Dino Saga 060319___Distributor rebuild | FerrariChat

Dino Saga 060319___Distributor rebuild

Discussion in 'Corbani's Corner' started by John Corbani, Mar 19, 2006.

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  1. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
    Full Name:
    John Corbani
    #1 John Corbani, Mar 19, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Dino Saga 060319___Distributor rebuild

    At the 2004 rebuild I knew that I had a good machine shop, thought I had a good mechanic. But kept the distributor and carbs for myself. Carbs just needed exterior cleaning. Wanted to see if I could get the distributor back to stock advance curve, less the extra set of points. The mechanic ordered a lot of parts from Superformance in the UK. I looked at their web site and saw they had a distributor rebuild kit. Ordered one. Everything came packed in a sealed poly pouch with all parts nicely separated.

    Pulled the parts and was underwhelmed. Workmanship and finish was GodAwful. Kit included 2 weights, 4 springs, 4 spring cups, 4 button head spring pins and 2 flattened flanged bushings. Weights were mild steel as were the pins. Pin heads looked like they had been formed with a file. Pins rough. Cups rough. Holes in weights rough. Neither pins or cups would go in guide holes. Springs and advance bushings were fine.

    Oh well! At least there were 2 springs in each weight. Might as well see what could be done. 400 and 600 grit Wet or Dry paper smoothed things. De-burred bores. Put a true hemisphere on pin heads.

    Lubed everything and built distributor base up. Clamped base in vise and ran Tygon tubing from drive shaft to a 2500 rpm variable speed drill motor. Needed to add a little thickness to the center bushing to get total advance right at15 deg. Played with spacer washers under springs until weights just touched ID of cup at 2500 rpm. That works out to 5000 rpm at the crank and 30 deg advance. I have an oscilloscope so was able to check rpm. Weights just left center bushing at 500 rpm. Time to get serious.

    Put base in housing. Drilled and tapped rotor tip 0-80. Mounted a bright LED on rotor with an 0-80 x 1/8” screw holding anode. Slid LED ground wire under rotor spring. Attached degree scale, rotor contact to housing. Jumped points to rotor contact. Made small changes to spring spacer washers until advance curve was pretty good. LED gives six light bands per rev that can be compared to the degree scale. You can estimate to within a degree. Power for the LED came from a 5 VDC power supply with a 200 ohm current limiting resistor in series. 20 mils when points open, 25 mils when points short LED. Poor man’s distributor machine. Do need scope or some other kind of tach.

    Pulled distributor for pics. Got it back in, no sweat. Tip: Leave plug wires in cap, remove coil wire and point wire ONLY, remove 3 distributor bolts, remove distributor noting drive alignment. Now remove cap and leave it hanging. Fast and easy.

    Pics show parts after 5000 miles. Pin heads worn. Weight bore nearest pivot had worn. Changed to old hardened pins. Left cups alone. Nicely polished now. Advance curve still OK. I see that Superformance site now says that pins are hardened. Good. Hope workmanship has improved. Every sliding surface should be polished.

    John
    .
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  2. gblue

    gblue Formula Junior

    Dec 26, 2005
    317
    Maui Hawaii
    Full Name:
    Gregg Blue
    Aloha.

    Ever considered an MSD Ignition? I was told they work well in the Dinos.....put one in a Speedster I used to have and it worked great......

    Gregg
     
  3. tx246

    tx246 F1 Veteran
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 4, 2003
    6,475
    Texas
    Full Name:
    Shawn
    i have them in my dino's and they works great. i have never had a problem with the ignition.
     
  4. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    John Corbani
    I agonized over pointless ignition until I found that I could not get electronic advance at a rational price. Points are really not a problem. I have gotten 40,000 miles on a set. Fiber rubbing block finally gives up. The advance mechanism is the problem.

    The lower cost electronic advances I found are set up for big bore USA cars and don't understand advancing all the way to 5500 RPM. They generally quit below 4000. Custom software was not an option with any of the factory techs I talked to. A complete ignition computer can be programmed to do anything but it expects additional sensors and is expensive. Decided to stay with distributor, mechanical advance and points. 180,000 miles and still running is good enough.

    By the way, the Dinoplex module was changed for a no-name long before I bought the car and has never been a problem. NGK plugs last longer than points. Platinum at first and now Iridium. Small center electrode is great for idle.

    Bottom line, no need for anything better. Ferrari did pretty good on the first try. I'll stick with a winner.

    John
     
  5. gblue

    gblue Formula Junior

    Dec 26, 2005
    317
    Maui Hawaii
    Full Name:
    Gregg Blue
    Aloha.....My factory system works great........I'll stick with it too. Dennis McCann rebuilt my drive train 13 years and 2000 mile ago. I got the car 2 months ago and put another 1000 miles on it. More I drive it the better it runs. When should I check my points? Replace rotor and condeser too like when I was a kid?

