94 512TR 66,000 mile major | Page 9 | FerrariChat

94 512TR 66,000 mile major

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by JIMBO, Sep 9, 2019.

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  1. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  2. JIMBO

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    Then reconnect the smaller weatherhead hose and the throttle linkage.
    Remember, back out the screw in the end of the throttle arms, pop it over the ball on the linkage (apply lithium grease first), then gently tighten screw and insert/bend the teeny tiny cotter pin (this may take a few tries). Make sure there is no binding on linkage.
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  3. JIMBO

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    Well it's been a brutal week here in Florida with temperatures plummeting into the mid-fifties! Luckily it will be back to 80's by Thanksgiving.
    OK, back to re-assembly.
    The newly painted valve covers had one final cleaning of the inner side, with BrakeKleen and a brass brush to remove any remaining oily residue or crud. Make sure to clean the depression for the spark plug hole O-rings really well. I put a tiny amount of Loctite 518 in the depressions to hold the O-rings in place and help sealing. It cures in the absence of oxygen and remains soft in air.
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    Then place a small continuous bead on the mating surface of the cam cover and the same on the gasket. The gasket will have to be trimmed into 4 pieces. Make sure you have all the holes lined up.
    Clean the mating surface of the head and apply the gasket with loctite to the head. Carefully trim away the excess gasket material (the parts without the red bead) and apply a dab of loctite 518 to the areas where the gaskets end (common leak points).
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    Then, on goes your cam cover. I found new stainless steel crown nuts and washers on Amazon for about $6 for 50. The crown (acorn) nuts have to be tall enough to clear the bolts and the washers are 0.5 mm thick. A nice touch for little $$. How often can you say that about a Ferrari part?

    Next torque the crown nuts to 8.8 NM
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  4. JIMBO

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    Next, clean and re-install the cam end covers and the cam phase sensor. Same thing with a little coat of loctite 518. You will first have to trim flush and protruding portion of the cam cover gasket.
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    As you may recall, the first part of the cam phase sensor is held in place by three 5mm allen (hex) cap bolts. There is only one way that all the holes in the gasket and housing line up. All the rest of the covers are fastened by 8mm stainless steel nylon lock nuts. These, too were fairly cheaply found on Amazon.
    There is no gasket on the outer part of the cam phase sensor. I could not find a torque value for the 8mm nuts, but it ain't much. Wire holders will later be attached to the lower inner bolt cover studs.
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  5. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  6. JIMBO

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    Next, install the new oil hoses. I had to remove the air injector hoses for clearance (extra work, should have done those in reverse order. Oh well). First attach hose to engine, then slide hose nipple onto hose and secure to bottom of cam cover with gasket and loctite 518 (notice a pattern here?). I prefer stronger clamps than were stock for added peace of mind, but you purists do your thing. A bit of hylomar on the hose nipples makes it go on easier and seal better. Re-attach the air injector hose.
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  7. JIMBO

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    At this point I decided to do something stupid. The car was running well with no electrical gremlins. I have the Dave Helms upgraded fuse box and I have nothing but profound respect and admiration for the genius of that man. I was going to buy his gold connector kit, but I didn't want to do the ECU connectors and I had most of the tools, so I bought some of those gold plated connectors (major thanks to Tim Fulmer) and swapped out all the terminals in the engine bay. It is way easier with the wiring harness lying on the bench, and it gave me a chance to replace frayed covering and make everything pretty.

    This is how I did it. I put a dab of dielectric grease under the bottom of the boot and slid it under with a tiny screwdriver. This allowed the boot to slide down the wire pretty easily. I then drew a diagram of the connector and noted which wires go where (there are little numbers on every connector). I then use my handy-dandy terminal extractor tool ($4 on Amazon for 12 different extractors) to remove the old terminals. You stick the tool, which is only two tiny metal prongs, into the open end of the connector and push in until the tool presses down the tiny metal wings on the terminal, which then pulls out from the bottom. It sometimes takes a couple of tries and some wiggling. There is a YouTube video that shows this nicely. It's called "Ferrari 348 Gold Connector kit parts I-V)
    Then it's off with the old terminals, strip a tiny bit of insulation, crimp on the new ones and slide them back into their respective holes until they click. Give a good tug to make sure they are secure. Once all are done, double and triple check that the right color wires are in the right slots, then slide up the boot, and on to the next connector. There are something like 100 connectors in the engine compartment, so take your time.
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    I found the wires were too small for the Kline wire stripper, but the cheapo red stripper worked beautifully. You will need a ratcheting crimper set up for open barrel terminals. The Fryic crimper was $19.99 from Amazon. Nice tool.
    The 14 piece little terminal extractors were $5.48.
    100 gold connectors were $46.00 from Mouser electronics.
     
