way. I know Spasso has done that and it looks OUTSTANDING!!
     
  8. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,282
    Ventura, California
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    Robert Garven
    i wiped mine off with alcohol, but it takes along time and effort
     
  9. GTHill

    GTHill F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2006
    14,053
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    GT Hill
    I was on the website of a famous (seemed that way anyway) Ferrari mechanic in California named Eugenio. I noticed that he sent out the aluminum engine covers on a 328 to be bead blasted. I thought that it would look good, but I understand JCR's point about opening up the pores. I just found it interesting that Eugenio did it when it may not be the best way to go.

    Gene
     
  10. DavidDriver

    DavidDriver F1 Rookie

    May 9, 2006
    4,424
    Grass Valley, CA
    Full Name:
    David Driver
    There is a place that blasts aluminum, in preparation for paint, that uses aluminum oxide. I don't recall who it is that does it. But if I find out I'll post it. If it is close to me, and practical, then I may take my pieces (not the block) to be done.

    My engine is not apart. So dipping, etc. is out-of-the-question, and that's why I considered paint. I can see that at least the bell-housing on mine had been previously painted. But I do like the bare aluminum better. It's what I have on my Alfa. Maybe a clear coat of some sort, would be in order to keep the aluminum from getting oxidized from washing later. But that may have negative side effects later too.

    Thank you for all the great advice. For awhile there, I thought no one had an opinon. Glad to see I was wrong!

    =====================================

    "Watt?? F-Chadd'uz watt wit no O-pinyunz?.... 'Whad'da yuz, nutz?"
     
  11. Jdubbya

    Jdubbya The $10 Trillion Man
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    Dec 28, 2003
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    John
    Careful what you wish for. After all you know what they say about opinions right? They're just like a-holes, everybody has one and most of them stink!
     
  12. 308 GTB

    308 GTB F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Feb 7, 2002
    11,650
    New Jersey
    Full Name:
    Barry Wolinsky
    Yes, I've used alcohol-soaked gauze pads to clean mine also. It does take a bit of time as you mentioned, Robert.
     
  13. tomoshea

    tomoshea Formula Junior

    Dec 29, 2003
    541
    Ireland
    Full Name:
    Tom O'Shea
    #13 tomoshea, Aug 20, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Having used petrol and carb cleaner to remove the heavy crud off the engine block, heads etc I just used a wire brush on the end of drill to bring it back to a shining alloy metal.

    I then covered everything in Simontz 5 spoke allow wheel paint. 5-6 light thin coats .... not heavy coats!

    Very close to original finish.

    This was recommended to me by Mike Elliot in Superformance in the UK, it is what he does to all his concourse rebuilds, it is petrol and oil resistent.

    I have done about 800 miles since teh rebuild and have not head any problems anywhere.

    Heads are covered in UHT wrinke paint. Carbs are finished in Audi Silver with fuel resistent laquer on top.

    See photos here attached. FYI the bottom picture is the block cleaned and polished with the drill head but before painting, you can see the difference with the painting.

    If you don't paint the polished aluminium it will dull and you will get aluminium oxide forming fairly soon after teh job, which looks crappy, same with the head covers and cam belt covers.

    Hence why I painted!
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  14. M.James

    M.James F1 Rookie

    Jun 6, 2003
    2,721
    Worcester, MA
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    Michael.C.James
    I've never rebuild a motor in my life, but I've talked to a few who have......paint has insulating properties, and does not radiate heat well. They do NOT recommend painting the block, just keep it as clean as possible (dirt/oil also have insulating properties). Painting is like wrapping your engine block in a blanket. Fine if your vehicle spends more time in Concourse shows than on the road.
     
  15. tomoshea

    tomoshea Formula Junior

    Dec 29, 2003
    541
    Ireland
    Full Name:
    Tom O'Shea

    Mark,

    Unless you intend to run your engine at 6000 rpm all the time and track the car I would not be concerned.

    Having said that I know of many cars that are raced and finished the same as mine with no overheating issues.
     
  16. Joe G.

    Joe G. Formula 3
    BANNED

    Dec 9, 2003
    1,109
    Los Angeles
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    Joe Gazzani

    you sound jealous
     
  17. GTHill

    GTHill F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2006
    14,053
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    GT Hill
    Jealous of what?
     

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