    Mahalo..Gregg
     
  6. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    John Corbani
    Condenser lasts forever; no high voltage across it. Rotor lasts forever with resistor spark plugs or resistor plug caps. Point contacts last forever; no current through them and no voltage. Oil from felt pad keeps lobes as slick as they can be. Fiber rubbing block just eventually wears out. Changing points every 8-10 years of 5,000 miles a year is not a biggie. Ignition problems are advance and plugs. NGK Iridium takes care of plugs so advance is all that's left. You have to lube it every year or so.

    Of course there is the Inate Perversity of Inanimate Objects.

    John
     
  7. Finitele

    Finitele Formula 3

    Sep 26, 2007
    1,379
    DBC
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    DIR
    Is the cap $400.00 special or normal one?

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  8. FourCam

    FourCam Formula Junior

    May 19, 2004
    409
    Loveland CO
    Full Name:
    Cameron MacArthur
    Very cool. But if you are gonna really be retro, set it up on a vintage Sun machine! It's actually fun, in a perverse, self-abusive sort of way!!! I, too, think points get an unfairly bad rap...after all, it's not the F-1 championship or something!
     
  9. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,838
    Norfolk - UK
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    Tony
    I thought the same as you, but when i did make the switch to programmable ignition system i wouldn't go back to the old set up.
     
  10. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    John Corbani
    Tony,
    Please write up your experiences. Lots of folks are like me, look at the $2,000 price tag plus installation and give up. Maybe we can learn a lot. Pictures help in so many ways but words are indispensable. Both are the best. Thanks,
    John
     
  11. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,838
    Norfolk - UK
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    Tony
    #11 TonyL, Nov 1, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi

    I wouldnt say it was easy, primarily because the instructions [or lack of them] caused alot of heartache to begin with. However i decided to take the plunge and purchased the Black Stallion programmable ignition system from Superformance UK.

    My main reason is that i wanted to get reliabilty, the 246 distributor is renowned for being a tiresome piece of kit. Incidentally the same distributor on the 308 is less troublesome, the only difference is that the engine rotates clockwise instead of anti clockwise on the 246. Why??

    I rebuilt the original a few times but could never really get the engine to run properly, always blamed the Webers for going out of tune.

    Ok the unit is expensive and i have looked at other comparable units on the market but none have the programmable ignition whereby you can set the advanced curves. They are electronically activated so no spring / bob weight mechanisms to stiffen or wear out. Timing therefore is bullet proof

    The installtion is pretty straight forward, remove your old distributor and bolt in a nice new one. This appears to be machined from solid aluminuim and made to look similar[not identical] to the old disy. The trigger is a hall effect sensor. Setting up the timing is pretty straightforward. Get 6 deg BTDC on cylinder no 3 and set the the timing marks to correspond with the marks on the rotor and casing. tighten bolts and that bit is finished.

    wiring is easy now that i have sorted out the problems. Originally the system was designed for the 308 i beleive and nobody from BSM had bothered to change the wiring diagram. They were really helpful in sorting this out though.

    All of the installtion is around the rear boot area. basically i found it easier to remove the old backplate and make a new one. That way if i wanted to revert to the old set up i could + it would look a lot neater. The attached photo shows all the components installed on this plate. It is then a simple case of mounting the plate on the existing studs and connecting up to the original ferrari loom.

    Programming is easy via the CD software you get. the unit comes pre programmed with initial advance curves set. These can be adjusted to suit your own driving style.

    There were some issues with the system, no instructions, no wiring diagram and no details on how to configure the HT leads to suit the 246. However most of that is now sorted. The ignition coil [see seperate post] was an issue but i am coming to terms that the coil just does run that hot!!

    You may not believe this but the engine runs like a dream. No spitting through the carbs, no fluffing and popping through the exhausts. MPG has increased as well.

    Starting from cold is instant and when hot a few cranks of the engine and she fires up striaght away

    So in all was it worth spending soooo much money on my little baby. You bet it was.

    I must add that i changed the starter for a higher capacity [not gear reduction] and that has transformed the car too. Coupled together it was money well spent.

    The thought of no more messing around with the old disy, points & springs etc is just perfect.
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  12. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,838
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    #12 TonyL, Nov 1, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Mounted on new plate

    The thick red cable is a screened cable which passes through the rear bulkhead with the coil HT lead and connect to the new disy.

    The other two wires connect to the tacho and ignition feed.

    The small brown box is the relay, the red cover with a switch is for selecting standard advance curves or enhanced. The small green fuse box is fitted because you take a 20amp supply from the rear of the starter motor to the relay.
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  13. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
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    May 5, 2005
    1,153
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    John Corbani
    Thanks Tony. Looks like a neat installation. What did you program for the advance curve? And the enhanced curve? Are they close to the factory? If not, where and why? Did you have a chance to get the car on a dyno to determine the curve or was it done on a track or road. Did you find any limits on the programming capability? You are the first one I have heard of who has gone all the way from distributor drive. I have heard of crankshaft triggering and that was an installation bear. Thanks again.
    John
     
  14. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,838
    Norfolk - UK
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    Tony
    Thanks John

    Originally i programmed the unit (1st curve) with the settings Ferrari give in their manual from memory these were approx.