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  8. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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    Jim DeRespino
  9. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,321
    Bradenton, Florida
    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  10. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
    1,321
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    Full Name:
    Jim DeRespino
  11. JIMBO

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    Since Clyde Romero wisely convinced me to get new radiators, the old ones obviously have to come out. Before that can happen, the oil sump and oil radiator must be removed. This can be done as an intact unit.
    First tie all other hoses and battery cable up out of the way, then remove the two 10 mm nuts from the bottom of the oil radiator (the rusty ones in photo 2). There is a 3rd 10 mm nut at the top. Once this is loosened, the stud will slide right after the bottom studs are slid out of their holes.
    Then remove the two 13mm bolts from the upper and lower sump and lift the whole thing up and out of the engine compartment. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  12. JIMBO

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  13. JIMBO

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    Here you are looking at the fuel filler neck and the open plastic pipe is the duct that cools the alternator. The cheap plastic pipe ripped while taking out the engine and will need repair (replacement not available). Note the little nub just to the right of the plastic pipe. The back of the sump has a corresponding indent that rests on this.
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  14. JIMBO

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    And now seemed as good a time as any to wash the engine bay and get rid of some of the oil and grime. Many cans of Gunk engine cleaner were used. They have a new (as in more expensive) gel formula that didn't seem to work any better than the original or the foamy kind. Remember to tape all open orifices and the opening for the ECU harnesses in the firewall or you will have a very soggy passenger seat. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  15. JIMBO

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  16. Ferrari 308 GTB

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    Enzo would have been proud of you.Amazing stuff,thanks.

    Keep on driving it like you (did;)) stole it.
     
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  17. JIMBO

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    Thanks. That first turn of the key when it's all back together will be a nail-biter.
     
  18. JIMBO

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    Sorry I haven't posted, but for some reason my photos were not uploading from my I-phone to the cloud until today.
    I finished replacing all the original connectors in the engine compartment with gold terminals. A tedious but not particularly challenging task. I made sure to check and double check the position of all wires before any cutting and make written diagrams of every terminal. That all seemed to go well. There were almost 70 terminals replaced.

    Next on the hit parade was replacing the CV boots. First, remove the wheels. The axles are held in place by a 36 mm nut that is staked to a divot in the end of the axle.
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    Get a small punch or screwdriver and carefully push out the staked area. Then remove the nut with a 36 mm socket (same as used on the crank bolt)
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    Also there is a washer beneath the nut
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  19. JIMBO

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    Oct 31, 2003
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  20. JIMBO

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    Unfortunately the LH side did not cooperate. Gentle taps - nothing. Harder taps with hammer - nada. Pretty stout hits with 2.5 lb sledge - nope. All out whacks with a 5 lb sledge and an old socket covering the end of the axle - zero. In between I used a ton of PB Blaster to losten up the corrosion on the splines, but still no luck, so I am letting the Blaster soak overnight. If any of you wiser, more experienced actual mechanics have some trick to overcome this impasse, please chime in now.
     
  21. JIMBO

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    The CV kit I obtained from T Rutlands has all the parts needed to restore the CV joints including the exact right amount of CV grease.
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    First, knock off the closed engine-side cover with a hammer and screwdriver. It is pressed on and you will discard it.
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    This will reveal a large snap-ring, which, once removed will allow the CV joint and boot to slide off the end of the axle. You need to remove the boot clips first.
    Pry up the loose end of the clip or push down the little tab that sticks up and engages the hole in the strap. It then unravels. You may need to pry the boots off also. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  22. JIMBO

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    Then slide the CV joint off the axle and clean it thoroughly with some solvent like diesel fuel, etc. The old grease is mucho messy, so have a lot of towels.
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    Next, remove the straps from the outer CV joint boot, separate the boot from the CV joint and slide that CV and boot all the way down the axle and off the same side as the first joint. Clean everything, being careful not to loose any of the balls (losing your balls is never good). These are the parts you will be discarding (not the CV joint itself):
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    CV joint cleaned (no need to go crazy cleaning it as it will just be greased up again):
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    Tomorrow (hopefully) LH axle comes out and all parts are re-assembled. Oh wait, this is a Ferrari, yeah, that's probably not going to happen.
     
  23. JIMBO

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    PS, I forgot that there is a ground wire on the back of the oil sump that needs to be removed before the sump comes out.
     
  24. JIMBO

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    Well, re-assembly of the CV boots hit a snag. The boots supplied in the TRutlands kit do not fit. They are smaller than the originals and there is a rubber lip inside the big end that prevents the boot from fitting all the way down on the flange (not present on the stock units). As a result, the clip does not fit. And the smaller end does not fit into the corresponding machined groove in the axle. I will call them tomorrow and see what can be done. Has anyone else specifically replaced 512TR CV boots with success, and, if so, where did you get the parts?
    Stock boot on the right
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    Note the lip inside the new boot versus the stock one
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  25. JIMBO

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