    RPM Adv
    1000 0
    2000 8
    3000 15
    4000 20
    5000 26
    5500+ 30

    It did not like running on these settings and felt very sluggish, so started to swap things around. They are completely different and the difference in performance between the two of them is huge. Does the Ferrari set up work? No in my opinion as with all mechanical advance systems there are a lot of factors that affect the accuracy. Remember these are now electronically fired, the only in-accuracy would be the programmer

    So the advance curves i programmed into the unit (2nd curve) were as follows with 6 deg of static adv

    RPM DEGREES ADVANCE
    0 0
    800 6
    1600 14
    2400 23
    3200 26
    4000 26
    4800 26
    5600 26
    6400 26
    7200 26
    8000 26

    rev limiter set a 7200
    idle set at 850rpm

    Ran sweet and pulled well all through the rev range [up to 4800 just rebuilt the engine but it is loosen up nicely now]

    Now as i had fitted High comp pistons 10.5 :1 i did start to get slight pinking at low revs in top gear, around 2500rpm. Tried to retard things back a little but no effect. In the end i seemed to have cured the problem by getting Shell V power fuel 98RON.

    Life would have been easier if i had a rolling road but alas i haven't.....yet!! Most of the work was done on the road with a laptop plugged into the controller port

    Programming was simple and you can actually change the curves as the engine is running through each rev range.

    At idle the difference between the ferrari curves (1st curve) and remapped curve (2nd settings) was amazing. It ran so quite when i was walking back from the end of my garage i thought the engine had stalled. That was impressive

    There was a slight issue on the coil overheating and what settings to use. When i get a few minutes i am going to get it on a rolling road and try swapping the max and min dwell times to see if this reduces the coil temperature.

    Tony
     
  15. 4redno

    4redno Formula 3

    Mar 21, 2006
    1,066
    Seattle, WA
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    Keith Mitchell Wintraub
    Laptop meets Dino. Very cool.

    While we all appreciate cars restored to original spec, it's also nice to see the application of modern technology to make Dinos more usable and sustainable. As NOS/OEM parts become harder to find, going your route may become the norm.

    Cheers...Keith
     
  16. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,838
    Norfolk - UK
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    Tony
    You hit the nail on the head Keith.

    Modern technology does have a role to play. Whilst i am trying to be sympathetic to its originality, it takes second fiddle to getting 100% reliability.

    Around these neck of the woods, they take the bricks away after they have stolen your wheels. so leaving a dino stranded in the layby would be Christmas come early to some!!

    Tony
     
  17. John Corbani

    John Corbani Formula 3
    Honorary Owner

    May 5, 2005
    1,153
    Santa Barbara, CA
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    John Corbani
    Tony,
    Electronic coil drivers use the term "dwell" to indicate how long they keep voltage on the coil before letting it collapse. It takes so many miliseconds for the coil to become saturated and anything longer than that just heats the coil without generating more voltage. Try adjusting dwell down and see if coil heating changes. The time is different for each coil so I can give you no hint at to what numbers to use. If you go too low, the coil never fully charges and the car misses at speed. Having no documenttion must be a complete nightmare. Keep up the work and let us know how things go. Would be good to start a new thread on this subject. You have a unique chance to educate a lot of Dono owners. Might talk to Dave (DM_N_STUFF), one of our moderators, about copying the pictures and timing data to a new thread. Moderators can do anything if you ask them nicely.
    John
     
  18. TonyL

    TonyL F1 Rookie

    Sep 27, 2007
    3,838
    Norfolk - UK
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    Tony
    good idea John, i am happy with the thread changing as well. Its been an uphill task thats for sure. Hopefully i may be getting to the bit that goes down now!!!

    Tony
     
  19. 134282

    134282 Four Time F1 World Champ
    BANNED

    Aug 3, 2002
    40,647
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    Carbon McCoy
    Um... What is "060319"...?
     
  20. Finitele

    Finitele Formula 3

    Sep 26, 2007
    1,379
    DBC
    Full Name:
    DIR
    Date:

    2006 03 19
     
  21. jerion

    jerion Karting

    Jan 26, 2007
    51
    Plymouth, MI
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    Jeff Erion
    #21 jerion, Nov 7, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have been following this thread and thought I would just throw in my 2c worth. Having worked on various points carrying vehicles over my life, I can say that it was a good system for its time, however, the advancements in electronics have made them obsolete. I really like the upper support bearing on the distributor as that probably solves many of the problems with wavering distibutor cams. Nonetheless, the pointless system whether by Hall effect or optical trigger has tremendous advantages for longevity and accuracy of firing event. The newer systems will even provide multiple plug firing below 3K rpm. Some comments have also been made relative to complete advance control electronically which I feel is also a tremendous benefit as spring control (or vacuum) is rather crude, especially on the Dino. Energy capacity of the newer systems is also great for better fuel burn and long spark plug life. I have already modified my distributor but haven't installed it in the engine yet...lots more restoration work before that happens. Here is a picture. Good thread. I would like to see other solutions as I have time to make changes.
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